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The Summer of Infrared: Houston and San Antonio

clarinetJWD

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It's been a while since I put up any images, but here we go again! These were all shot with an IR modified D70 body.

1. Wrong Side
wrong_side_frame.jpg


2. River Boat
river_boat_frame.jpg


3. On Fire
on_fire_frame.jpg


4. The Palm
the_palm_frame.jpg


5. Lounging
lounging_frame.jpg


6. Crane, Frame
frame_crane_frame.jpg
 
Very nice, I really like the first and the last shots. Especially that last one - nice juxtaposition between the old & new.
Thanks for sharing them.
 
Nice shots! Do you mind sharing about your IR modified D70 body? i.e. what modifications etc.
 
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Thanks :)

edddial: I used the IR filter from Life Pixel (http://www.lifepixel.com/tutorials/infrared-diy-tutorials/nikon-d70-d70s)

Basically, it involves cracking open your camera, removing the IR blocking filter from the sensor, and replacing it with one that blocks visible light instead. Now I can take IR shots at normal shutter speeds, rather than having to go down to multiple second long exposures every time. The only problem is that the camera can't take anything but IR pictures now, but since it's my old body anyways, that wasn't much of an issue.
 
Beautiful shots. The mod is definitely interesting. Is that commonly done? Is there a way you can get image results such as this from a PS software?
 
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Beautiful shots. The mod is definitely interesting. Is that commonly done? Is there a way you can get image results such as this from a PS software?

Thanks :)
Though infrared shots are relatively common, the mod is not. With a digital SLR, you can do IR in two ways: The first is to buy an infrared filter for your lens (I have the Hoya R72). You line up and focus the shot, then screw on the filter (it blocks all visible light, so it's imperative to set up the shot first). After that, use the camera's metering and shoot. The problem is that nearly all dSLRs have very effective IR blocking filters, so your exposure times may be as low as 1-2 seconds, but are likely much longer.

The second is the IR conversion. This, of course, ruins the camera for any other type pf shot, but allows hand-held IR photography at fast shutter speeds. In either process, at this point, you pull the RAW image (using RAW is essential) into your editor of choice (I use Lightroom here). Pick the white balance on grass, leaves, or a cloud. You should see something closer to these images at that point. Next, I go into split toning and set the highlights such that they show up as pure white, and the shadows so they show up as that reddish brown tobacco color. At that point, it goes into Photoshop for normal editing.

There are ways to approximate this effect in Photoshop, but none of them really look quite right. Capturing an IR image is really the only way to end up with this effect.
 
Thanks :)

edddial: I used the IR filter from Life Pixel (Life Pixel – Nikon D70 & D70s DIY Digital Infrared Conversion Tutorial | LifePixel Digital Infrared Photography IR Conversion, Modification & Scratched Sensor Repair)

Basically, it involves cracking open your camera, removing the IR blocking filter from the sensor, and replacing it with one that blocks visible light instead. Now I can take IR shots at normal shutter speeds, rather than having to go down to multiple second long exposures every time. The only problem is that the camera can't take anything but IR pictures now, but since it's my old body anyways, that wasn't much of an issue.

Thanks for sharing, appreciate it!
 
There are also two types of conversions.

One replaces the IR cut filter on the sensor with a IR pass filter. This is the most ideal conversion for IR shooters. It allows composition through the viewfinder with visible light AND hand holdable exposures in bright daylight. The disadvantage is that it renders the camera useless for any other type photography.


The other replaces the IR cut filter on sensor with clear optical glass. This is a compromise. You still have to flip the IR pass filter during composition but you can get hand holdable exposures in bright daylight. I've seen a few pics online of people using flip out filter holders and/or push on filter DIY rigs (modified bayonet hood perhaps?) to make this easier. I surmise you could also use a hotshoe viewfinder to make things easier. The advantage is that you can simply replace the filter with an IR cut filter and pretty much the camera as normally.


ClarinetJWD, nice shots. I posted some IR photos a while back and it didn't seem like there were many members here with interest in IR photography. Its a pleasant surprise to see this set. I've been playing around with different ways to process in PS. Its been loads of fun. IMO, The 4th "The Palm" photo would look great with a blue/indigo sky. Bring the highlights of the palm to near white and flip the blue and red channels in PS.

Cheers!
 
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usayit: Yes, I forgot about the clear filter mod, as it wasn't even a consideration for me back when I did the conversion, given that it was a spare body.

There used to be a lot more people doing IR here, but most have disappeared by now. I processed the palm for blue skies, but don't like the result as much. I always seem to prefer the red look on IR, but you can take a look:

$the_palm_blue.webp
 
clarinetJWD said:
Thanks :)
Though infrared shots are relatively common, the mod is not. With a digital SLR, you can do IR in two ways: The first is to buy an infrared filter for your lens (I have the Hoya R72). You line up and focus the shot, then screw on the filter (it blocks all visible light, so it's imperative to set up the shot first). After that, use the camera's metering and shoot. The problem is that nearly all dSLRs have very effective IR blocking filters, so your exposure times may be as low as 1-2 seconds, but are likely much longer.

The second is the IR conversion. This, of course, ruins the camera for any other type pf shot, but allows hand-held IR photography at fast shutter speeds. In either process, at this point, you pull the RAW image (using RAW is essential) into your editor of choice (I use Lightroom here). Pick the white balance on grass, leaves, or a cloud. You should see something closer to these images at that point. Next, I go into split toning and set the highlights such that they show up as pure white, and the shadows so they show up as that reddish brown tobacco color. At that point, it goes into Photoshop for normal editing.

There are ways to approximate this effect in Photoshop, but none of them really look quite right. Capturing an IR image is really the only way to end up with this effect.

Thanks! I'll surely look into getting an IR filter eventually. Seems like a good investment.
 

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