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The Great Noise reduction challenge!

Curious that you're not posting these to examine at full-res.

Anyway, you're all workin' too hard.

Here's Photo Ninja/Noise Ninja.

Noise Ninja values:
Smoothing: 10
Residual Noise/Detail: 55
Color noise: 50
----------------------------
Sharpening: 85
radius .75

Hand off to Photoshop and resize to 1024 px then standard Smart Sharpen for web display.

Joe

noisy_rider.webp
 
I dunno. I ran it through elements (first time using it) and getting rid of the noise doesn't seem the only problem. But with all noise photos you can get rid of it but the photo still comes out looking chalky and fake. Even ysarex's version above (and I can assure you he and all of you are far better at pp than me) still looks chalky and fake with that processed look. .
 
Here's another one.

DxO 10: Raised the default Prime noise reduction from 40 to 50.
Activated default Unsharp Mask (normally default off).

Import to PhotoShop and resize to 1024 px and Smart Sharpen for web display.

Joe

noisy_rider2.webp
 
I dunno. I ran it through elements (first time using it) and getting rid of the noise doesn't seem the only problem. But with all noise photos you can get rid of it but the photo still comes out looking chalky and fake. Even ysarex's version above (and I can assure you he and all of you are far better at pp than me) still looks chalky and fake with that processed look. .

Try gimp or raw therapee
 
I dunno. I ran it through elements (first time using it) and getting rid of the noise doesn't seem the only problem. But with all noise photos you can get rid of it but the photo still comes out looking chalky and fake. Even ysarex's version above (and I can assure you he and all of you are far better at pp than me) still looks chalky and fake with that processed look. .

You're dealing with an extreme case -- out on the fringes. That's basically a 6 stop underexposure of the sensor in that photo. Back in the days of film a 3 stop underexposure went straight into the waste basket. So you have to temper your expectations here with the astonishment that there's an image recorded at all.

Joe
 
I dunno. I ran it through elements (first time using it) and getting rid of the noise doesn't seem the only problem. But with all noise photos you can get rid of it but the photo still comes out looking chalky and fake. Even ysarex's version above (and I can assure you he and all of you are far better at pp than me) still looks chalky and fake with that processed look. .

Try gimp or raw therapee
something because even after the elements edit it only saves as a .dng file. I don't even know what to do with that. why I didn't post it. if it isn't a jpeg tiff or raw I aint got a clue. what the hell is a .dng file other than the only option it gave me to save it as?
 
I tried one using Topaz Denoise and turning off the detail panel in camera raw, and it did a pretty good job, better than my previous post, IMO. Topaz is slow though, not sure if the time is worth the small benefit. So far to me the first DxO image looks the best, not as much melted look and cleanest.
 
I tried one using Topaz Denoise and turning off the detail panel in camera raw, and it did a pretty good job, better than my previous post, IMO. Topaz is slow though, not sure if the time is worth the small benefit. So far to me the first DxO image looks the best, not as much melted look and cleanest.

Caveat on that: DxO prime is amazing but it's got it's quirks. It really starts to fall down in the shadows faster than the competitors. It try's to posterize the low end -- in this case the rider's jacket. DxO doesn't support my main camera (Fuji) so I don't use it that often and maybe I'm missing a trick. I'll spend more time with it eventually but I haven't gotten around that problem so far.

Joe
 
Caveat on that: DxO prime is amazing but it's got it's quirks. It really starts to fall down in the shadows faster than the competitors. It try's to posterize the low end -- in this case the rider's jacket. DxO doesn't support my main camera (Fuji) so I don't use it that often and maybe I'm missing a trick. I'll spend more time with it eventually but I haven't gotten around that problem so far.

Joe

Joe,

Thanks for the nice description. There's some fairly hefty posterization in the horses shadow as well (both dxo edits)
 
Here's another one -- same idea -- see what the converter does.

This is Capture One (stronger on the detail and weaker on the noise smoothing) -- my preference.

So Capture One:
luminance noise to 90 (max is 100)
color noise to 50
detail to 10
sharpness to 180 (max is 1000)
radius .5

Sized in Photoshop and Smart Sharpen for web display.

Joe

noisy_rider3.webp
 
OK -- rolled up my sleeves on this next one and took the Capture One conversion from above.

Ran a dupe of it through Neat Image and knocked down the noise pretty hard.

Blended the dupe and the above C1 render so that the Neat Image noise reduction is applied to everything except the horse and the rider's face.

Joe

noisy_rider4.webp
 
Here's another one -- same idea -- see what the converter does.

This is Capture One (stronger on the detail and weaker on the noise smoothing) -- my preference.

So Capture One:
luminance noise to 90 (max is 100)
color noise to 50
detail to 10
sharpness to 180 (max is 1000)
radius .5

Sized in Photoshop and Smart Sharpen for web display.

Joe

View attachment 92348
that is what I have is capture one. I couldn't get it to load the raw from the canon. how did you get it to load it?
 
Here's another one.

DxO 10: Raised the default Prime noise reduction from 40 to 50.
Activated default Unsharp Mask (normally default off).

Import to PhotoShop and resize to 1024 px and Smart Sharpen for web display.

Joe

View attachment 92339
this is the cleanest by the looks of it.
 
Here's another one -- same idea -- see what the converter does.

This is Capture One (stronger on the detail and weaker on the noise smoothing) -- my preference.

So Capture One:
luminance noise to 90 (max is 100)
color noise to 50
detail to 10
sharpness to 180 (max is 1000)
radius .5

Sized in Photoshop and Smart Sharpen for web display.

Joe

View attachment 92348
that is what I have is capture one. I couldn't get it to load the raw from the canon. how did you get it to load it?

Open the program -- go to the Help menu -- Click on About and tell me what it says you have: description and build version.

Joe
 

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