reverse lens adapter?

[Hardrock]

I have the 100mm 2.8 macro lens from canon, and was wondering if anyone has used the reverse lens mount from Macro Lens Reversing Ring or any other reverse lens mount. Any feedback positive or negative would be great!

 

[tirediron]

If you have a macro lens, why use a reversing ring?

That question aside, while I've not used this particular one, I don't recommend ANY reversing rings. Yes, they can get you some great results for a minimal investment, but remember, the filter threads on the front of your lens were made to support the weight of a filter, NOT the whole lens. As well, the "inside" end of your lens is not always especially well sealed, and using it in the open like that makes it much more likely that you're going to get dust and crud inside your lens.

 

[icassell]

I used a reversing ring with my Minolta SLR lenses for many years with excellent results. I never had issues with dirt or weight. I then bought a 50mm Macro and went that route. I now have gone dSLR and have a 100mm macro and don't see any purpose to a reversing ring with this lens. I still carry my set of 3 close-up lenses around when I don't want the weight of the macro in my kit and don't expect to do macro work -- it is lightweight insurance for the unexpected. I wish I did have a reversing ring for my walkaround 17-50mm.

 

[Hardrock]

Thanks guys for the input! So there would be no benifit to using one with the 100mm? What about my kit lense the 18 to 55? Im just curious because I would like to take some pictures of ants and I cant quite make the ant big enough in the picture at 1 to 1 with the 100mm. Any advice?

 

[icassell]

really? I have taken ants with my canon 100 ... yes, you do need to get close! another option (albeit expensive) is to get a longer focal length macro ... Canon EF 180mm f/3.5 L USM Macro Lens Review

 

[Hardrock]

I guess they just didnt fill the frame like I hoped they would. I can crop the picture but my camera is only a 8mp camera and it just doesnt look as good. Maybe Im not using it correctly. I turn the focus ring all the way to 1 to 1 and move the camera until they are focused. I guess I was just expecting a little more, but all other larger insects it works great!

 

[icassell]

well, you want greater than 1:1

I use an 8mp (Canon 30D) and I can mag an ant up enough to be happy with it ... I don't blow my images up huge, though.

 

[Hardrock]

well, you want greater than 1:1

I use an 8mp (Canon 30D) and I can mag an ant up enough to be happy with it ... I don't blow my images up huge, though.

Thanks again! So how else can you achieve greater than 1:1?

 

[icassell]

I think you would need another lens (I'm no expert, however).

Here's my dream: Amazon.com: Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5X Macro Lens for Canon SLR Cameras: Electronics

 

[Samanax]

Thanks again! So how else can you achieve greater than 1:1?

Canon Macro Photo MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5x Manual Focus Lens - 5:1 image magnification.

 

[icassell]

Another option that I forgot about is to put extension tubes between your macro and your camera.

 

[Hardrock]

Well that lense wasnt as expensive as I thought it might be. Have you guys used the macro extension tubes?

 

[Josh66]

If you want greater than 1:1 macro, you need either the MP-E 65, or a macro coupler.

A macro coupler lets you mount two lenses face to face.

really? I have taken ants with my canon 100 ... yes, you do need to get close! another option (albeit expensive) is to get a longer focal length macro ... Canon EF 180mm f/3.5 L USM Macro Lens Review

That will still only get you 1:1 though, you just don't have to be as close to do it.

 

[Dwig]

I have the 100mm 2.8 macro lens from canon, and was wondering if anyone has used the reverse lens mount from Macro Lens Reversing Ring or any other reverse lens mount. Any feedback positive or negative would be great!

Note: the following uses optical design terms in their technical definitions, not to be confused with common slang

This type of lens reversing ring works very well, primarily with lenses of normal or retrofocus design (generally 35mm SLR and DSLR lenses 50mm and shorter). They don't work without additional extension, tubes or bellows, when used with telephoto designs. You 100mm 2.8 macro is probably a slight telephoto and may not deliver much higher magnifications reversed than it does mounted normally unless additional extension is added. The 18-55mm lens illustrated is a retrofocus design throughout most or all of its zoom range and will deliver rather high magnifications simply reversed directly on the body.

While these rings are inexpensive and easy to carry around, reversing the lens eliminates any connection between the body and the lens' aperture controls. Lenses that lack their own f/stop rings can be problematic. Also, metering is difficult or, with some camera impossible. There is generally little or no focus control and only zooms have any control (the zoom setting) to change magnification.

Terms as used:
Normal design: the optical center of the lens (entrance and exit pupils) lie withing the physical body of the lens. In a different context, "normal" refers to a lens with a focal length roughly equal to the diagonal measure of the image on film or sensor.
Telephoto design: the optical center of the lens is extended very far forward in the lens or possibly in front of the lens. The lens is physically shorter than its focal length. This term is commonly used as slang with a different definition substituting for the proper term "long focus", meaning a lens of longer focal length than a "normal" lens. Most modern long focus lenses are actually telephoto designs, but not all. Classic examples of non-telephoto long focus lenses are most Nikkor 85mm lenses, the legendary 105mm f/2.8, and the Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/4.
Retrofocus design: These are "inverted telephotos" where the optical center is projected behind the lens center, often behind the rear element. Any lens on a 35mm SLR or DSLR shorter than 50mm has to be a retrofocus design to at least some degree to prevent the rear element from being too close to the sensor for the mirror to lift.

 

[tirediron]

Well that lense wasnt as expensive as I thought it might be. Have you guys used the macro extension tubes?

A much better option they have no optical elements, so therefore virtually no impact on the final image quality. If you buy the less expensive ones, you may lose auto metering/focus (not much use in macro work anyway).