The Caffenol Thread

[limr]

Yeah, I remember you posting that picture of Archie when you first did the fridge stand developing. What is the dilution for cold stand developing as opposed to room temp?

 

[gsgary]

Yeah, I remember you posting that picture of Archie when you first did the fridge stand developing. What is the dilution for cold stand developing as opposed to room temp?

The same 1+100

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[timor]

I do a 1 hour stand developement in the fridge with Rodinal

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Luckily you are not using MQ developers for that. By 17 C Quinol is not active anymore, by 10 C Metol is "dead".

 

[Josh66]

limr, you will probably find this book interesting:
The Darkroom Cookbook: Steve Anchell: 9780240810553: Amazon.com: Books

Lots of developer recipes, and just general tips. This book is where I first heard of "minimal agitation" (+50% the normal dev time, agitation for 1 minute, then 10 seconds every 3 minutes).

 

[limr]

My first push processing with Caffenol.

Lubitel 166B, Ilford Pan F, pushed about 1-2 stops. Development was (iirc) about 18 minutes in the Caffenol C recipe.





The double exposure I posted was also from that roll.



The second shot was obviously cropped down from 6x6, but other than that, I didn't do any level adjustment on any of these in post (also, as you can see, I didn't do anything to clone out the scratch marks the Lubitel apparently decided to leave on the film for the first time ever .) I can't remember if I did any exposure adjustment while scanning. I might have for the Chinatown shot, actually. Even pushed, that one was a tad underexposed. But not on the others.

 

[vintagesnaps]

I like the architectural shots but that second one is great, standing under Saint Joan looking down, and the way half the photo is sunlit and the other half is the subway in shade - unique photo.

What I'd seen of caffenol seemed mostly brownish, which can be cool if someone wants that look; I hadn't realized it could turn out actually this B&W. These turned out great.

I'm trying to think if I've seen something the opposite more or less of SpotTone, that would cover dark marks; for some reason I'm thinking I have... but straight lines like that would probably be a nightmare to try to touch up. I did get not too long ago something called an Photo Art Etcher that was apparently made to scrape marks off negatives, or maybe to scrape off whatever dark part of an image you didn't want?? I haven't tried it on anything yet (but I'm sure I have something that didn't turn out great that I could experiment on!); haven't figured out what exactly I'd use it for but one of those things I'll find a use for eventually.