Softbox choice.

[simion]

Hey guys,

I'm not entirely sure this is the right thread to post into, but...
I'm looking for a softbox. I will use it for portraits, outside, in combination with natural light. To it, will be attached an SB-800, and a reflector will also be used if necessary.

What i want from it: Be portable. most important thing. I will carry it along with a nikon d90, 2 lenses, flash, very large diffuser (although it's packed in a pretty manageable size, i still have to carry it in my hand though). I also want it to be pretty cheap (yes, you get what you paid for, but it's my first softbox, so..). Also, i want it to be from an UK website. Hope that's not too much to ask for.

So far, i've seen this , and i already ordered this flash shoe holder .
Apart from the softbox, i guess i would also need a lightstand. is that right? yeah, i think so. Therefore, i'd also like a recommendation for a portable lightstand

Thanks a lot in advance!

 

[KmH]

Not all softboxes are designed to be used with speedlights. Most softboxes use proprietary speedrings that work with specific makes of studio lights.

Since light modifier size determines the type of shots the modifier can be used for, photographers usually have many sizes and shapes to choose from.

24" is fairly small, unless all you are shooting is head shots.

Umbrellas are a lot less expensive, particularly on a size to cost basis. You might want to consider an umbrella/softbox cross, like the Photek Softlighter II, 46" Umbrella with Diffuser.

Next a speedlight does not make a lot of light, and some portion of the light the speedlight makes never gets out of the softbox to where you want the light.

Impact and Interfit are inexpensive light stand brands - Interfit COR751 8.5 Foot 4 Section Air Damped Stand (Black)
I don't recommend get any light stand that goes up less than 8 feet.

You will need weights to keep a light stand and light modifier from being blown over by light winds or knocked over by someone bumping onto the stand. I often used ankle weights intended for exercise use to weight my light duty light stands.

 

[simion]

Thank you for your response!
Yes, i understand that speedlite softboxes are much as good as proper studio ones.

Ah. i've never experimented with softbox sizes, so thanks for that. Also, that seems an interesting product, but strictly between a softbox and an umbrella (same sizes) what would you choose?
The light stand looks good. nice and compact, thanks!

Edit: What would you guys say about this? . on the bottom of the page it says "Standard S-type mount, which is the most universal for most studio flashes". Does it mean strobes or simple speedlites?
Sorry for being so newb on this end.

 

[Derrel]

A 24 inch softbox is relatively "small", and does not offer much "spread" of light with a speedlight as the power source. For actually "lighting up a scene", as opposed to lighting up a HEADHSHOT, I would suggest a 40 to 45 in ch sized umbrella. The Photek Softlighter II that KmH is suggesting has one serious,serious problem; it is an expensive and top-quality enclosed umbrellas box, which functions a LOT like the Lastolite Umbrella Box. The serious problem with the Softlighter??? Once you buy one, it makes the light from cheap-o, shoot-thrus look like cr@), by way of comparison.

As to the 40x40 inch square softbox...looks like it would be better for larger subjects than the small 24x24 inch model.

I dunno...I think umbrellas can work well with speedlights. I don't think of speedlights + softboxes, but then, that's "me". I prefer reflecting umbrellas, and like the Photoflex brand of "convertible" umbrellas, with a satin-y, white/silverish interior and a black backing, used as a cover, with the flash aimed into the bowl, and the light "reflected" to the subject. I also have some white, fully opaque, "dull white" liner umbrellas with solid,fully opaque black backs, and those are also very nice. I occasionally like to use SILVERED umbrellas, with a "metallized" silver interior (the Speedotron brand "Super Silver" model umbrella--these are SUPERB when the images are going to be Black & White. B&W images can benefirt from a snappier, more-specular lighting source, since there is NO COLOR, and the images can benefit from light that defines shape more so than light that is best-suited for lighting RGB color images.

In terms of use with speedlights, I find that 30 to 40 inch umbrellas are quite nice; I think the idea of the 60-inch umbrellas for use with a speedlight to be kind of off the wall, for lack of a better term.

 

[simion]

Hmm, well, since umbrellas are so cheap, i might buy an umbrella even if i get the softbox, just to test out the differences between them.

However, strictly for lighting my subject, would you recommend a 30" umbrella, or the 40" softbox

That's the last questions, i promise :3

 

[MK3Brent]

I have a Fotodiox softbox, 36x48".

The coverage of a 36x48 is very good for portraits.
It is kind of a pain in the ass to setup/breakdown and move on.
If I could do it again, I'd get one of those collapsable type.

I also have a 24x24", and it's pretty good for portraits also.

 

[Derrel]

Hmm, well, since umbrellas are so cheap, i might buy an umbrella even if i get the softbox, just to test out the differences between them.

However, strictly for lighting my subject, would you recommend a 30" umbrella, or the 40" softbox

That's the last questions, i promise :3

There is no "right or wrong" answer to your question. Not sure what your subject is, nor what the shooting environment/background is/are like...

If "your subject" is a head and shoulders portrait, and I wanted a nice round catchlight in the eyes, I would use an umbrella. If I wanted a square catchlight, the sotbox would be my choice. If I were shooting say, a camera and a 3-lens outfit to sell on e-Bay, I would most likely select the softbox. If I wanted to light up a small office, I would probably go for the umbrella.

 

[simion]

Oh thanks a lot everyone!
In the end, i will buy the 40x40in softbox, and a 34" umbrella in the near future after that (since they're so cheap!)

 

[jwbryson1]

If "your subject" is a head and shoulders portrait, and I wanted a nice round catchlight in the eyes, I would use an umbrella. If I wanted a square catchlight, the sotbox would be my choice.

In the end, isn't the softbox known to produce softer, more manageable light than the umbrellas? I thought that was the point of getting the softbox over the umbrellas--you could better direct the light and the light is softer...

 

[Big Mike]

If you want to use a large softbox or especially an umbrella outdoors, you are going to need a V.A.L. A voice activated light stand (an assistant).

 

[Big Mike]

If "your subject" is a head and shoulders portrait, and I wanted a nice round catchlight in the eyes, I would use an umbrella. If I wanted a square catchlight, the sotbox would be my choice.

In the end, isn't the softbox known to produce softer, more manageable light than the umbrellas? I thought that was the point of getting the softbox over the umbrellas--you could better direct the light and the light is softer...

The only way to make a light source softer, is to make it larger, relative to the subject...so bigger or closer. An umbrella that is larger than a softbox will produce softer light at the same distance. So no, a softbox isn't known to produce 'softer' light.

Now, there are many characteristics of a softbox that might be preferable. An umbrella tends to spread the light out over a great area and/or they tend to spill light in areas you may not want. A softbox makes it easier to constrain the light, especially if you use a grid on the front of it.

However, most softboxes are a lot more expensive than most umbrellas. Also, a typical softbox is much more complicated to set up and therefore they take longer and can be a PITA. An umbrella folds/rolls up into a nice compact tube shape, great for transport and easy set up.

Also to be considered is the 'quality' of the light they produce. This can be very complicated because every combination of light and modifier will give you something different. Sometimes it's very subtle, sometimes it's very blatant. It's hard to explain, you really have to use these things a lot before you can see and differentiate one from another.