Sorry, I try to keep one question a day..

[cgipson1]

DOF... same as backgrounds.....

So if I can do backgrounds, surely I can do foreground.

Maybe! Requires a very narrow DOF, and good control... feet are a lot closer than most backgrounds are.

 

[table1349]

This can make it easier.
Online Depth of Field Calculator

 

[MTVision]

So if I can do backgrounds, surely I can do foreground.

Yep. Same thing.

Look up a DOF calculator. It will help

 

[table1349]

This can make it easier.
Online Depth of Field Calculator

So if I can do backgrounds, surely I can do foreground.

Yep. Same thing.

Look up a DOF calculator. It will help

Beat ya too it. Nanny nanny needer needer.:smileys:

 

[luvmyfamily]

So if I can do backgrounds, surely I can do foreground.

Yep. Same thing.

Look up a DOF calculator. It will help

I bookmarked Gryph's link on the calculator. I guess I should stay off here and read. Whew...pretty soon you all are going to start asking that I send payment via paypal for too many questions

 

[KmH]

Normally 1/3 in front and 2/3 behind.

That's way to simplistic, and the word 'normally' is very misleading.

Actually the distribution of the depth of field varies by lens focal length, the lens aperture used, and the focus point distance.

For example, the very common 50 mm f/1.8 set to f/2 or f/16 and focused at 5 feet has a DoF distribution of 49% in front, 51% behind. But at f/22 and 5 feet the DoF distribution has changed to 37% in front and 63% behind.

Change the focus point to 10 feet away, and the DOF distibution changes more radically with a smaller lens aperture.

 

[Derrel]

A 105mm to 135mm prime, like a Nikon or Canon f/2 model, is very good for this kind of stuff when shot at about f/2.5 to f/2.8, with either a crop-body or FX size camera. At longer ranges, a 200mm to 300mm focal length, f/4 to f/5.6, will have pretty shallow DOF,and the foregrounds will be OOF on a seated person photo with either APS-C or FX cameras.

 

[Dominantly]

I'll throw in that you should be deciding on where the focus is, and not letting the camera decide. I use a manual focus point, so in this scenario I would frame the shot, then use the control pad to move the focal plane to the face, and then continue with the shot.

 

[Tee]

I'll throw in that you should be deciding on where the focus is, and not letting the camera decide. I use a manual focus point, so in this scenario I would frame the shot, then use the control pad to move the focal plane to the face, and then continue with the shot.

Yep. Same thing I do. In my example below, focus is on the eyes. Look how close the shallow DoF on the brick comes to her hands. I think I shot this at 2.8. If she was in the position you described, her feet leading to her head would be blurred. A DoF calculator app is very handy when on location.