Stitching Distorted Images..Help!

[D-B-J]

So, I love my Sigma 17-50 2.8, BUT, there is a fair amount of distortion at 17mm, and this makes it impossible to stitch images together into a panorama. Is there any simple way to correct this? Or do I need to zoom in (to say, 25-30mm) and just shoot a million more images? I've found many shots that yearn for a nice panorama, I just always seem to struggle with making it work. Any thoughts?

Best,
Jake


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[Designer]

You could correct the distortion in each photograph before stitching them. Not with a million shots, though.

 

[The_Traveler]

larger overlap?

 

[D-B-J]

What's the best program to remove distortion? I've tried it with LR5, and it didn't seem to work very well.

Jake

 

[480sparky]

Are you aiming the camera up or down? If so, things like buildings will be keystoned, and that keystoning will be different from one frame to the next. Aim the camera directly at the horizon.

 

[D-B-J]

Are you aiming the camera up or down? If so, things like buildings will be keystoned, and that keystoning will be different from one frame to the next. Aim the camera directly at the horizon.

I did try this, and it still was difficult. Later I can post an example (if I still have if) so you can see what I mean.

Jake


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[480sparky]

Is the distortion in the stitch only visible towards the ends of the image?

 

[D-B-J]

Is the distortion in the stitch only visible towards the ends of the image?

Yes


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[480sparky]

Shoot well beyond the planned ends of your final stitched image.

So, here's the scene you're standing at:

Let's say this is the final pano you want:

Then shoot it like this: (Red box, intended final image. Blue box, an individual frame)

Keep shooting left to right until you get well past the intended end of your final image:

This will give you plenty of data to work with, and prevent the distortion at the ends. You'll end up with a much wider and larger image to start with, but you can easily crop it down to what you want.

 

[D-B-J]

See, I was overlapping by probably a tenth of the frame. I'll have to give this a shot. Thanks!

Jake


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[480sparky]

If overlapping 1/10 of the frame is all your software needs, there's no need to change it.... you just need an extra frame at each end.

 

[D-B-J]

If overlapping 1/10 of the frame is all your software needs, there's no need to change it.... you just need an extra frame at each end.

I don't have any specific stitching software, I usually do it by hand. Do you have any recommendations??

Jake

 

[480sparky]

If overlapping 1/10 of the frame is all your software needs, there's no need to change it.... you just need an extra frame at each end.

I don't have any specific stitching software, I usually do it by hand. Do you have any recommendations??

Jake

Microsoft ICE.

 

[D-B-J]

Oh damn... I have a Mac.

Jake


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[18.percent.gary]

Hugin is the best I've come across so far. The interface is WAY too complex at first but after lots of trial and error I realized you only have to click the 3 basic buttons on the main screen to get awesome results. Just using default settings works great, somehow the software figures everything out for you. If you try it and can't figure out what to do let me know... it is confusing at first.

Hugin - Panorama photo stitcher