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Sports Photography 101 for C&C

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I've quite suddenly and unexpectedly become a Soccer Mom to a 16-year-old girl. This is especially surprising because I only have two children--both boys, both in college now. :D
The girl is my niece and for reasons beyond the scope of this thread, she has come to live with me and my two siblings here in town for the next two years. Since I'm the soccer expert, having playing keeper from high school until age 30 (and even then only quit because, evidently, they frown on pregnant women playing goalkeeper. Go figure) I get to be the designated Soccer Mom. My niece has been playing since she was 5, and hopes to get a scholarship to play in college.
I love my sister's description of my niece's interest in soccer: "By "plays soccer," I, of course, mean that she lives, eats, dreams, and thinks soccer day and night. She plays soccer the way that velociraptors hunt for food." :lol:

So, that's how I came to decide that THIS is the time to work on my sports photography skills. Fortunately, I LOVE sports, pretty much all sports, but especially BOTH kinds of football--American football and what we Americans call soccer.
unfortunately, loving and knowing the game does NOT mean you will be skilled at photographing the game.
But--I have all season to improve.

I got some pointers from MLeek before heading out to my first game--due to a comedy of errors, I got to that game with about 3 minutes left. Took a few pictures, evaluated them and then bent MLeek's ear a little more. Okay, a LOT more. :D THANKS, MLeek!

Got to do the first full game night before last. Conditions weren't great--storm rolling in, bad lighting, horrible distracting backgrounds everywhere. Oh, and amateur photographer.

We head to a tournament in Atlanta tomorrow--I doubt I'll be able to get on the field for that, or even very close, but you never know. Next local game will be next Thursday.
Any C&C to improve will be appreciated.

These are what I would consider...well, not the BEST of my results--more like, the least bad of my results...so far. If you're a glutton for punishment you can see more on my Flicker page.

1. ISO640, f/5.6, 1/400, 92mm focal length


2. same EXIF as 1



3. all same EXIF data except 150mm focal length


4. ISO800, f/5.6, 1/400, 220mm focal length
Not technically one of the best results, but I liked the emotion on the girls' faces


EDIT: Shooting with a Nikon D5100, Nikkor 55-300 f/4-5.6 lens
 
When you compose or crop the pictures don't try to make the players straight. Use those elements in the backgrounds, even the bourred ones, to level out your images. This will give the players a natural athletic lean.

They came out pretty good for the lighting conditions you described.

Try getting behind the end line, this will get the action coming at you and will give some distance to those distracting backgrounds that will soften them some more. If you are shooting side line to side line, then look for the action on your side of the field and try to shoot with a larger aperture. Usually if you stay at least 2 yards off the line you are ok when shooting from there.
 
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When you compose or crop the pictures don't try to make the players straight. Use those elements in the backgrounds, even the bourred ones, to level out your images. This will give the players a natural athletic lean.

They came out pretty good for the lighting conditions you described.

Try getting behind the end line, this will get the action coming at you and will give some distance to those distracting backgrounds that will soften them some more. If you are shooting side line to side line, then look for the action on your side of the field and try to shoot with a larger aperture. Usually if you stay at least 2 yards off the line you are ok when shooting from there.

Thanks, Tony!
No straightening was done to any of these, player OR horizons. But perhaps if I went back and DID straighten a strong background line, it would help with the "athletic lean" you mention.

Lighting conditions: These are all from the first half. The second half netted almost no decent exposures--much of that was because, it turns out, I am afraid of my ISO dial. :lol: I guess it goes back to my film days but I just have a terrible, terrible time forcing myself to use high ISOs. If I get to 800, I start to break out in a sweat. I finally pushed it to 1600 by the end of the game, which was still not enough, but that made me actually break out in hives. :lol: Okay, NOT *actually*.
Next night game, I *am* going to use whatever ISO I need to--but honestly, I think my blood pressure just went up a little, just thinking about it. :D

We weren't allowed behind the end lines at all--well, long enough to switch sides, but not to stop and take photos. Once I've done it a few times, I'll know whether I can sneak a few in or not.
I was shooting with the largest aperture available for that lens at the focal lengths I was using--well, mostly. I did try stopping down a little a few times, because in my first attempts (the 3 minutes I caught of the first game) I had some really horrible focus issues. I think MOST of those issues were more not knowing what to focus on though, than being wide open, and MLeek helped with what to focus on, so I *think* these were at least a slight improvement.

