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AaronA1

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Well, after printing a few things, I realized that when I get images printed, they are much darker than what my computer monitor showed. I have an extremely awesome monitor that is amazing with color, but just a little off. I was told that operating systems have the effect on image quality, and not the actual monitor itself. I was told that Mac is the best option, as far as editing and getting the "what you see, is what you print out". Does anybody have any other suggestions?
 
Prints will always be darker then a monitor as monitors are back lit
 
Your computer display is likely way to bright.

To get prints that look like the image does on your computer display the display has to be calibrated.
Other wise it's just a crap shoot.

Calibration is done using a hardware tool known as a colorimeter X-Rite Eye-One Display LT

Once the display is calibrated you need the ICC profile for the machine that will make the print. Each paper type has it's own ICC profile on that machine. Online labs have their ICC profiles available for download so you can soft-proof using image editing software.

One of the keys to display calibration is controlling the amount of ambient light that falls on and around the display.
 
I was having the exact same problem. I tried to calibrate my monitors using some of the online "calibration images". My images were still being printed darker than I thought they should be.

I finally broke down and bought monitor calibration software/hardware (Spyder 3 Pro).

Turns out, as KmH alluded to already, my monitor was WAY too bright. I imagine your circumstances are similar. I was actually surprised how dark the monitor had to be turned down to give accurate prints.

By the way, after calibration, my prints are incredibly close to what I see on the monitor. Well worth the price to no longer have to deal with that frustration.


Thanks, Ralph
 
i have the same issue. my fix untill i can order the spyder is i pump up the brightness on the picture a few clicks and then print. Took me a few test prints to figure out what teh best setting was but now i just do it automatic. I don't save the pic's with the change so once i get my monitor calibrated i can see what needs to be changed better
 
Many pros recommend X-RITE's - i1 Display 2 (what I use) over the Spyder 3.

A key feature any colorimeter needs to have is the ability to detect the amount of ambient light falling on the computer display.
 
Many pros recommend X-RITE's - i1 Display 2 (what I use) over the Spyder 3.

A key feature any colorimeter needs to have is the ability to detect the amount of ambient light falling on the computer display.

I'm not sure if it's much different than X-RITE, but Spyder 3 also detects ambient light during calibration, and then it is left plugged in to continue to detect ambient light levels.

I'm not recommending one over the other. I'm just letting you know spyder 3 also seems to do a similar thing.


Thanks, Ralph
 
It's not usually a matter of ultimate brightness of a monitor that is the problem, but rather its contrast ratio. The advertised 800:1 + ratios sound great but if I recall correctly to compare to a print you will need to set it to around 1:280 which will initially make it look crap.

Once the contrast ratio is set comparing the print to the monitor is a matter of lighting the print correctly.

How expensive is the software?

Comes with the hardware :)
 
By using a CRT screen, my prints come back perfect in exposure and colour. The colour space however is important. Srgb is best for most printing.

skieur
 
By using a CRT screen, my prints come back perfect in exposure and colour. The colour space however is important. Srgb is best for most printing.

skieur

Could not disagree more. CRTs outclass low end LCDs, but they are completely obsolete in the high end world. You won't see CRTs used for research, for medical imaging, or anything else critical unless you're looking at equipment that is older than at least 10 years. The only people who seem to still hang on to them either lack the budget for a decent LCD or have some retro connection to their big glass brick.

Same with colour space. sRGB is best if you're NOT printing. The average printer has a colour space which extends outside the sRGB space in some places. A good chemical print has a wider gamut than even AdobeRGB. The ultimate step is once you have your calibrated screen and colour managed workflow is to start playing with wider gamuts if you will be printing.
 

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