Questions about a blacklight party? Think club for children i think

bennybanks · Feb 7, 2014

somethings that work for me when shooting in dark type of environments is increase the ISO to at least 2000 and open the aperture as wide as possible. You will still need to get the brighter lens you can buy like an F/1.8 or F/1.4 because this lenses will allow at least 5 times more light.

Braineack · Feb 7, 2014

bennybanks said:
somethings that work for me when shooting in dark type of environments is increase the ISO to at least 2000 and open the aperture as wide as possible. You will still need to get the brighter lens you can buy like an F/1.8 or F/1.4 because this lenses will allow at least 5 times more light.

or 200-400 Iso, a flash, and an f/stop that allows more than the tip of a nose to be in focus?

bobandcar · Feb 7, 2014

I've got the 50 1.4
Canon 430 ex one(think it still has the assist beam.)

I'll look into the rest when I have more than just my phone to look at.

TCampbell · Feb 7, 2014

Gavjenks said:
? Xenon drops off quite smoothly, dunno what you're talking about. The amount in 300-400nm UV to my eye is about 1/5-1/4 as much as the output in visible range. Which would imply you should start out with your flash about 2 stops higher than normal with a UV or maybe violet gel on it, to get the beginnings of an impressive effect. Then go up from there, since who knows how efficient the fluorescence is.

A deep violet filter looks from the graphs like it would be about 20% violet 20% far UV and 60% near UV roughly
View attachment 66138
or
View attachment 66139

Gav, go to images.google.com and use a search term such as "xenon strobe spectrum" -- you'll find quite a few images and they show a noticeable peak in output in the 200-300nm range (none of which is visible to the human eye and since it's not even near-UV I don't think it would count much for florescent paints).

Check the wikipedia page for black lights here: Black light - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

There's a table that shows the wavelengths used for typical "night club" use is either 350nm or 370nm and I think 370nm is the normal peak. That's why I didn't think the 200-300nm wavelength energy would be useful. In other words... weather there is quite a spike between 200-300nm probably isn't all that important to black-light photography with a photo strobe if it turns out the dies can't convert those higher frequency waves into visible florescent bright colors.

If there is enough continuous "black light" in the room then the camera should be able to image the bright florescent paints and dies quite easily.

I haven't toyed with this first-hand, but it looks like it would be pretty fun!

Gavjenks · Feb 8, 2014

So like this one then?
http://buymarijuanaseeds.com/community/attachments/graph-jpg.108504/
That still looks pretty good 300-400 versus visible, I think it would be effective.

bobandcar · Mar 10, 2014

It was worse than expected. They had fog machines going also.
Ended up using the 50 1.4 and 12-24 f4
Unfortunately ISO 3200 and 6400 <t3i not that grEat in this range but didn't have a choice.
There was another gentleman there doing pics with an xti with a 50 1.8 and he gave up right after the lights went down.
The friend I was doing this for is a nikon d90 user and tried with her stuff when they booked the pArty and realizes how difficult it was.

I kept up with her every so often to find out about specific shots she wanted and it worked out well because I showed her how it was going for me.

Saving grace!! T3i video under candlelight only of the happy birthday with the 2 birthday kids.
That by itself came out great and she was very happy I was able to get that.

BTW that song called "I'm so happy" by pherel is so bad and my ears are burning from it