Want to know a secret (NSFW)?

[rickwesh]

Made in DAZ Studio 4.21
Post work in Paintshop Pro Ultimate 2022 & Luminar NEO

 

[Jeff15]

Nice shot....

 

[rickwesh]

Nice shot....

Thank you. I try to make them as photographically realistic as possible.

 

[AlanKlein]

Reminds me of the artist who painted for Playboy Magazine. Sorry can't remember his name.
Nice shot.

 

[rickwesh]

Reminds me of the artist who painted for Playboy Magazine. Sorry can't remember his name.
Nice shot.

Thank you

 

[smoke665]

Some really nice work here. Only niggles I see are, there's an odd triangular shaped place on her foot (left side of frame), the highlights on the arm and knee (left side of frame) are a little hot and could use some work, and a streak/highlight on the left breast.

 

[rickwesh]

Some really nice work here. Only niggles I see are, there's an odd triangular shaped place on her foot (left side of frame), the highlights on the arm and knee (left side of frame) are a little hot and could use some work, and a streak/highlight on the left breast.

Thank you.
That is an extremely helpful comment.
So light position. There is a gobo light back behind and above here with a real colored gobo.
Love the comment!

 

[smoke665]

light position

Position, and ratio. Placing your key to high will cause a loss of light in the eyes create overly bright highlights under the eyes, and put the eyes in shadow. Typically I want my key off the centerline just under 45 degrees. Same on my fill. Unless I'm doing clamshell lighting with a beauty dish high on center with a large reflector low angled up.

You mentioned gobos on your lights. A gobo is a modifier that shapes a light, typically creating a pattern did you mean a Modifier?

My standard 3 light setup on portraits is a 6' brolly with diffusion set to f/8 as the key, a 2x4 softbox with diffusion opposite set to f/5.6, and a kicker 7" reflector with 10 degree grid (hair) on the same side as the key, set to the same as my key. I want the key center slightly above and angled down so the center is aimed just below the hairline. This gives me a 2:1 ratio I find more pleasing than a higher ratio.

 

[rickwesh]

Position, and ratio. Placing your key to high will cause a loss of light in the eyes create overly bright highlights under the eyes, and put the eyes in shadow. Typically I want my key off the centerline just under 45 degrees. Same on my fill. Unless I'm doing clamshell lighting with a beauty dish high on center with a large reflector low angled up.

You mentioned gobos on your lights. A gobo is a modifier that shapes a light, typically creating a pattern did you mean a Modifier?

My standard 3 light setup on portraits is a 6' brolly with diffusion set to f/8 as the key, a 2x4 softbox with diffusion opposite set to f/5.6, and a kicker 7" reflector with 10 degree grid (hair) on the same side as the key, set to the same as my key. I want the key center slightly above and angled down so the center is aimed just below the hairline. This gives me a 2:1 ratio I find more pleasing than a higher ratio.

Wow so much information. Excellent.
Yes hobo. I just changed to pattern for a flat color.
I have some others I wish I could show you from my galleries out there.
I haven't had much hands on experience with lights. Just bought a Godox 860iii for the camera with a Xpro trigger and a small soft box for the flash. Maybe that'll help me understand positions and light strength better.
I find the 3D programs mirror real world photography pretty well.
Thank you so much for your input.

 

[smoke665]

haven't had much hands on experience with lights. Just bought a Godox 860iii for the camera with a Xpro trigger and a small soft box for the flash. Ma

Looks like you have a good start.

Supplemental lighting without an incident meter makes it way harder than it needs to be, and is just about impossible to set ratios. A good used meter that measures reflective and incidents can be found for around a $100.

While speedlights can be used for portraits, they are typically underpowered. I'm guessing the 860 is around 25ws vs most studio mono lights start at 300 ws and go up. The other thing is the quality of the light (hard vs soft) is determined by the size of the modifier in relation to the subject. With a small modifier the transitions in the shadow will have a hard edge (like in your models elbow). With a large modifier youll get smoother transitions, and also minimize specularity like the highlight on her lip.

 

[rickwesh]

Looks like you have a good start.

Supplemental lighting without an incident meter makes it way harder than it needs to be, and is just about impossible to set ratios. A good used meter that measures reflective and incidents can be found for around a $100.

Unless its 3D work lol. Boy that would be handy though!
Only have about 3 years real world camera experience.
Thank you again.

 

[AlanKlein]

Reminds me of the artist who painted for Playboy Magazine. Sorry can't remember his name.
Nice shot.

Just remembered his name Alberto Vargas

Alberto Vargas - Bing

Intelligent search from Bing makes it easier to quickly find what you’re looking for and rewards you.

www.bing.com

 

[rickwesh]

Just remembered his name Alberto Vargas

Alberto Vargas - Bing

Intelligent search from Bing makes it easier to quickly find what you’re looking for and rewards you.

www.bing.com

Ah yes the Vargas girls.
Here you go.
An attempt to do more like his.

 

[AlanKlein]

Ah yes the Vargas girls.
Here you go.
An attempt to do more like his.View attachment 269565

"I hope you don't mind but my pants are in the drier."

(You forgot the caption)

 

[rickwesh]

"I hope you don't mind but my pants are in the drier."

(You forgot the caption)

Pinup no. 4
No. 5 was better lol