Simple setup for high school athletics

[Bradley Nelson]

I coach high school track and field. I'd like to be able to take some good quality action shots of my athletes during track meets. My wife has a Canon Rebel that I've used a fair amount, so I understand some of the basics, but I'm still very much a newbie when it comes to digital photography.

I'd like to get a simple DSLR setup that will let me get crisp, clear shots of athletes without a whole lot of hassle. That means limited adjusting of ISO, frame rate, etc. And it means one lens. As a coach, I can get fairly close, but I know I need more than 55mm. But a 400mm lens is (a) too expensive and (b) too big for me to haul around as a coach. I can typically be within 50ft of the athletes at most.

So my questions are:
1) Is a Canon Rebel a reasonable camera to use for this? Getting clear action shots? (I know there are various Rebels, so which is best for this?)
2) What lens is best? 100mm? 200mm? Something else?
3) What are the key tips for getting those clear action shots without a lot of fuss?

I know I'm trying to take a high-skill task and dumb it down a bit here, but I'm also trying to be practical! I know I won't get professional quality photos, but I'm hoping for something better than iPhone shots.

 

[ac12]

I advise the Yearbook photographers at my local high school.

#1 and 2 - The standard camera and lens that we use is a Canon T7i + 18-135mm lens. I use the similar Nikon D7200 + 18-140.
A kit of T7i + 18-135 is about $1,000 on Amazon.

You can probably get by with the T5, because T&F is a day time event, but I do not know if there is a T5 + 18-135 kit. But the T7i is a better camera, and I personally would go with the T7i.​

There will be certain shots that the 18-135 is too short for, but I've found it to work for most T&F events that I've shot.

Example, left, shooting 50 yard hurdles from beyond the finish line. This call for a 70-300, to reach far enough down the track.
However, if you are shooting during practice (vs a match), where you can get close, you can do this shot with the 18-135.
Normally hurdles is shot from the side of the track, where the 18-135 would work fine.
But even from the side, if you go down, you get a different view (example right)

#3 - The best suggestion that I can give you to get good shots is to walk around and really look with your eyes.
If you learn to become observant, you will start to see pictures.
Also the angle of the shot. Walk around the event, to see what different angles of an event will give you. I tell my kids to do a 360 degree walk around the event, to see what they can get from all angles of the compass.
Some event require multiple shooting positions.

Example1, shot put, because of the body position changing from set up to release, you end up having to shoot from both the right and left sides.

Example2, high jump. Normally the kids go over backwards. But there was this one kid who went over in a seating position, looking down the bar. I would have to shoot him from the other side of the bar, to get his face.
​

And don't always shoot at your standing eye level. Depending on the event, you can get good shots from down low, or higher.

Example, long jump, kneel down beyond the sand pit, so you are at their face level when they land in the sand pit.

Surf the web by event, to see what kinds of shots others have done. There are a LOT of samples to look at. Then copy/download then, so you have a sample book/document. You then build on what you find to duplicate the shot, then extend it to make your own shot.
Note: All of the pictures in this post are from searching the web.

Notes:

• Exposure
  • I would shoot ether in sports mode or shutter priority (Tv) at 1/500 or 1/1000 sec.
• Shutter - I shoot some stuff in single shot mode, and others in continuous high (to improve my chance of getting the shot that I want).
• Auto Focus - I have learned to shoot most sports in Single Point Center mode. Canon's zone/area focus uses 'closest subject' logic to determine what to focus on, and that it problematic.
  • Example1 - In the case of the left hurdler above, it would focus on the hurdle between you and the runner, not the runner.
    
  • Example2 - In a group of students, it will focus on the closest student, even if YOUR student is further back. You have to determine what AF mode works best for the specific event you are shooting.

Example in this shot, if YOUR runner was in lane 3, the Canon in area/zone mode would focus on the runner in lane 7, as she is closer to the camera. ​

And finally, as I tell my students, KEEP SHOOTING.
The more you shoot, the more your eye develops, and you can see more shots.
Also some shots are just pure luck, so requires shooting a LOT of shots to get that one shot that you want.

Example1, shotput, to get the shot within 6 inches of the hand on release.
Example2, long jump, to get the sand spray to be BIG.​

And keep searching the internet for new shot ideas.

gud luk

 

[dennybeall]

I've used Nikon cameras for a long time and find they work well. The newer the better. I'd also recommend the 18-140mm lens, it's the one that stays mounted on my camera. You could use one of the cameras in the 7000 line, say a D7200 to D7500 or in the 5000 group, D5100 to D5500. The highest number being the newer and obviously more expensive. But, for what you want any of them would be fine.
There are better and there are much better. If you've got the bucks (about 3500 of them) you could go with the D850 but then you'd still need to buy a lens..................................................

 

[Designer]

So my questions are:
1) Is a Canon Rebel a reasonable camera to use for this? Getting clear action shots? (I know there are various Rebels, so which is best for this?)
2) What lens is best? 100mm? 200mm? Something else?
3) What are the key tips for getting those clear action shots without a lot of fuss?

Oh, man! Where to start?

1) You seem to be open to acquiring a different camera, and if so, what is your proposed budget? In case you decide to "go all in", you're probably looking at a mid-range "enthusiast" level of camera body, at least one lens, and a speedlight attachment. Minimum. There may be extras on top of that, but we will save that for a later time.

2) Aside from the focal length, you should also consider the aperture and how fast it focuses. A larger aperture lets you get some low-light shots and selectively blur out the background (and foreground). A really good lens can cost a fair amount of money, so get ready.

3) Practice. Practice in good holding technique and panning smoothly is your first step in getting good shots. Also, knowing how to frame and crop will come in handy.

May I assume you have only a 50mm lens now? I'd say just use what you've got for now, and practice. You can learn quite a bit about how to get good shots by reading books and online. I don't recommend rushing out and buying a new setup without first learning the basics, and buy then you will probably have a good idea of what more you need. And start saving up for new stuff.

Intermediate camera body; Nikon D7100, a 70-200 f/2.8 lens, and a Nikon Speedlight if you want to start pricing stuff. Look for clean, well-cared-for used equipment to save significant money.

D7100 used, around $700
70-200 f2.8 around $700
SB-910 used around $300
Couple of SD cards $100