Starter Hasselblad. Ideas?

myopia · Nov 22, 2008

I have a mamiya 645 w/ Sekor-C 80mm lens, but the lens has been dropped and does not focus easily (not at all) and the shutter sometimes sticks and leaves me with half and half frames.
I like the system and am considering upgrading to a Hasselblad. 500cm? Is the 500c cheaper? I will probably be using the Zeiss Planar-T 80mm/2.8 with it.
Is this a good starter kit?
Thanks.

Paul Ron · Nov 23, 2008

Check out KEH n buy a new used lens for your M645 at 1/10 the cost of buying an old junker Hussy in your price range. The lenses are very expensive, the backs will cost you an arm n a leg... repairs aren't cheap n they all do need repairs.

The best buys in MF... RB67, the tank of MF, the Bronica ETRS with least amount of repairs n the best price in the used camera n accessories in the market.

myopia · Nov 23, 2008

Paul Ron said:
Check out KEH n buy a new used lens for your M645 at 1/10 the cost of buying an old junker Hussy in your price range. The lenses are very expensive, the backs will cost you an arm n a leg... repairs aren't cheap n they all do need repairs.

The best buys in MF... RB67, the tank of MF, the Bronica ETRS with least amount of repairs n the best price in the used camera n accessories in the market.

Thanks for the advice.

christopher walrath · Nov 25, 2008

I can't any Hasselblad being considered a 'Starter Kit'. But what a system to acquire. Go for it! Don't hold back. You and your G.A.S. will thank you for it.

compur · Nov 26, 2008

myopia said:
I have a mamiya 645 w/ Sekor-C 80mm lens, but the lens has been dropped and does not focus easily (not at all) and the shutter sometimes sticks and leaves me with half and half frames.
I like the system and am considering upgrading to a Hasselblad. 500cm? Is the 500c cheaper? I will probably be using the Zeiss Planar-T 80mm/2.8 with it.
Is this a good starter kit?
Thanks.

If you're on a budget you might want to check out the prices on Hasselblad
lenses before buying into that system. They cost substantially more than
lenses for the major Japanese MF cameras.

nealjpage · Nov 26, 2008

To play devil's advocate: Some would argue that now is the time to get into very good Hassy gear at rock bottom prices. When else could someone have picked up an entire Hassy kit for less than two grand?

Jeff Canes · Nov 26, 2008

A Hasselblad starter kit would be a body (500/CM/Classic ), 80mm lens, 120 back and a waist level finder you should be able pick one up on ebay for around $800 US

epatsellis · Nov 27, 2008

I have both RB67s and Hasseys, I recently sold my 500c/m and most of the lenses, as I found that I hardly used them. The only Hassey I have is an EL with a 150 Sonnar, I use it mostly for portrait work. My net cost was negative, I made money selling my others and don't feel bad keeping this one.

The RBs go everywhere, and I run about 10-20 rolls a week through them, they are more cost effective and produce an image just as good as the Hassy does, and for 8x10 and non square prints, the difference in enlargement makes a huge difference.

ksmattfish · Dec 20, 2008

myopia said:
I like the system and am considering upgrading to a Hasselblad. 500cm? Is the 500c cheaper?

The 500c is older, and usually slightly cheaper. The difference is that with the c/m the focusing screens are easily interchangable, and the A backs will automatically wind to the first frame and stop. With the c you have to watch for the #1, and stop winding on your own.

djacobox372 · Jan 29, 2009

Seriously why not just buy another mamiya 645.... it's not like hasselblad's are immune to malfunction.

IMO hasselblad's are to mamiya's as rollies are to yashica's: they are much more expensive, look prettier and make you feel special, but they take the same photos, and are no more reliable.

myopia · Jan 31, 2009

djacobox372 said:
IMO hasselblad's are to mamiya's as rollies are to yashica's: they are much more expensive, look prettier and make you feel special, but they take the same photos, and are no more reliable.

Except they don't take the same photos...

epatsellis · Jan 31, 2009

I'm sure I'll get flamed, but....

Owning both Hassy and RB67's, yes, they're different, but the Hassy isn't always the clear winner. It comes down to what you shoot, and the most appropriate tool for the job. For larger enlargements, close to a 4x5 aspect ratio, the RB is the clear winner. (6x7 vs 6x4.5 or so after cropping). For square, it's a tossup. Yes, the Zeiss lenses are sharper, but is your tripod, technique and film up to the task? Any time I shoot with either, I'm resolution limited by my film choice, not the lens. I have shot (and made plenty of money) with both, and continue to do so.

One thing to consider, the RB has the best damped mirror in the MF world, with the possible exception of the RZ. the hassy has a habit of setting some tripods into resonance.

duncanp · Feb 17, 2009

epatsellis said:
I'm sure I'll get flamed, but....

Owning both Hassy and RB67's, yes, they're different, but the Hassy isn't always the clear winner. It comes down to what you shoot, and the most appropriate tool for the job. For larger enlargements, close to a 4x5 aspect ratio, the RB is the clear winner. (6x7 vs 6x4.5 or so after cropping). For square, it's a tossup. Yes, the Zeiss lenses are sharper, but is your tripod, technique and film up to the task? Any time I shoot with either, I'm resolution limited by my film choice, not the lens. I have shot (and made plenty of money) with both, and continue to do so.

One thing to consider, the RB has the best damped mirror in the MF world, with the possible exception of the RZ. the hassy has a habit of setting some tripods into resonance.

no need to flame that, all seems perfectly vaild

epatsellis · Feb 17, 2009

ksmattfish said:
The 500c is older, and usually slightly cheaper. The difference is that with the c/m the focusing screens are easily interchangable, and the A backs will automatically wind to the first frame and stop. With the c you have to watch for the #1, and stop winding on your own.

Just a couple of points of clarification in case somebody down the road considers a Hassy:

1.) The 500C and the 500C/M (and 500EL and 500EL/M), only major difference is the user changeable screen. Other than that, they are exactly the same (though earlier C's have a body sync connection that fires when the rear curtains are fully open) I use a 500EL frequently, and I have no problem using it, in fact if durability is a consideration, my understanding is the transport of the EL/ELM is significantly more robust. And for about $5 you can convert them to run on a 9V battery.
In my opinion, the advantage of the Hassy is the extreme precision that they are manufactured/adjusted to, however that is also their biggest downfall, as they require regular maintenance or they get really finicky.

2.) Any back will work on any camera in the 500/200/2000 series, but not the 1000F/1600F which have their own backs(though they look almost identical) The original style backs (12, 16, 24) have a peephole, and an optional plug for 220 use. (no backing paper) The later "automatic" backs, typically called A12, A16 and A24, allow you to align a mark on the roll with a mark on the back, put the insert in and it will automatically stop at frame 1. After loading, there's no difference in operation. Personally, I prefer the A backs, as they tend to be in better condition. Plan on replacing the light seals on any back you buy, they're cheap ($12 from VH USA, don't bother with the scam artists on ebay) and if you are capable of minor mechanical work, they are simple to install yourself.

I'd suggest any potential Hassy buyer buy an used copy of the Hasselblad Compedium and the Wildi's Hasselblad Manual (earlier editions have more coverage of the older systems), inexpensive on Amazon, and will help you with the finer points and gotchas that can crop up.