Using Flash to FREEZE the Subject.. what it means ?

[enzodm]

and you cannot use flash AND have very high shutter speeds together .

what are the typical results ? underexposed and totally blackout shots?

No: simply the camera does not allow you to go over sync speed (1/250s or so) with flashes that do not have the high speed sync option (like the builtin flash, many third party flashes, cheap flashes, off camera flash with many wireless controllers, etc). Just try it with the builtin flash. I do not have mine at hand, but most likely you cannot choose more than sync speed, or if you can, you will see a partially blacked out image (a black strip).

 

[Stradawhovious]

and you cannot use flash AND have very high shutter speeds together .

what are the typical results ? underexposed and totally blackout shots?

Underexposed? Not necessarily. Totally blacked out? Kind of. If your shutter speed is over your camera's "sync speed", portions of the frame will be black due to being completely unexposed. The flash will fire before the shutter is competely open, or while the shutter is only partially open, and the shutter itself will sheild the sensor... thus leaving a black strip on the image. Photo examples in the link below.

Understand Flash Sync Speed so You Don’t Sink Your Photo Shoot

 

[jake337]

so looking at Stradawhovious shot..
can i say that in low ambient light, moving objects can be freezed to still with using flash and no need to go for very high SHUTTER SPEEDS ?

Yes.

What you need to think about is when using flash you now have two separate exposures. One for ambient(shutterspeed) and one for flash(aperture). This works great for outdoor photography as you can expose your subject with your flash and control the bright sunlight with a fast shutterspeed.


D90/85mm f1.4/sb600x2
1/2000
f1.4
iso200

Or use very long shutter speeds in low light and freeze your subject.(not the best example but..)

d90/tokina 100mm/ sb600x2
1 second
f32
is0200

From there the uses of flash keep going and going and going. Flash is awesome and gives you complete control over your photographic lighting.

 

[jake337]

and you cannot use flash AND have very high shutter speeds together .

what are the typical results ? underexposed and totally blackout shots?

Underexposed? Not necessarily. Totally blacked out? Kind of. If your shutter speed is over your camera's "sync speed", portions of the frame will be black due to being completely unexposed. The flash will fire before the shutter is competely open, or while the shutter is only partially open, and the shutter itself will sheild the sensor... thus leaving a black strip on the image. Photo examples in the link below.

Understand Flash Sync Speed so You Don’t Sink Your Photo Shoot

And this is where high flash sync comes into play!

 

[enzodm]

And this is where high flash sync comes into play!

... when available in the flash

 

[Rosy]

so looking at Stradawhovious shot..
can i say that in low ambient light, moving objects can be freezed to still with using flash and no need to go for very high SHUTTER SPEEDS ?

Exposure time for this one was 6.1 seconds. I'll let you see if you can guess how I did it.

SUSPENSE is killing me - PLEASE SHARE

 

[Stradawhovious]

SUSPENSE is killing me - PLEASE SHARE

Here's a hint....... Traditionally you need light to record an image on film or a digital sensor.

If the only source of light is a 1/10,000 the of a second burst of light, it doesn't matter how long the shutter is open, the sensor will only record that 1/10,000th of a second moment in time.

I recorded this in a dark room. I set up the shot, got my exposure, focusing, etc. Then the following.

Turned off the light.....
opened the shutter on the "Bulb" setting.....
simultaneouslike shot the egg with a pellet gun and fired off the off camera flash.
closed the shutter
turned off the lights.

The shutter was open for over 6 seconds, but only that tiny slice of time that the flash fired was recorded on the sensor since it was the only source of light.

 

[Josh66]

SUSPENSE is killing me - PLEASE SHARE

Here's a hint....... Traditionally you need light to record an image on film or a digital sensor.

If the only source of light is a 1/10,000 the of a second burst of light, it doesn't matter how long the shutter is open, the sensor will only record that 1/10,000th of a second moment in time.

I recorded this in a dark room. I set up the shot, got my exposure, focusing, etc. Then the following.

Turned off the light.....
opened the shutter on the "Bulb" setting.....
simultaneouslike shot the egg with a pellet gun and fired off the off camera flash.
closed the shutter
turned off the lights.

The shutter was open for over 6 seconds, but only that tiny slice of time that the flash fired was recorded on the sensor since it was the only source of light.

Did you use an audio trigger for that? Or just really good timing...?

 

[Stradawhovious]

Did you use an audio trigger for that? Or just really good timing...?

Really good timing. Haven't been able to justify the purchase of an audio trigger yet, and don't have the technical knowitallitude to make my own.

On the short list though, for sure. Even have a "studio" space in the basement for all kinds of high speed shenanigans.