using flash in back lit images

[paigew]

I just got a speedlight a few days ago and have been practicing bouncing it indoors. I am 1/2 way through Nei Van Niekerk's (sp?) 2 hour on camera flash webinar. I am not sure if it will address this or not, but how do I use my flash in backlit images to get catch lights in the eyes? I can't bounce it when I'm outside; I always shoot (my kids) alone and I am not going to be carrying a reflector everywhere I go so I can bounce . What settings should my flash be at? Should I set my flash really low so it only shoots a tiny amount of light? And point it straight on them? Help!!

 

[paigew]

Also, in the web video he (neil) uses really slow shutter speeds with flash. Is this because he is just really good at holding the camera steady? Or does the flash 'freeze' movements so you don't get motion blur?

 

[ipschoser1]

Hi Paige,

Going on the assumption that you are shooting outdoors in backlit conditions, try using the Speedlite on the hotshoe for direct fill flash. Many photogs prefer to back the flash off a stop in these type situations, but experiment to find the look you want. The flash should also give some catchlights.

Indoors, you may get better results by bouncing the fill light. Every situation is different and every photog has preferences on how they like their images to look. Catchlights may be tough with bounced flash.

Another thing to consider is gelling the flash to get skin tones looking correct. You may want to get a 1/4, 1/2, and Full CTO (orange) gells for your new Speedlite. They can easily be held on with velcro. I use and recommend Honl gels. For the sake of this discussion, the gels would be used for direct fill light, not bounced.

 

[ipschoser1]

Paige, in response to your second post, be sure to set your flash for 2nd curtain sync. That way it will fire at the end of the exposure and help feeze action.

 

[DiskoJoe]

Sounds like you want to be fancy but keep it simple. Those two dont always work together. if your out and cant bounce flash then try to use the natural light to your advantage.

 

[Buckster]

Depending on which flash you have, it may have a reflector card built into the head that can be pulled out to get highlights in the eyes. You still will want to get it off the camera so they aren't dead center in the eyes. If no card is built in, it's very easy to make one from a bit of white paper, cardboard or plastic and some tape, velcro or rubber bands to hold it onto the flash.

The flash is fast enough to deal with a slow shutter, but the shutter speed is used to control the amount of ambient light in relation to the amount of flash, so keep that in mind.

 

[paigew]

Sounds like you want to be fancy but keep it simple. Those two dont always work together. if your out and cant bounce flash then try to use the natural light to your advantage.

yep pretty much. Since I shoot my (always on the move) 2 1/2 year old I pretty much take what I can get as far as positioning goes...can't really 'set' anything up.

 

[Big Mike]

If you are using your flash for fill light (your main light being natural light or whatever else), then it's perfectly fine to just shoot the flash directly at the subject. The idea of bouncing the flash, is to soften it (enlarge the source, relative to the subject) and to change the direction to help you create modeling on your subject (highlights & shadows). If the existing light already gives you some modeling, then you can use a little fit of flash, just to help fill the shadows and put catchlights in the eyes. But if you only other source of light is behind the subjects...then on-camera fill may look a bit flat.

Also, in the web video he (neil) uses really slow shutter speeds with flash. Is this because he is just really good at holding the camera steady? Or does the flash 'freeze' movements so you don't get motion blur?

Yes...and no.
Each photo you take with flash, is actually two different exposures in one. The first is the ambient exposure and the second is the flash exposure. Usually, they line up and/or one is much stronger, so it looks like a single exposure. So yes, you can use a slow shutter speed while having the flash freeze the subject...but realize that there will also be an ambient exposure of the subject in the image as well. How much of that ambient exposure shows up, will depend on a few factors....aperture, ISO, shutter speed and how much ambient light there is. If you have a lot of ambient exposure, then you will get a blurry subject with a slow shutter speed...but the flash can add a sharp exposure to the mix. The result would likely be what we call 'ghosting'. This is where the subject has a blurry version of themselves beside/around them in the photo. But if there is little or no ambient light (at night, for example) then you can have a rather long shutter speed and you still wouldn't have much or any blurry...but a flash would light up and freeze the subject easily.

