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In cases like this I shoot in raw, expose for the sky and adjust the darks accordingly in post. It's easier to bring up the darks in a photos than correct for blownout highlights.
Aren't there more info to be recovered in the highlighted areas of a RAW file ? Something about the first stop using almost half of the total data.
I usually have better results recovering a blown sky than dark areas. It's a noise feet in these dark parts.
Hi guys, I need your help on something.
I can't choose how much light the sun will give me when I travel so I have to deal with what I have when I'm there. With that said, when it's clear/sunny outside and you want to take a landscape/nature/outdoor picture, what do you do to avoid have an blown out/overexposed sky and/or an underexposed picture (With okay sky)?
Long and weird question I know but sometimes it seems I have to choose between a blown out sky or an underexposed subject. It's so bad I can't bring it back with LR5...
Is there any tricks I'm missing? Filter I could use? Help?
I'm shooting with a Sony SLTA37 (Lens doesn't matter, happen with all of them) in Aperture Priority. Lastly, I do not use any filter of any sort. ISO is kept as low as possible.
Thanks in advance for the help!
Thanks for the awesome replies guys! I would like some clarifications on some points made in your answers;
1. I understand that the GND Filter would be useful for Landscape Photography, which I like to do sometime (20% of my photography maybe?) Would the investment be worth it or I should stick with Photomatix/HDR?
2. From the link posted about the HDR (Beginner Guide) Photomatix is said to be the best. Which one? Pro, Essential, Plug-In for LR only?
3. AEB has been suggested. I understand that I'll have to play with it to make my idea of it but generally speaker, it is a good method of should I always carry my Tripod and do it manually? Thing is, I don't have that problem everywhere, so the Tripod would be unwanted weight in some situation.
4. Like stated in my first post, I pretty much alwas shoot in Aperture Priority. Someone suggested to "expose in the middle". Would that mean switching to Manual or the Exposure Compensation is enough? (Again, generally speaking as it is new stuff I'll have to test.)
This is a classic problem of photography having to do with dynamic range. The camera can record only so many levels of brightness. If the range is too great, you will lose detail in either the highlights or shadows. This is most often encountered with a bright sky and darker foreground subject. This is not an issue of lens or settings. There are no settings that can take a scene outside of the camera's dynamic range and make it fit. It's the nature of light and cameras.
As a photographer all you can do is make a choice. You can't change the dynamic range of the camera, but you can choose how you record the scene. You can choose to keep the sky and let the foreground go dark. You can choose to expose for the foreground and blow out the sky, or you can make choices that enhance the dynamic range of the capture, such as capturing a bracket of exposures that encompass the full range of the scene and then combining them in post (HDR), or using a neutral density filter to hold back the brighter part of the scene in camera. In some cases, you may be able to use an ND in software, such as Lightroom, to bring back the highlights, if you shoot RAW. Photography is all about choices.