The lens should be very sharp even at f1.8.
Common mistakes:
- Focusing on the nose instead of the eyes
- Insufficient shutter speed / not holding the camera steady
- Not using the correct focus mode (don't use continuous especially at f1.8 unless you know what you need it for)
- Getting closer to the subject than the lens can handle
- Moving after acquiring focus, making the plane of focus not what you meant it to be (ex. camera is 1cm closer or further from the subject due to swaying your body); or, subject moves slightly forward or back
- Thinking that sharpness means everything looks sharp. Sharpness is measured by what is sufficiently within the plane of focus.
Common hardware issues:
- Lenses can be defective, producing soft images at all or certain apertures
- More commonly, lenses can have focus issues (need calibration) -- hopefully your camera has in-camera calibration
Other:
- This wouldn't cause your problem, but if you shoot in Jpeg, the auto processing dictates how much the image is sharpened. If you get the wrong image from the get-go, that wouldn't be the issue. However, how you decide your Jpegs to be auto-processed in camera will change certain characteristics (ex. you can set sharpening higher, but there's trade-offs).
- If you shoot in RAW, sharpening in a program like Lightroom can be done right, and it can be done wrong. For your typical shot, you usually need to weigh noise reduction against sharpening. Insufficiently exposed shots will often appear to have less detail for a few reasons, before and after recovery.
- Poor lighting can affect a lot of things (ex. accuracy of focus). Primarily, poor lighting can make a subject less interesting in the shot, and even if you accurately record the subject, poor lighting can just end up making a shot look soft and dull.
What I'd check:
- Get the camera settings correct (focus mode, exposure, shutter speed, all that).
- Set your camera still on a sturdy surface (tables can wobble so choose a good tripod or the floor or a counter), and have a good subject to focus on (something that is still).
- Select the aperture you want to test.
- Test a few shots at 3 different distances, using properly selected autofocus: Close, medium, and somewhat far.
- As you do the test, after you fire off 3 shots of your close shot, switch to "Live View" mode, and fire off 3 more shots. Same with medium and far.
This is just a quick check that you can do in order to see what the problem is. If Live View mode produces sharp images, and regular focus doesn't, then your issue is with focus calibration (the lens isn't calibrated correctly). If both regular and live view produce unsharp images, then your issue is with the lens itself (assuming your camera works with other lenses, and you didn't make an error in conducting your tests).
Your options:
- If your lens is completely defective (calibration cannot fix it), you can get repairs from Nikon or a third party, depending on where your warranty stands.
- If your lens has calibration issues, you can also send it into Nikon. I believe they ask that you send your camera in as well, so that they can calibrate the lens to the camera (a bit of an odd practice in my opinion, if one can confirm the camera focuses fine with 4x other lenses).
- If your camera has lens calibration built in, you can make adjustments in-camera (if focus calibration is the issue). Sometimes this isn't sufficient. For example, if the lens starts focusing correctly for a week, but shifts again, then you'd probably need repairs. Or, sometimes the focus problems are so far out of the range of calibration (or a bit wacky), making in-camera calibration unfeasible.
- Depending on how the lens operates, if you disclose things, you could just sell it. I've done this with troublesome lenses and recovered most of my $$$ spent (oddly I've found buyers who don't mind certain things). I find cameras and lenses come with lots of manufacturing issues all the time... it's an unfortunate thing.