Using flash outdoors to remove shadows

[gossamer]

Or... just get back to basics. The key light (in this case) the sun, is causing harsh shadows. We know we have two choices with harsh light; move the light source closer to the model or diffuse it. Since the former isn't really possible, then we need to look at the latter which is very simple. This doesn't totally negate the need for fill flash ('though you could get away without it), but it does create a much reduced dynamic range making fill flash an easier proposition.

I see this as being too much of a distraction when involving toddlers.

I also see it as removing the shadow for the space under the subject, but creating a noticeable "gray" or shade area, while the rest of the scene is sunny...

 

[gossamer]

Maybe this is more for studio purposes where the light can be controlled, than out in a field?

Gold and Silver are speciality reflectors that I very rarely use. I generally use white to add light, black to subtract light, and either white or translucent to diffuse light. They work wonderfully outdoors if you understand how to use them.

Yes, that's the key - understanding how to use them effectively. Clearly I do not I will try with a white reflector to try and create a softer balance...

 

[gossamer]

So I got a chance to shoot under very similar circumstances again yesterday, set FP Sync on the flash, and was able to control the shutter a bit more easily. This is how I did.
f/2.8, ISO100, 1/3200th D500 24-70mm VRII highlight metering. Photoshop thought it was 1 stop under exposed, so adjusted it to +1 with "Auto". I brought it back a bit. I also adjusted the Hue according to the values described in the LR screenshot above.

Thanks everyone for your awesome feedback.

 

[photo1x1.com]

Muuuuuuch better! I like it - especially her expression. But the white balance seems a little off.

 

[greatchimney]

Based on some readings, in order to get rid of shadows especially on the face of the person, a "fill in flash", that involves the use of a low intensity light will be enough.

 

[photo1x1.com]

Based on some readings, in order to get rid of shadows especially on the face of the person, a "fill in flash", that involves the use of a low intensity light will be enough.

That depends on the lighting situation. Noon on a tropical beach will take full flash power of most speedlights, and even that might be hardly noticable, if the flash is not close enough to the subject.
If it is rather dark, a very low power settings is more than you need.

 

[TCampbell]

Setting the Flash Exposure Comp to -3 is quite a bit... I typically set mine to about -2/3 to maybe -1. But think about what these values mean.

If you set the flash exposure to zero... then it means you want the flash to fire at the power level to correctly light the shot. But since you've got sunlight (ambient light source) the camera will also meter so that the sunlight is the "correct" amount of sun. If both the flash and sun are going to provide the "correct" light, then what it really means is that an FEC of 0 means that the sun and flash will both contribute equally (50/50) to the shot.

If you set the FEC to -1 then it means you want the flash to fire at 1/2 power of whatever it would normally use. If that flash fires at half power you're now at roughly a 25/75 scenario. Is you set it to -2/3 then you're getting roughly a 33/66 split (meaning the sun is providing roughly double the light that the flash is providing.)

If you set it to -3... then that's going to cause the flash to fire at 1/8th the power level if would have used. But since the flash at an FEC of 0 would have gone in 50/50 with the Sun, it really means that the 12.5/87.5 split is probably more like a 6/94 split. In other words... the flash is contributing very very little to the shot (which would explain why it isn't doing much to help eliminate those shadows.)

If an outside exposure for full sun were to use a "sunny 16" rule (ISO 100, f/16 and 1/100th) but your camera can let you shoot with flash at 1/200th then you can drop the f-stop down to f/11... but hat's still not shallow DOF unless you have high-speed sync.

If you do NOT have high-speed sync... another option is to thread on a neutral density filter. For example a 3 stop filter would bring that f/11 down to f/4 (and that's not bad) without even requiring HSS feature on the flash.

 

[fmw]

So I got a chance to shoot under very similar circumstances again yesterday, set FP Sync on the flash, and was able to control the shutter a bit more easily. This is how I did.
f/2.8, ISO100, 1/3200th D500 24-70mm VRII highlight metering. Photoshop thought it was 1 stop under exposed, so adjusted it to +1 with "Auto". I brought it back a bit. I also adjusted the Hue according to the values described in the LR screenshot above.

View attachment 138203

Thanks everyone for your awesome feedback.

You have conquered fill flash. Congratulations.

 

[greybeard]

You have to setup your camera for high speed flash, called (AUTO FP*) meaning setting the flash to sync with the shutter at a speed faster than 1/200-1/250th. This is what I have to do with my D750 and D7000, hopefully it is similar with your d500. 1st go to custom settings menu and Bracketing/flash. Set FLASH SYNC SPEED to 1/250s* (Auto FP). Now when you use your flash outside and you have to use a faster shutter speed, your SB700 will flash several times extremely fast to sync with the faster shutter speed. It works very well and I use it all the time.

 

[Peeb]

Muuuuuuch better! I like it - especially her expression. But the white balance seems a little off.

Maybe more like this?

 

[photo1x1.com]

Muuuuuuch better! I like it - especially her expression. But the white balance seems a little off.

Maybe more like this?
View attachment 138370

Nice try
I stil think it has too much magenta. Gossamer would have an easier chance to get white balance correct because he has the RAW file .
Also it seems you have given the file a little more contrast. usually that works well, but with an on camera flash, you sometimes darken the tiny shadow areas that the flash creates.

 

[dnlphoto]

Do you have as shot with just the ambiance light for us to compare?

 

[Peeb]

Muuuuuuch better! I like it - especially her expression. But the white balance seems a little off.

Maybe more like this?
View attachment 138370

Nice try
I stil think it has too much magenta. Gossamer would have an easier chance to get white balance correct because he has the RAW file .
Also it seems you have given the file a little more contrast. usually that works well, but with an on camera flash, you sometimes darken the tiny shadow areas that the flash creates.

Yeah, I dropped the reds a bit, but wondered about maybe dialing back the magentas as well... I think you're rigt.

 

[beagle100]

Muuuuuuch better! I like it - especially her expression. But the white balance seems a little off.

Maybe more like this?
View attachment 138370

Nice try
I stil think it has too much magenta. Gossamer would have an easier chance to get white balance correct because he has the RAW file .
Also it seems you have given the file a little more contrast. usually that works well, but with an on camera flash, you sometimes darken the tiny shadow areas that the flash creates.

Yeah, I dropped the reds a bit, but wondered about maybe dialing back the magentas as well... I think you're rigt.

yes, definitely dial back the reds, magenta, white balance, exposure compensation, etc.