Question on shooting sport type action shots

[rgregory1965]

I work for a local municipality.....I was asked to shoot some photos of 2 different citys K-9 units in training. I did a preliminary run today and had some issues...

As you well know the dogs are fast, I had several shots that focused on objects just behind the trainer and and dog making them a little soft.....

Im shooting in manual mode, matrix metering, single point with the 39 af matrix, af-c, iso of 200, ap of 5.6, shutter was 800-1200 depending on the shot.....I was about 20 yards away. 18-105mm lens in my sig.

1. Should I be in SP or AP modes?

2. I know think that if I stay in manual I should have shot at around f/8.0 or higher.

3. Should I focus in advance on the area where the dog will be and lock the focus and then shoot when he arrives?

This is kind of a big chance for me and really want the best results...

I did have more than 80 percent come out spot on and nice looking.....

I would love to post a sample but was asked not to repost training photos online.

 

[MLeeK]

Your D7000 should be able to track focus on the dog/handler just fine. Af-c is correct. I do not know how the 39 af matrix works in Nikon, I am a canon shooter. I am sorry!

1. Most people will still recommend shooting in Aperture priority even in a sporting situation. I am not one of them, but I don't exactly like any of the assisted modes. I think they are harder on the shooter. You have to watch your other setting constantly to make sure it's acceptable and you get things that are wacked in post processing.
I much prefer manual and here's my theory on that: If you are in a lighting situation that doesn't change constantly it's much easier on me in post processing to shoot in full manual. My exposure on my images then is never off by hitting the wrong tones when metering. It's one universal adjustment to the curve that way. It works for me beautifully-does not mean it's going to work for everyone.
So... if you are working in a lighting situation that doesn't change consider setting your exposure in manual and shooting that way.

2. Why do you feel you need to be at f/8 or higher? If you are shooting one handler and dog f/8 is pretty narrow for DOF. What lens are you shooting with? I am guessing your 55-300? I'd say you are probably fine at f/5.6. I might go to f/7 just for a bit of added sharpness of the lens. F/8 is great as long as you can maintain a shutter speed fast enough to stop the motion.

3. You can try pre-focusing, but the tracking in the d7000 should be able to pan with the dog and handler beautifully. If you happen to get a panning effect with it all the better-that's definitely something to play a bit with if you can!!!

If you are hitting 80% or more on your first shot out the gate I'd say you are doing great. I've been shooting sports for several years now. My first year of football was probably somewhere between 50% and 70%. I shot Volleyball for the first time this year. I think I may have hit about 30% in the first set of games! It was HORRIFIC!!!

 

[Vtec44]

It's also best if you have a fast AF lens, and try to use the cross type focus points when possible. Also, try to burst in JPEG instead of RAW. My personal preference is not to pre-focus, but that's just me.

I'm no expert but I've taken pictures of some fast moving stuff... =)

 

[rgregory1965]

I was shooting in JPEG today, I was reading and it says to use the 21 point af system when shooting sports....I may try that next time.....I was using the 18-105 lens in my sig not the 55-300.....didnt really need that kinda close ups.....thanks for the words of wisdom.....this is my first REAL deal even if it is not a paid gig....its a learning experience and some really good photos to add to my portfolio.

 

[KmH]

Action shots are some of the most difficult shots to make.

I usually used AF-C, single point, spot metering, A mode (aperture priority) set to 3.5 (it will change automatically if you zoom to a longer focal length), and let the ISO float (auto), but I kept a close eye on both the shutter speed and the ISO displayed in the viewfinder (Custom Settings menu - d3, page 216 D7000 user's manual).

I also set up my camera to move the auto focus function from the shutter release to the AE-L/AF-L button on the back of the camera (AF-On, page 232 in the D7000 user's manual - custom shooting menu f5).

No doubt you have to antisipate the action, but that's more for timing the shutter release than for focusing. it take a fair amount of practice and a good understanding of how the gear works. because AF-C activates shutter priority for focusing some % of your shots will be OOF.
Most of the time your eye has to be at the viewfinder, and you have to work that back focus button. If you are right eye dominate you can leave both eyes open so you can follow the action with your left eye.

Unfortunately Nikon's 55-300 mm lens is not nearly as good as the Nikon 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G ED IF AF-S VR Nikkor Zoom Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras
for what you are wanting to do.

 

[Tony S]

I've shot something similar with FEMA search K-9s.

If the light was constant without any changes I would find my exposure and shoot in manual mode. My focus is set to the single center point as that's the fastest and most accurate of the points being a cross point and it also gives me specific control over where I am getting focus, and using AI servo tracking (Canon's version). If it was a day where it was partly cloudy I would shoot in Aperture priority and usually with exposure compensation +1/2 with matrix metering.

Here's a couple I have access to from here at work of canines going through their evaluation/certification. ...

Sunny, a very good dog that was cross trained for collapse, wilderness and cadaver searches.

The late Thunder who passed away two years ago, he did searches for us at Oklahoma City, Oklahoma tornados, and the World Trade Center.