stuck aperture / 50mm 1.4 Sigma

Shutter speed isn't completely irrelevent in the studio, there's a max and a min. I usually shoot between 1/100 and 1/250 depending. Power down your strobes if you're still blowing out at 1/160 and F16. And at F16, you're going to have a much deeper DOF, which means your backdrop isn't going to fade out, which is what *I* usually shoot for. Obviously thats a personal thing though.
ETA- Post work, post processing, to get out wrinkles or a shoe mark or basically just not have the backdrop in focus.

Shutter speed IS pretty much irrelevant in the studio though. You don't have any need/want for ambient light if you're trying to control the strobes you've got. If you're shooting on location and want to balance ambient/strobe, it's important.

There really is no reason to shoot at 1/100 in a studio "just because" unless there's a specific efffect you're going for.
 
Did other people in the studio all shoot with aperture smaller than f/16? Really, why not dial down the strobes power and shoot with f/8 -f/11?
 
Shutter speed isn't completely irrelevent in the studio, there's a max and a min. I usually shoot between 1/100 and 1/250 depending. Power down your strobes if you're still blowing out at 1/160 and F16. And at F16, you're going to have a much deeper DOF, which means your backdrop isn't going to fade out, which is what *I* usually shoot for. Obviously thats a personal thing though.
ETA- Post work, post processing, to get out wrinkles or a shoe mark or basically just not have the backdrop in focus.

Shutter speed IS pretty much irrelevant in the studio though. You don't have any need/want for ambient light if you're trying to control the strobes you've got. If you're shooting on location and want to balance ambient/strobe, it's important.

There really is no reason to shoot at 1/100 in a studio "just because" unless there's a specific efffect you're going for.

Irrelevant meaning 125 or 160 kill the ambient and go on about our business. 1st thing when I walk in the door is hit 125 or 160, insure ISO is low and WB is set to the lights. Then we set exposure.
 
Did other people in the studio all shoot with aperture smaller than f/16? Really, why not dial down the strobes power and shoot with f/8 -f/11?

The pro was shooting for Fashion Frenzy magazine with same lighting set for him but his canon was at ISO 100, if i'm not mistaken he was at f/11 but don't quote me. I wasn't about to start tweaking on his lights and reflectors.
 
Hey 2wheel... I have to agree with the rest. The Sigma 50 is a great lens.. and I can't see needing F16 or greater in the studio. Outside, on a bright sunny day maybe. I think this lens was really designed as a inexpensive portrait lens.. and since you usually want a soft background in portraiture.. the larger apertures excel on this lens. Sounds like the lights were set a bit high.. as mentioned.
 
Did other people in the studio all shoot with aperture smaller than f/16? Really, why not dial down the strobes power and shoot with f/8 -f/11?

The pro was shooting for Fashion Frenzy magazine was shooting with same lighting set for him but his canon was at ISO 100, if i'm not mistaken he was at f/11 but don't quote me. I wasn't about to start tweaking on his lights and reflectors.

I see what you mean now. So basically lights were set and shared with few photographers. And since you cannot or do not want to change the power setting of the lights (that may affect others), so you decided to stop down your lens instead.

If they shoot with f/11, then 1 stop down to f/16 should work (iso100 vs iso200) But since it was overexposed with f/16 in your setup, so maybe they were using f/16.


Anyway, I do not think this situation happens all the times, right? If you really like the lens, why not just keep it?
 
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There's absolutely no reason to send the lens back, or be mad about "everyone else using their tiny 50 primes." I'm confused why you bought the $2k Nikkor 24-70, and the $500 Sigma 50/1.4 if you don't like using the 24-70, and the 50/1.4 isn't what you want. That being said, wouldn't the more simple thing be to turn the lights down? I mean, since they're at half power, set them to 1/4 power, and be at F/13. Or 1/8 power and be at F/9 (if I'm counting stops right from F/18 where you seem to want to be)? The Sigma 50/1.4 is a marvelous lens. Plenty for anyone looking for a 50/1.4. I, and many others, would say it's probably the best on the market. I wouldn't go condemning Sigma as a brand for making a marvelous lens..

Best of luck with your decision.
Mark

I love the 24-70 but its a boat anchor for all day in a studio, the others use 50 in there (and their 24-70 for events), and it was a pro shoot the lights were where the studio owner had them set and the creative director was good with it. I had a chance to shoot the model and it didn't work out. Honestly I didn't bring my 24-70 or it'd have been on my D700 body.

I never condemned the Sigma, just didn't realize the prime wouldn't go any lower. I'm a nooB student and never owned a prime. Its just nice to hang out with these guys on the shoots. And when I'm fortunate enough to shoot a model I can't do anything with the pics (or no one can), they belong to whoever is the customer for the upcoming whatever like magazine. I'm glad my f16 has been explained. Not sure if its going back or not because if its limited and my body is limited to ISO 200 and the rest are shooting 100 it may be an issue, its not my studio.
 
My Nikkor 50mm 1.4G only goes to f/16, so it's not just the Sigma.
 
My Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 has a minimum aperture of f/22.

HATERS GON' HATE
 
Looks like you'll have to ditch your Nikon gear to shoot at f/22 with a 50 f/1.4 in the studio 2Wheel...
 
Looks like you'll have to ditch your Nikon gear to shoot at f/22 with a 50 f/1.4 in the studio 2Wheel...

And I just wanted f18 so i shoot on the light that was there and others were shooting...I wasn't that greedy
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Btw, you can buy an ND filter too. You may need it in the future when you need to use the same lens shoot with shallow DoF outdoor around noon time when 1/4000 (or 1/8000, not sure about your camera) won't cut it.
 
Thanks, I have an ND for my 24-70 thats 77mm, I think that will fit it. I used to use it when cutting a few stops in the sun with the 24-70, perhaps now I'll screw it on in the studio next time I have an opportunity to sneak a shot or two behind the pro's doing the magazine shoot
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