View attachment 77877
SS-1/250, F11, ISO200
SB-800 off camera
full power approx. 30degrees left 15 ft from subject, in remote.
On camera flash set to Commander. Obviously flash needed to be closer to subject. But what needs to happen to freeze motion?
You need a much, much slower-wing-flappin' birdie....something like a robin or black capped chicadee's wings wouldda' been frozen--but thoe birds cannot hover like bees!!!!.The problem is that
full-power flash is as flash goes, slooooooooooooow. It might be 1/800. Or 1/1000. But a hummingbird's wings move very,very very fast. The little bastids have wingbeats that are insect-like in terms of rate of speed. Big slow birds have like two-, to say four-beats per second, maybe even six beats per second wing speed.
If the flash were set to an AUTO-mode, and placed much closer, you could get a faster flash pop...say one of 1/5000 to 1/20,000 second duration. The so-called fractional-power speeds of flash are VERY short....but a full-power, full capacitor dump flash is usually only around 1/1100 second with an SB 800 class flash.
And also, I think you are VERY CLOSE to a 50/50 ambient + flash ratio here:
At ISO 200, Sunny 16 Guideline says f/16 at 1/200 second is the right daylight exposure. Wellllllll.... f/11 at 1/250 is pretty close to that in this kind of late-afternoon, slanting sunlight, or early AM low sun...which is what makes that freaking AWESOME! shadow of the feeder. SO, I think part of the blur on the wings is the AMBIENT portion of the exposure.
Artistically, I LIKE a little bit of blur or ambient on hummingbird wings...this shot has a lot going for it. LOVE the shadow!!!
But if you want true STOP-MOTION wings, you need to get the flash 3,4,5 feet away at 1/4 to 1/8 power and keep the ISO level LOW, so as to avoid getting any "ghosting". I personally think the wings here show a teeny bit of ghosting from the ambient, and the flash stops "most" of the gross movement. I kind of like it, but I know what you are thinking.