Rapper performing

[QobraKhan]

Kinda like this:<img src="http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=30035"/>

Thank you ManualMode, I will try this next event, and post the results, I am always up for learning new things, thank you again.

 

[QobraKhan]

Ps I am looking at ManualMode.info right now, very interesting site/blog

 

[ManualMode]

Ps I am looking at ManualMode.info right now, very interesting site/blog

Thanks.. I do what I can to make it easy to read and avoid it being just a massive brain dump like a lot of sites out there..

 

[slow231]

Even better: drag the shutter, but set the flash to rear-curtain sync (This will make it fire right before the second curtain closes, aka, right at the end of the exposure).
You'll get more background, you'll get motion blur, but you'll also get a tack sharp subject..
If the subject is not sharp, check the onboard flash power and make sure it's at the fastest speed.

This sounds interesting, although complex, as I am new at this, when you say rear curtain sync, (I just googled it by the way) and I understand the concept, how would I set that up?

Alright I went through my settings and see in flash settings under normal flash firing if I push info and click on shutter sync it says first and second curtain, is this what you are talking about? And could you explain maybe in layman s terms, what this is good for and what effect it is doing, this way I can understand better, of the why factor, for me, understanding why something is done and what it actually is doing, is a better way for ME to learn vs just following directions, it would be much appreciated..thank you ahead of time.

Usually, you just hold your flash button and spin the dial until the indicator shows something like "rear".
Essentially what it does in is: instead of firing the flash at the beginning of a 2 second exposure and then letting the ambient light spill all over the image for the remainder of it..it opens the shutter for almost the 2 full seconds and at a split second before closing, it fires the flash. What this does is lets the ambient light spill all over the exposure *first* and then then in the final split second freezes a moving subject with a split second of flash.

It will probably make more sense once you try it for yourself.. have someone in a dark room spin something light around in their hands and shoot some pictures with rear-curtain snc

not a great explanation IMO. front or rear curtain makes no difference in "freezing" the motion. It's purely the flash that takes care of that. it's not like the sensor overwrites or paints over the image with info received later in the exposure. info/light gathered over the entire exposure is simply summed together with no distinction between what was gathered earlier vs. later. all front/rear curtain setting does, is set whether the streaks lead or lag the "frozen" portion of the image. the shot posted of the boy could easily be front or rear curtain. it's particularly ambiguous because there's nothing leading up to his hand to tell if the streaks were done pre or post flash.

here's an explanation:
http://neilvn.com/tangents/first-curtain-sync-vs-rear-curtain-sync/

either method can still get you streaks, and potentially over important areas of your subject. depending on the motion of your subject and what portions you want less streaky, front or rear curtain may work better. if you're interested in the keeping the leading edge of your subject (ie if you want to keep the front of a person's face who head is moving forward) rear curtain will work better. If you want to preserve the trailing edge (ie if you want to keep the front of a persons face who's head is moving backward), then rear will work better.

i've done some concert photography, and some club event type stuff. it's dark (with sudden lighting changes), and your subjects are often moving pretty quickly and erratically. longer shutters aren't that useful and the flash usually overpowers everything anyways so front/rear curtain doesn't make a huge difference. It's been a while but i'm pretty sure i usually set for front. having the flash fire a half second after the pre-flash or af-assist can cause you problems with your subjects dropping their original expression. then you're just catching awkward, unflattering, between-expression faces. my opinion, ymmv.

edit: also looking at the added shots from the event... yes, killing the background in the first shot was a good idea. the first shot looks a lot more like a real venue. if i were the artist i'd very much prefer that over the background shown in the subsequent shots.

 

[Mach0]

The background doesn't look appealing


The background doesn't look appealing. How was it lit?

You can drag the shutter and raise the ISO.

 

[QobraKhan]

Thanks.. I do what I can to make it easy to read and avoid it being just a massive brain dump like a lot of sites out there..

And you achieved that, I honestly DIDNT know how to read (nor was I aware of) the light meter, and how to use that to make sure exposure is right. That opened up a whole new world for me, thx, something I have a problem with though is sometimes no matter what, there is no achieving proper light balance it is just dark...without led light or flash...don't know if you have any tips for that?

I have a lot of respect for you.

