BanditPhotographyNW
No longer a newbie, moving up!
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2013
- Messages
- 313
- Reaction score
- 85
- Location
- Vancouver, Wa
- Can others edit my Photos
- Photos OK to edit
The creepiest gnome ever lives in your photo collection.....I love it...
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So maybe instead of the B1600 I should pick up one of the white lightning 3200's would that be a better option to go with the 2 b800s and the B400? It says its 1320ws
Didn't read the whole thread, but @OP,
As an owner of basic alienbees monolights, I can confirm that by "slave capability" they are referring to the feature of being able to trigger the lights with any external short burst of light (another flash).
Whenever you don't plug anything into your alienbees' PC port, they by default trigger whenever they detect a flash around them, using photo-sensitive sensors.
So for normal situations in a studio, like portraits, you can simply set your camera to 1/150th or whatever of a second (give a little bit of leeway above your camera's shutter sync speed), and a low ISO to block out ambient light, then trigger JUST ONE flash from your camera, and the others will automatically fire after they see the first flash.
Often I do it so that the first/"master" flash is simply a speedlight on top of my camera, aimed backward away from the subject, at a very low power (1/32 or 1/64). This doesn't show up in the actual image, but is strong enough to trigger the alienbees. And it means I don't have to carry or rely on any wireless devices at all.
change qty then click |
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change qty then click |
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change qty then click |
change qty then click |
change qty then click |
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Didn't read the whole thread, but @OP,
As an owner of basic alienbees monolights, I can confirm that by "slave capability" they are referring to the feature of being able to trigger the lights with any external short burst of light (another flash).
Whenever you don't plug anything into your alienbees' PC port, they by default trigger whenever they detect a flash around them, using photo-sensitive sensors.
So for normal situations in a studio, like portraits, you can simply set your camera to 1/150th or whatever of a second (give a little bit of leeway above your camera's shutter sync speed), and a low ISO to block out ambient light, then trigger JUST ONE flash from your camera, and the others will automatically fire after they see the first flash.
Often I do it so that the first/"master" flash is simply a speedlight on top of my camera, aimed backward away from the subject, at a very low power (1/32 or 1/64). This doesn't show up in the actual image, but is strong enough to trigger the alienbees. And it means I don't have to carry or rely on any wireless devices at all.
Or any of the thread for that matter. OP wants to shoot skateboarding outside. That's going to kill the ability of the optical slave under full sun.
Well to be honest I didnt know how well they would power 2 lights but if they really will that will free up some funding for other things.thanks for pointing that out...Also I am getting a plus receiver foe each because PCB recommends it and I want them to fire flawlessly lol...Like I said in the first post I tend to over buy...But wasting isn't good either so thats why I posted the list.. Anything you would add to it?Also @OP: why do you have four vagabonds listed?? Firing all of your strobes at full power at once would call for 2 vagabond units only, as they are rated for 1280 total Ws of stuff plugged into each one. If you need to spread out your lights, an extension cord is a lot cheaper than 2 extra vagabonds.