Small size "Darkroom"?

[Designer]

I once helped a dentist build a custom darkroom in his basement. We made a large plywood sink that was big enough to hold his trays. Door seal to block the light. Enlarger table and storage.

 

[KmH]

Back in the day, I just threw a towel on the floor at the bottom of the bathroom (no window) door, and used the bathroom to develop and print.

 

[tevo]

Back in the day, I just threw a towel on the floor at the bottom of the bathroom (no window) door, and used the bathroom to develop and print.

This is likely what I will do.

 

[tevo]

Thank you all for your advice, I now have an idea as to where I will be going next. It looks like an Epson V500 is very affordable. Does anyone have an insight on scanning negatives?

 

[smithdan]

Scanning negs pretty straightforward. You tube has videos that are helpful and the scanner comes with lots of info. Start with the auto settings then like anything else try custom settings and keep notes on results. Most important to keep notes on the film development step as well. Must stress that all the magic of the scanner and editing won't correct a poorly exposed or developed negative.

A darkroom is more than a luxury. It's nice to have a dedicated space for obvious reasons no matter what the pastime. Later you may want to do some enlarging and printing but for now any totally dark space with a handy 2'x2' clear spot for the tank and a pair of scissors will do. Practice with some scrap film with the light then go for it. Im sure you can find someone in your area who would be happy to show you the moves

 

[Rick58]

Back in the day, I just threw a towel on the floor at the bottom of the bathroom (no window) door, and used the bathroom to develop and print.

This is likely what I will do.

One of my past set up's was like this accept I had the luxury of having a closet in the bathroom that was big enough for a small cart on wheels. Everything was on the cart including the enlarger. I would slide two pieces of 4x4 lumber under the cart to get it off it's wheels for stabilization. It worked ok, but I'll tell ya, once you have a dedicated darkroom, you'll never go back and you'll use it twice as often.

 

[Compaq]

One thing about loading plastic reels. It can be the most irritating step of the process, unless you do this!

When you've exposed your film, and start reeling it back, leave a couple of cm out of the canister. This you can use to drag the film out once in the darkroom. You cut off the end in the light, and get the tip onto the reel in the light. Then, once you switch off the light, all you basically need to do is to twist the reel and get it on. The only downside to this method is, as far as I can see, the danger of scratching the film slightly when dragging it out of the canister during reel loading. Probably "safer" to open the canister up and do it as he did in the video, but everything go so swiftly when I do what I've outlined.

Ohh, and keep your chemical closet tidy. I die a little every time I go get mine in the uni darkroom closet, as it's full of old, used chemicals that haven't been used in 5-8 years! I've cleaned much out, and still it's bad.

 

[orlovphoto]

Hi there,

I would be happy to show you how to develop and print when I come back up to San Jose - in San Diego now. If you follow the link in my signature you will find the Mobile Darkroom I built in a school bus - one of its aims is helping people set up darkroom spaces so they keep 'doing it the old-school way'

Follow the blog, or find Photo Palace on facebook (ooooohhh dirty word here I know, but really - I'm more used to keeping tabs on things through there, and especially when I'm on the road I might not be checking in here as often.... freaking blog to update, plans to hopefully condense and so on....)

BTW - Steel tanks are WAY better! I understand some people are not as comfortable with them because your fingers actually have to do most of the work, so if you know that you can not perform small fine tasks with your fingers go with plastic. Otherwise, if you are pretty dexterous, go with steel - they are plain and simply better.

 

[bsinmich]

I have gotten to Like the Patterson reels. The reels will adjust for 35mm & 120 for me. The tank will hold 2 35s or 1 120. Larger tanks are available for doing more at one time. My only objection to the Patterson is the volumes of chemicals. It is 17.5 OZ. for 2 35 rolls and the FR tank uses 16 oz for the same. Thinking in terms of pts. qts., etc I like the 16 oz. Even the metric litres don't divide out to 17.5 oz. The reels are very easy to load especially someone who has diabetc neuropathy in my fingers.

 

[Rick58]

I have gotten to Like the Patterson reels. The reels will adjust for 35mm & 120 for me. The tank will hold 2 35s or 1 120. Larger tanks are available for doing more at one time. My only objection to the Patterson is the volumes of chemicals. It is 17.5 OZ. for 2 35 rolls and the FR tank uses 16 oz for the same. Thinking in terms of pts. qts., etc I like the 16 oz. Even the metric litres don't divide out to 17.5 oz. The reels are very easy to load especially someone who has diabetc neuropathy in my fingers.

Good post. I always liked the Patterson tanks /reels myself. loading is very simple as long as they are dry.

 

[Josh66]

My only objection to the Patterson is the volumes of chemicals. It is 17.5 OZ. for 2 35 rolls and the FR tank uses 16 oz for the same. Thinking in terms of pts. qts., etc I like the 16 oz. Even the metric litres don't divide out to 17.5 oz.

The volumes on the bottom of the tank are minimums - it will hold more than that. Just round up till it gets to an easy number to work with. More developer in the tank never hurts anyway.

I use 600mL for two 35mm rolls, 500mL for one 120 roll, and anywhere between 300 and 600mL for one 35mm roll depending on the developer.

 

[Rick58]

I loaded reels with a old rolls of film and filled the tank in daylight with water. Then I poured the water into my beaker and marked the beaker accordingly. I used a different color tape for 35mm and 120. This way I always used the same volumn of developer for consistency.

 

[nycphotography]

Film used to come with a developing chart with times and temperatures. Even if it no longer does, I'm sure the manufacturer's web site would provide one. They usually indicate an optimum, which as Molitor says is mostly 68F, but there may be films out there that have a different one. In any event, a degree or two one way or the other should give you good results as long as you adjust the time accordingly.

The "developer" comes w/ a dilution x time x temp x film chart.

Generally you try to adjust dilution and time while holding temp constant.

Each developer has a different chart for each film.

B&W, targeting 68f is good, because your house is usually between 67 and 75 most of the year.

Edit: found a copy of the Ilford charts here.

 

[nycphotography]

One thing about loading plastic reels. It can be the most irritating step of the process, unless you do this!

When you've exposed your film, and start reeling it back, leave a couple of cm out of the canister. This you can use to drag the film out once in the darkroom. You cut off the end in the light, and get the tip onto the reel in the light. Then, once you switch off the light, all you basically need to do is to twist the reel and get it on. The only downside to this method is, as far as I can see, the danger of scratching the film slightly when dragging it out of the canister during reel loading. Probably "safer" to open the canister up and do it as he did in the video, but everything go so swiftly when I do what I've outlined.

Ohh, and keep your chemical closet tidy. I die a little every time I go get mine in the uni darkroom closet, as it's full of old, used chemicals that haven't been used in 5-8 years! I've cleaned much out, and still it's bad.

Just practice w/ a reel of unexposed film with the lights on, and closing your eyes. Do it over and over until you can do it stone cold. After an hour of practising, you'll never have a problem working in the dark.

Here's a tip nobody ever told me: The plastic film reels will "walk" the film on for you. You hold one side (kinda pinching film to reel) and twist one way, then hold the other side and twist the other way, repeat, repeat, repeat.

This way the friction of the reel works for you rather than against you, winding the film on all by itself. It makes a big difference w/ 35mm, and a HUGE difference w/ 120/220.

God I can't believe I still remember that after 10 years of not touching film!

 

[Rick58]

"Here's a tip nobody ever told me: The plastic film reels will "walk" the film on for you. You hold one side (kinda pinching film to reel) and twist one way, then hold the other side and twist the other way, repeat, repeat, repeat."

I'm not sure how else you would load a plastic reel without this ratching motion. :scratch: