Problem, any suggestions?

[*Mike*]

Sorry... I assumed you were suggesting it for a reason.

 

[prodigy2k7]

I dont like the harsh shadows on it tho. I took a picture in the shake and the shadows were much softer...

 

[prodigy2k7]

What makes you think a UV filter would do anything here?

I'd say the image is a bit underexposed. Next time, rely on the histogram more... I don't really buy into the "it's close enough, you just fix it in post processing" mentality. There's no reason not to nail exposure - at least most of the time.

I'd take the shot into CS3, and tweak the levels. Or, play with it in ACR - adjust the exposure, use highlight recovery to pull back some of the skin glare, and maybe warm the WB a tad...

Im sorry, what is ACR?

Also when its underexposed. In adobe camera raw do I use "Brightness" or "Exposure" or both?

Thanks!
Im sort of new to using RAW and trying to get used to how to settings in Adobe Camera Raw work...

 

[*Mike*]

ACR = Adobe Camera Raw.

As for exposure or brightness... it depends on the image. Exposure will adjust the white point. If the image is underexposed enough, I'd push the exposure until you start to encounter clipping. In images where bumping the exposure will lose the highlights, which is most of the time, the brightness slider will shift the histogram rightward without moving the white point. )

 

[prodigy2k7]

Interesting, thanks!
Also, if you have clipping on dark and light how do u fix that? Is it possible to normally have some and be fine with it?
I cant seem to get rif of it (like her shirt is really white, and the shadow behind her hand by her hair is very very dark in the shadow.)

 

[*Mike*]

There are a few different ways of approaching it... Bottom line though, it's going to be fairly often that the dynamic range of your camera isn't broad enough to capture the full exposure. Odds are you're going to lose some of the shadow detail, or some of the highlight detail, at least some of the time.

The rule of thumb is to "shoot to the right." That is, shoot so that the histogram is as far to the right as possible without blowing the highlights. Rationale being, the most data rich part of the capture is in the brightest couple of stops. So, it's easier to pull detail back in the highlights than it is in shadows - provided the highlights aren't actually blown.

But, go with what works. I like dark, dramatic, lighting - so my histograms are often off to the left. Now, if I was going for a "proper" exposure, I'd shoot differently. But, knowing what I want at the time of the shot I can meter accordingly.

Make sense? The key is to capture the detail that you want/need - and don't let the extremes of the exposure prove to be distracting. )

 

[prodigy2k7]

Thanks!
I know what you mean. I like how on some P&S cameras it shows the live view of histograms. Instead of on my camera u can only view it after u take the picture.