 

[QobraKhan]

not a great explanation IMO. front or rear curtain makes no difference in "freezing" the motion. It's purely the flash that takes care of that. it's not like the sensor overwrites or paints over the image with info received later in the exposure. info/light gathered over the entire exposure is simply summed together with no distinction between what was gathered earlier vs. later. all front/rear curtain setting does, is set whether the streaks lead or lag the "frozen" portion of the image. the shot posted of the boy could easily be front or rear curtain. it's particularly ambiguous because there's nothing leading up to his hand to tell if the streaks were done pre or post flash.

here's an explanation:
http://neilvn.com/tangents/first-curtain-sync-vs-rear-curtain-sync/

either method can still get you streaks, and potentially over important areas of your subject. depending on the motion of your subject and what portions you want less streaky, front or rear curtain may work better. if you're interested in the keeping the leading edge of your subject (ie if you want to keep the front of a person's face who head is moving forward) rear curtain will work better. If you want to preserve the trailing edge (ie if you want to keep the front of a persons face who's head is moving backward), then rear will work better.

i've done some concert photography, and some club event type stuff. it's dark (with sudden lighting changes), and your subjects are often moving pretty quickly and erratically. longer shutters aren't that useful and the flash usually overpowers everything anyways so front/rear curtain doesn't make a huge difference. It's been a while but i'm pretty sure i usually set for front. having the flash fire a half second after the pre-flash or af-assist can cause you problems with your subjects dropping their original expression. then you're just catching awkward, unflattering, between-expression faces. my opinion, ymmv.

edit: also looking at the added shots from the event... yes, killing the background in the first shot was a good idea. the first shot looks a lot more like a real venue. if i were the artist i'd very much prefer that over the background shown in the subsequent shots.

Thank you very much, this explains it even more, and thanks for agreeing about what I did with the first shot, I am an artist myself, and when I take shots, I think of what I would like ..I keep in mind album covers, web site banners, flyers, I don't just take shots to capture the moment per se ..I take pictures with what the picture can be used for as a finished product..

I have taken plenty of ugly pictures, to know what doesn't work, I also do graphics and web design, and run an independent hip hop label. ..so I keep that in mind of what I could use in a graphic, this doesn't necessarily translate to me being a great photographer ..I have tons to learn in order to be considered great at that..but I do have an eye for what aspects are desired by artists, labels and graphic designers. I would not do the same things I do with event photos as I would with portraits or landscape etc.

Again thanks for the explanation and I will keep posting pics and hope to keep improving.

 

[ManualMode]

not a great explanation IMO. front or rear curtain makes no difference in "freezing" the motion. It's purely the flash that takes care of that. it's not like the sensor overwrites or paints over the image with info received later in the exposure. info/light gathered over the entire exposure is simply summed together with no distinction between what was gathered earlier vs. later. all front/rear curtain setting does, is set whether the streaks lead or lag the "frozen" portion of the image. the shot posted of the boy could easily be front or rear curtain. it's particularly ambiguous because there's nothing leading up to his hand to tell if the streaks were done pre or post flash.

We're going to have to agree to disagree. My friend Bryan Peterson would also disagree:

 

[ManualMode]

And you achieved that, I honestly DIDNT know how to read (nor was I aware of) the light meter, and how to use that to make sure exposure is right. That opened up a whole new world for me, thx, something I have a problem with though is sometimes no matter what, there is no achieving proper light balance it is just dark...without led light or flash...don't know if you have any tips for that?

Glad to help.

If your meter is reading underexposed there are a few things you can do, but remember that all come with consequences or side-effects.. So you can open your aperture (set it to the lowest f number): This will allow more light in, but limit your depth of field.
You could increase your iso, which would increase your light sensitivity, but also brings unwanted noise.
You could decrease your shutter speed, which lets in light over a greater period of time, but will give your motion blur.

Honestly, if you think you are going to shoot a lot of low-light/portrait style photos. go invest the 100$ on a 50mm f1.8 portrait lens. The very wide aperture shoots well in the dark and will give you some bad ass bokeh: Maximizing Bokeh/Blurred Backgrounds

 

[QobraKhan]

Glad to help.

If your meter is reading underexposed there are a few things you can do, but remember that all come with consequences or side-effects.. So you can open your aperture (set it to the lowest f number): This will allow more light in, but limit your depth of field.
You could increase your iso, which would increase your light sensitivity, but also brings unwanted noise.
You could decrease your shutter speed, which lets in light over a greater period of time, but will give your motion blur.

Honestly, if you think you are going to shoot a lot of low-light/portrait style photos. go invest the 100$ on a 50mm f1.8 portrait lens. The very wide aperture shoots well in the dark and will give you some bad ass bokeh: Maximizing Bokeh/Blurred Backgrounds

Thank you again, and that lens is on my list to get, I was thinking of getting the 55-300mm one next thinking that would slow me to zoom in on farther away subjects, is that correct? Cuz I just have the 18-55 now, my buddy had the 50mm and he loves it, he also said it is good for music video, would you agree?

The 50mm was the one I was going to buy after the 55-300mm ..there is also one that is not canon brand, that is like 500-100mm or 5000-10000 mm or something that I wanted to get, for wildlife and moon shots, have you heard of that one?