This is one of those things where we can't tell you the settings...you just have to experiment with the conditions you have. After playing around with it, you should have a better idea of how it works. Then you can use it specifically to get the results that you want.

 

[paigew]

Thanks Ipschoser for your advice! And Buckster, I have the speedlight 430exii I'm not sure that it has reflector thing. I bought it (barely) used and the girl didn't have the manual so I will have to check into that. If not I will for sure make one as you suggested! So would you just hold the flash then? I'm not sure if mine can work off camera without buying the upgrade model can it?

 

[ipschoser1]

Thanks Ipschoser for your advice! And Buckster, I have the speedlight 430exii I'm not sure that it has reflector thing. I bought it (barely) used and the girl didn't have the manual so I will have to check into that. If not I will for sure make one as you suggested! So would you just hold the flash then? I'm not sure if mine can work off camera without buying the upgrade model can it?

The 430EXII has a plastic extension that was intended for wide angle coverage. If you pull it out but don't snap it over the flash head it will act as a reflector for catchlights. The 430 series is used on the hotshoe (or off camera cord from the hotshoe), or as a wireless slave flash off camera. Canon master flash units are the 500EX/580EX (II)/or the new 600 series. The ST-E2 can also be used to trigger wireless flash units. If you have a late model camera (7D/60D, etc) the pop up flash can be used as a wireless trigger for the 430EXII.

 

[paigew]

Thanks Ipschoser for your advice! And Buckster, I have the speedlight 430exii I'm not sure that it has reflector thing. I bought it (barely) used and the girl didn't have the manual so I will have to check into that. If not I will for sure make one as you suggested! So would you just hold the flash then? I'm not sure if mine can work off camera without buying the upgrade model can it?

The 430EXII has a plastic extension that was intended for wide angle coverage. If you pull it out but don't snap it over the flash head it will act as a reflector for catchlights. The 430 series is used on the hotshoe (or off camera cord from the hotshoe), or as a wireless slave flash off camera. Canon master flash units are the 500EX/580EX (II)/or the new 600 series. The ST-E2 can also be used to trigger wireless flash units. If you have a late model camera (7D/60D, etc) the pop up flash can be used as a wireless trigger for the 430EXII.

Awesome! I'll have to learn how to use that out today!

 

[ipschoser1]

Paige,

Here are a few of my portrait shots (don't do many). Most had flash used (some off camera, some for direct fill, some for backlight). Location Portraits - Eric McFerrin Photography | SmugMug

 

[paigew]

Thanks mike! yes, its the backlit images that I have a hard time getting 'right'. I really want them to come to life more kwim? What I usually do is find a spot and sit and wait for my her (my daughter) to look my way. I move around a TON when I shoot so I would really like to learn how to use the flash 'on the fly' haha. So, maybe what I need to look for is partially back lit places so I have a little light across the face? And then use my flash for the other (darker) side? Should I use a diffuser? Here is a photo I took this week (no flash) backlit only at around 5:00 (about 3 hrs before sundown). In this situation, how would you (or would you?) use flash?

 

[ipschoser1]

Here is a photo I took this week (no flash) backlit only at around 5:00 (about 3 hrs before sundown). In this situation, how would you (or would you?) use flash?

Not sure if this was intended only for Mike...but...

In that situation, I would properly expose the background (manual mode) and then let the ETTL 430EXII figure out how to light the subject. Very quick, an easy to do "on the fly".

 

[cgipson1]

Paige... I often use a Demb Flip-it when shooting outdoors, it it great for fill flash and gives beautiful catchlights. Demb Flash Products - Flip-it! - Which Model for Your Strobe?

I usually set the flash a stop or two under proper flash exposure, depending on what the ambient light is light.... more flash for harsh sunlight, less for diffused cloudy sunlight....