reflections, shooting through a window

[pocketcamera]

I have slrs, and my nikon dslr, they have the same issues when i shoot through windows.


the slats on the blinds need to be adjusted carefully to control a white haze from appearing in the image. no way around it.
some days are worse, some times of the day are worse then others. angle of the slats plays a role.

The solution is to use a cpl on the lens, and in the case of my film cameras also to use a camera hood and press the hood up against the window itself. it works ok, but sometimes if the lens gets angled to the window things start appearing.

The nikon, i just max out the zoom and stand back a few feet and shoot through the slats. SOME of the time i get the haze but i am shooting BIG IMAGE SIZE, so i can crop most of it out if needed.

But the thing i hve noticed is that with my voightlander vitomatic range finder,,,,,, i dont have the issue at all. in the 3 rolls i have shot through the window, as long as i keep the lens inside the slats and perpendicular to the window, i get no issues. regardless of summer time or winter, or heavy sun, or hazy 8 conditions.

Is it a quirk of the way the shutter is arranged in the fixed lens camera? Or just something different about the overall length/diameter ratio of the tube? or the lens coatings

 

[Strodav]

If I understand what your are describing, I believe it's the lens not the camera. One of the reasons for lens hoods is to stop strong light slightly off axis from entering the lens and bouncing around, which reduces contrast and looks like haze. Depending on the quality of the lens (this is where cost difference and coatings come in), you can get a significant decrease in contrast along with other artifacts with stray light. A polarizer on a slr or a cpl on a dslr can stop stray light from entering the lens avoiding the problem. Sometimes you can reduce the appearance of the problem with the dehaze tool in your PP software like Lightroom.

A related topic is f stops vs t stops. f-stop specifies is the amount of light the lens can let in where t stop is the usable light that gets to the film or sensor. For example, a typical 35mm f/1.8 my have a t-stop spec of f/2.1. So even though you paid for an f/1.8 lens you are really getting an f/2.1 lens. The more expensive the lens the closer the t-stop spec will be to the f-stop spec and the higher the image quality as more of the light entering the lens contributes to the image on the sensor instead of bouncing around the lens and end up reducing contrast. Hope this helps

 

[Space Face]

As mentioned above the dehaze tool is a good function. I used it to good effect recently on some pictures I took through perspex sheeting.

 

[Mike Drone]

If I understand what your are describing, I believe it's the lens not the camera. One of the reasons for lens hoods is to stop strong light slightly off axis from entering the lens and bouncing around, which reduces contrast and looks like haze. Depending on the quality of the lens (this is where cost difference and coatings come in), you can get a significant decrease in contrast along with other artifacts with stray light. A polarizer on a slr or a cpl on a dslr can stop stray light from entering the lens avoiding the problem. Sometimes you can reduce the appearance of the problem with the dehaze tool in your PP software like Lightroom.

A related topic is f stops vs t stops. f-stop specifies is the amount of light the lens can let in where t stop is the usable light that gets to the film or sensor. For example, a typical 35mm f/1.8 my have a t-stop spec of f/2.1. So even though you paid for an f/1.8 lens you are really getting an f/2.1 lens. The more expensive the lens the closer the t-stop spec will be to the f-stop spec and the higher the image quality as more of the light entering the lens contributes to the image on the sensor instead of bouncing around the lens and end up reducing contrast. Hope this helps

Original poster is no longer with us. Awesome information =]