One of the biggest things that I did NOT do is sticking to action on my side of the field, as you suggested. I knew I *should*, but I would get caught up in the action and shoot when they were just too far away. Next time, I'm going to try to remember that advice a little more.
 
These are far better than what you told me! I really like the first one!!
 
I think you did well on these, there is still room for you to crop them a little more, take out a little more background. The horizon line should always be straight as mentioned. If sports are played on flat horizontal surfaces then the surface should stay that way. I like them all.
 
I like all of them. I too just started trying to shoot some soccer, my daughter started coaching her old highschool team, so out came the camera. I had to say it's alot easier than hockey, they don't move as fast LOL. As an ex-keeper you know the game, try to anticipate where the play is going and have you tried burst mode, I know it helped me with my sons hockey pictures. I didn't try it myself yet for her soccer team but I'm planning on trying it at the next game, you'll just end up with more pictures to sort through in PP. That was it, my one any only tip, LOL, other than practice, practice, practice. i think i'm at the end of the first practice only two more to go.
Regards Charlie
 
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These are far better than what you told me! I really like the first one!!

Thanks!! Cropping helped my attitude about those backgrounds a little. :D
The first one is the one I told you was my favorite, but it shows my niece clearly just attempting to shove the other girl out of the way. On the other hand, the next photo shows the other girl giving back as good as she got, so it's all good. :lol:
 
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I think you did well on these, there is still room for you to crop them a little more, take out a little more background. The horizon line should always be straight as mentioned. If sports are played on flat horizontal surfaces then the surface should stay that way. I like them all.

Thanks; I've seen your sports stuff too, so that means a lot that you think they don't stink! I agree about the cropping--I was mostly keeping the original aspect ratio in these (for no particular reason, other my OCD tendencies), but I need to work on just cropping them to what fits the photo best.

That horizon line I definitely need to pay more attention to! It's not usually a problem for me as I'd normally level my horizon before I take the shot, but with sports I find myself only paying attention to the action or players and not to the horizon.

Question for MLeek and Imagemaker (and other experienced sport shooters)--Are ya'll just that good that you keep your horizons straight while shooting action like that? Or do you have to straighten a lot in post? Is it something you just get used to?
It's become fairly automatic for me to quickly level the horizon in other types of photography, but I just found myself not thinking about during the game.
 
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I like all of them. I too just started trying to shoot some soccer, my daughter started coaching her old highschool team, so out came the camera. I had to say it's alot easier than hockey, they don't move as fast LOL. As an ex-keeper you know the game, try to anticipate where the play is going and have you tried burst mode, I know it helped me with my sons hockey pictures. I didn't try it myself yet for her soccer team but I'm planning on trying it at the next game, you'll just end up with more pictures to sort through in PP. That was it, my one any only tip, LOL, other than practice, practice, practice. i think i'm at the end of the first practice only two more to go.
Regards Charlie

Burst mode is *definitely* helpful! I didn't think about in during those three minutes I was shooting the first game, and I missed most all of the action shots. I'd get a girl still up in the air from heading the ball, but the ball was already out of the frame.
With the continuous shooting mode, I had a way better chance of getting some decent actions. Still missed most of the "perfect moments" but that will come with time. Maybe. :D
 
but at least I do shoot raw.

Shooting RAW is the savior for us with non-pro-budgets :)

Are ya'll just that good that you keep your horizons straight while shooting action like that? Or do you have to straighten a lot in post? Is it something you just get used to?

I have been shooting my kids sports for close to 10 years... and i still have to straighten in post. I try to focus on my subject first.. camera settings second.. and the horizon last (lightroom can fix the last 2 :) )

The 55-300 isn't known to be a fast focusing lens.... I think you did a great job.

