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Real estate wide angle

In my country there is no good choice of reliable used cameras. I don't prefer buying offshore because I will need to pay big taxes. Best option for me is buying new camera and lens in my Country (price for me will be similar like on Amazone).


I would like to get good pictures which i don't have correct via programs( I will need to take a lot of pictures and correction will take me too much time).


What is opinion about Sigma lenses 10-20mm are they good for me?


In my case i cant take tripods with me.


If i get body and lenses without image stabilization i wont get good picture on low light?


Also what is opinion about Panasonic LX5 with wide angle adapter?
 
A fish-eye will give curved distortions to elements which should be straight -- so windows, doors, furniture, etc. will bend and warp in wonky ways. A rectilinear wide angle (most wide-angle lenses are rectilinear) will preserve the straight lines. Doors at windows taken at angles will become trapezoid shaped, but they won't take on curved or warped appearances.

If the camera is "level" then verticals in the image should also remain "level".

Indoor architecture / real-estate photos are tough to create because of the extremely un-even lighting, mixed types of lighting, and reflections. A flash won't solve the problem because you're not shooting a person in a room... you're shooting the whole room. So the variable distances of every subject will still throw off the lighting. You'd need numerous lights. If windows and doorways showing off the outside are present in the images (and if you shoot every room to stay away from the windows then it'll look like the homes have no windows... and that won't sell) then you have a brilliant outdoor light against rather dim indoor light. If you expose for the indoors, the windows are blown out brightly. If you expose for the outdoors, the indoor will be nearly black.

If I were doing this on a budget and couldn't get the lighting, then I'd shoot in HDR and process for a natural (not a surrealistic) look. But I wouldn't let the camera pick the middle exposure (don't shoot based on what the camera suggests and then shoot a stop up and a stop down.) I'd spot meter the darkest place in the room and note the exposure. Spot meter the brightest thing in the scene (which will probably be the view out the windows) and note that exposure. Then find the middle exposure. Set the camera (manually) for that and bracket the shot accordingly. You will, of course, need a tripod.

Any DSLR body will work (you don't need particularly high resolution and since you're on a tripod and can shoot everything at ISO 100 the sensor performance won't matter either.) A Nikon D3100 or a Canon T3 would do the trick. As for lenses... you'll probably want a zoom in the 10-20mm range. These can be pricey. If you want, try renting a few lenses to find something that works out well for you and buy based on that.
 
A fish-eye will give curved distortions to elements which should be straight -- so windows, doors, furniture, etc. will bend and warp in wonky ways. ............

Again...... it's a one-click correction with the 10.5 Nikkor and Capture NX2. Curved lines are rendered straight.
 
A fish-eye will give curved distortions to elements which should be straight -- so windows, doors, furniture, etc. will bend and warp in wonky ways. ............

Again...... it's a one-click correction with the 10.5 Nikkor and Capture NX2. Curved lines are rendered straight.

This suggestion still doesn't make sense to me. The fisheye is not cheaper than rectilinear wide angles, but it will result in more processing time and lower resolution. Considering the OP's limited budget, he will probably need all 8 or 10 megapixels he can afford. I'm not understanding what the advantage would be choosing a fisheye over any of the UWA zooms.

The best suggestion I've heard so far is to find an 11-16 or 10-20 used, and then buy the newest body possible with whatever cash is left.

This project is _impossible_ to do correctly without a tripod though, and _very difficult_ to do without off camera lighting.
 
This suggestion still doesn't make sense to me. The fisheye is not cheaper than rectilinear wide angles,

Nikkor 10-24: $900 , ~750 -800 used
Nikkor 10.5: $775, ~ 500 used


but it will result in more processing time........

Holy cow. One click. ONE CLICK. Let's try this again...... distortion correction is precisely 1.0000000 clicks.


...... and lower resolution.

How many REAs need to make 40x60" prints? C'mon... it's for real estate! What kind of resolution do you honesty think they're gonna need for the Sunday papers and web sites?


