upgrading equipement!

[ferguson911]

Hey everyone, I currently have a Nikon d5000 and am starting to upgrade my equipement.

I decided to start off with the purchase of a new lens, i do alot of portrait and show photography.

Now my favorite lens is the 55-200 kit lens I own, so my first obvious choix is a brand new nikon 70-200 2.8 vr ii ( fits my budget!)

I know many will say to opt for fullframe body, and upgrade this first.... am I going the wrong route? or is it a good idea to get my top glass first then upgrade to a new body ( even though the d5000 fits my needs)

need your opinions!!!

 

[Alpha]

Glass first. Especially if you do portraiture.

 

[ferguson911]

is this a suitable portraiture lens?

 

[IgsEMT]

70-200 on a crop buddy is huge thing. You know it b/c you have your 55-200 to compare it to. Keep in mind the lens is heavy and might not be very practical.
I found that on the crop buddy it isn't a lens for me. For the same price, I think its about the same, you can get a 24-70 2.8.
For portraits although I'm amongst few of those who advises against primes, in-studio I use prime 50mm and it perfect.
Kind of give you an Idea what I used and when was shooting Bronica. Average distance b/n me and subject was b/n 10-15 feet
150mm - 1-3 ppl (3/4 to close ups)
100mm - 3-5ppl (full length on 1-2 ppl)
80mm - 6-9 ppl
65mm - over 11 ppl
50 and 40 fricken wides.

I don't sign on much so if you have any specific Qs/ comments, just send me a PM and I'll get the email in regards.
Good Luck

 

[ferguson911]

70-200 on a crop buddy is huge thing. You know it b/c you have your 55-200 to compare it to. Keep in mind the lens is heavy and might not be very practical.
I found that on the crop buddy it isn't a lens for me. For the same price, I think its about the same, you can get a 24-70 2.8.
For portraits although I'm amongst few of those who advises against primes, in-studio I use prime 50mm and it perfect.
Kind of give you an Idea what I used and when was shooting Bronica. Average distance b/n me and subject was b/n 10-15 feet
150mm - 1-3 ppl (3/4 to close ups)
100mm - 3-5ppl (full length on 1-2 ppl)
80mm - 6-9 ppl
65mm - over 11 ppl
50 and 40 fricken wides.

I don't sign on much so if you have any specific Qs/ comments, just send me a PM and I'll get the email in regards.
Good Luck

well in portraiture outdoors and studio i tend to use my 55-200 as i have space to work.

The weight should not be too much of a problem i guess, event though it is a very intimidating lens! The monopod helps with alot I imagine

Is bokeh top notch on this lens, I have never owned a f2.8, and I shoot LOTS of low light, so for me it is a clear choice to go 2.8 or lower. In venues I have little traveling space so a zooming lens is the ideal.

in regards to the 70-200 vr 2 2.8 will this content my desires? even though i have a crop body

 

[Derrel]

The Nikon 70-200/2.8 zooms have top-notch bokeh, on both the first and second generation models. You will not regret owning such a fine zoom!

 

[Fedaykin]

Glass before body. Always.

 

[Alpha]

A prime would definitely be my preference for portraiture.

 

[Derrel]

A prime would definitely be my preference for portraiture.

'Cept with the D5000, most of Nikon's best portraiture primes will be manual focus only...

 

[Alpha]

A prime would definitely be my preference for portraiture.

'Cept with the D5000, most of Nikon's best portraiture primes will be manual focus only...

And that's a problem because...

 

[KmH]

Because:

Entry-level digital cameras have small pentamirrors instead of full size pentaprisms, nor do they have focusing screens that can aid manual focusing.

Plus, today's lenses have very coarse manual focus rings, and lack focus distance indicators.

In short, manually focusing with todays digital cameras is much more difficult than it was when manual focusing was the only game in town.

 

[ferguson911]

Because:

Entry-level digital cameras have small pentamirrors instead of full size pentaprisms, nor do they have focusing screens that can aid manual focusing.

Plus, today's lenses have very coarse manual focus rings, and lack focus distance indicators.

In short, manually focusing with todays digital cameras is much more difficult than it was when manual focusing was the only game in town.

VERY true,

Top notch bokeh on a fine zoom, i guess it's a good choice.

will it live up to its name even on a non-full frame?