I will warn you about 'Lensicitis' though. It's VERY common for people who shoot sports and its also very expensive (and not covered by most insurance). It starts with an upgrade to the 70-300 VR.. Then maybe an offbrand f/2.8.. Next thing you know your kids don't have any more college money and you need a bigger car for your equipment but you had to sell that SUV for a Nikon 400mm f/2.8. It's sad... I've seen it happen. I'm not sure there is a cure.
 
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The 55-300 isn't known to be a fast focusing lens.... I think you did a great job.

I will warn you about 'Lensicitis' though. It's VERY common for people who shoot sports and its also very expensive (and not covered by most insurance). It starts with an upgrade to the 70-300 VR.. Then maybe an offbrand f/2.8.. Next thing you know your kids don't have any more college money and you need a bigger car for your equipment but you had to sell that SUV for a Nikon 400mm f/2.8. It's sad... I've seen it happen. I'm not sure there is a cure.

Oh, I'm already "et up" with that disease (as my father would have said..."eaten up" for those who are still confused :D )! I'm skipping the 70-300 and aiming straight at the 70-200 f/2.8. I have serious lust in my heart for that lens. I just don't have any serious money in my budget! :lol:
One mom, two boys in college = No 2.8 lens in your future. I don't even have a rich old uncle or crazy aunt to die and leave me millions...or thousands...or hundreds.
Really, I'd best just get good at using that 55-300! I'm lucky I even have it, it took a swim in a local lake on Memorial Day. Amazingly, I got it dried out and working again. Then it started acting really crazy; sometimes it would work, sometimes not--if not, no amount of taking it off and putting it back on would make the camera recognize it. I was sure it was about done for. That's actually why pixmedic gave me the Tamron 28-300 he donated. But ever since I got the Tamron, the 55-300 has worked like a charm! I think it's afraid of being replaced.
I'm saving the Tamron to pass on to my son, when I can afford to put a camera body with it.
 
Not having the funds myself... I traded my way up to the Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 over a few years.. It is possible to make 'little jumps' that do improve your lenses.

If you can swing it (and find one).. I would HIGHLY recommend the Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 HSMII (the non-os version). It's been discontinued, but can be found used for around $550US.

I used one all last year shooting pee-wee and high school football, Indoor high school basketball and indoor pee-wee football. For the price its hard to find a better lens. It's not Nikon quality at f/2.8.. but its still usable.


f/3.2 @ 200mm
a1-3.jpg

Inside a very DARK indoor football field... f/3.2 @ 200mm
indoor-4.jpg


It stayed on my camera 99% of the time...
molly.jpg


Edit* not sure why my dog showed up twice.. :S.. oh well.
 

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I think you did well on these, there is still room for you to crop them a little more, take out a little more background. The horizon line should always be straight as mentioned. If sports are played on flat horizontal surfaces then the surface should stay that way. I like them all.

Thanks; I've seen your sports stuff too, so that means a lot that you think they don't stink! I agree about the cropping--I was mostly keeping the original aspect ratio in these (for no particular reason, other my OCD tendencies), but I need to work on just cropping them to what fits the photo best.

That horizon line I definitely need to pay more attention to! It's not usually a problem for me as I'd normally level my horizon before I take the shot, but with sports I find myself only paying attention to the action or players and not to the horizon.

Question for MLeek and Imagemaker (and other experienced sport shooters)--Are ya'll just that good that you keep your horizons straight while shooting action like that? Or do you have to straighten a lot in post? Is it something you just get used to?
It's become fairly automatic for me to quickly level the horizon in other types of photography, but I just found myself not thinking about during the game.

I'm notorious at keeping my horizons straight while I'm shooting, and for the most part I don't worry about it, things happen so fast in sports that concentrating on something that can be fixed quickly in post has never bothered me. Even back in the film days I was always going off. There are also times when the background has poles or fences and they may not be straight in relation to the horizontal lines, I usually take the strongest horizontal point to keep even. There are times if the image is really tight that the room just isn't there to straighten the background without cropping too much, when that happen I just do what I can to make it look right.
 

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