Considering the OP's limited budget, he will probably need all 8 or 10 megapixels he can afford. I'm not understanding what the advantage would be choosing a fisheye over any of the UWA zooms.

Real estate = shooting interiors. Sometimes vary small interiors. An 18 or 24 ain't gonna cut it.


This project is _impossible_ to do correctly without a tripod though, and _very difficult_ to do without off camera lighting.

If they really want to 'do it right', they'd just hire a pro to do it.
 
Hello,

i take pictures of interior and i need to have:
- Quality pictures
- Wide angle
- Good pictures when is bad light


My budget is around 1000$ and i would like to have some help what should i buy.

If I am going to do it with US $1000, I will pick up ..

- A entry level DSLR. i.e. Canon T3 $378 or T2i $549 (body only)
- Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 ($479 a amazon)
- A good enough tripod (or something you can set you camera on)


That should be able to take an interior photo (does not mean it going to be great photo) quick.
 
This suggestion still doesn't make sense to me. The fisheye is not cheaper than rectilinear wide angles,

Nikkor 10-24: $900 , ~750 -800 used
Nikkor 10.5: $775, ~ 500 used

On such a constrained budget, I would definitely be looking at 3rd party glass. The Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6 is cheaper new than that fisheye is used.

but it will result in more processing time........

Holy cow. One click. ONE CLICK. Let's try this again...... distortion correction is precisely 1.0000000 clicks.

And 1 click is more than 0 clicks. Over 1000's of photos that will add up.

How many REAs need to make 40x60" prints? C'mon... it's for real estate! What kind of resolution do you honesty think they're gonna need for the Sunday papers and web sites?

40x60"? really? does this argument not appear silly yet?
On a budget this tight, OP will end up with a ~10 megapixel body. What sense does it make if your only lens requires you to throw away a bunch of that?

Real estate = shooting interiors. Sometimes vary small interiors. An 18 or 24 ain't gonna cut it.

Which is why I suggested a 10, or 11...
A 10.5 fisheye after correction will be closer to 13mm, and thus _worse_ in tight interiors than most available UWA's.

This project is _impossible_ to do correctly without a tripod though, and _very difficult_ to do without off camera lighting.

If they really want to 'do it right', they'd just hire a pro to do it.

Hey! We agree on something! :lol:
 
Used d90 and a used tokina 11-16
 
A fish-eye will give curved distortions to elements which should be straight -- so windows, doors, furniture, etc. will bend and warp in wonky ways. ............

Again...... it's a one-click correction with the 10.5 Nikkor and Capture NX2. Curved lines are rendered straight.

I want to avoid program correction, i will take a lot of pictures and that will give me extra work.

Hello,

i take pictures of interior and i need to have:
- Quality pictures
- Wide angle
- Good pictures when is bad light


My budget is around 1000$ and i would like to have some help what should i buy.

If I am going to do it with US $1000, I will pick up ..

- A entry level DSLR. i.e. Canon T3 $378 or T2i $549 (body only)
- Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 ($479 a amazon)
- A good enough tripod (or something you can set you camera on)


That should be able to take an interior photo (does not mean it going to be great photo) quick.

What is your opinion about Nikon D5100?

I somewhere read that peoples have problem with
distortion on Sigma 10-20mm?

I am not able to carry tripod so should i then better take camera with image stabilization like Panasonic LX5 with wide angle add on?


Used d90 and a used tokina 11-16

As i already explained i am not able to get good used equipment and i would like to buy new.
 
I want to avoid program correction, i will take a lot of pictures and that will give me extra work.

I guess cropping, straightening, resizing, etc. are out.

What is your opinion about Nikon D5100?

Capable entry-level DSLR.

I somewhere read that peoples have problem with distortion on Sigma 10-20mm?

Perspective might be a huge issue.... don't aim the camera up or down much.

I am not able to carry tripod so should i then better take camera with image stabilization like Panasonic LX5 with wide angle add on?

Odd are, you can raise the ISO to 400 or 800 and forgo the tripod.
 

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