water, why is it so hard!!

[patacao]

You can also buy a polarizer (no specific for this effect), but it will give you a 2 stop increase to the shutter speed. If you shot this at f22 1/5 with a polarizer you would get a 2 seconds exposure. Plus the polarizer would cut those reflexes you have on the middle/left area of the photo.

 

[cwcaesar]

Just so you'll know, "Neutral Density" filters come in 3, well, 4, varieties. They all act to decrease the amount of light coming through the lens in a given time frame, thus allowing either a LONGER shutter speed, to obtain the classic silky water effect, or to balance a scene with a wide variation in brightness. Graduated ND filters have one half that starts out darkest at the edge, and gradually lightens towards the middle, where it turns clear. There are two types - soft and hard. A hard grad has a very clear and sharp delineation between the dark and light. A soft grad has a gradual change. Most situations call for a soft grad, so that's what most people use.

A soft grad is often used when shooting a sunset, where the dark area is used against the sun/sky/clouds top part of the image. This allows your camera to get a proper, or at least, better exposure of the foreground area, which is usually darker relative to the bright(er) sun/sky/clouds top half. Use of a grad will very often slow the shutter speed as well, so a sturdy base or tripod is often called for. You adjust the camera angle until the gradation on the filter is appropriate for your scene.

I am sort of confused by this. I thought that you would want the Hard Grad for sunrise, sunset, etc., something involving a horizon. And the Soft Grad was only used for a gradual change across the whole image.

If I am mistaken, in what situation should you use a Hard Grad?

 

[clarie]

ok, so very confused, if my lens is 55/200mm will i need the filter that say 55mm? or why don't we make it simple and just someone post what I need lol... in the 50 dollar range give or take lol.
And what else do you use filters for?
I think its the 52mm? and if so is this what I need, http://www.amazon.com/Vivitar-Varia...r_1_42?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1358990694&sr=1-42

 

[oldhippy]

ok, so very confused, if my lens is 55/200mm will i need the filter that say 55mm? or why don't we make it simple and just someone post what I need lol... in the 50 dollar range give or take lol.
And what else do you use filters for?
I think its the 52mm? and if so is this what I need, Amazon.com: Vivitar Series 1 Variable Range Neutral Density Filter 52mm: Camera & Photo

you will get a lot of suggestions.this is the type filter I choose. Amazon.com: Hoya 52mm Circular Polarizing Glass Filter - B52CRPLGB: Electronics

something to consider..if you buy the 67mm filter and a step down ring for a few bucks, that filter will fit both the 52mm and a 67mm which is a common lens.ie 70/300mm. just a thought.maybe somone could elaborate on this idea better. Ed

p.s. I should add that way the filter will service more than 1 lens..

 

[clarie]

the lenses i have is the kit lens 18-55mm and the 55-200mm.

 

[oldhippy]

O.K. I will try not to confuae..if you buy a 52mm filter it will fit both lenses..it will cost about 30.00. if you but a 67mm filter, and a step down lens adaptor. it will cost a few extra dollars. but it will cover the next lens you will probably purchase. a lot of people buy up. and use down. just a thought..filters are expensive..try to get the most use out of it..so think of your next lens, and buy accordingly, or not..later Ed

 

[JTPhotography]

Try a circular polarizer to cut the glare off the water.

 

[CanonJim]

ok, so very confused, if my lens is 55/200mm will i need the filter that say 55mm? or why don't we make it simple and just someone post what I need lol... in the 50 dollar range give or take lol.
And what else do you use filters for?
I think its the 52mm? and if so is this what I need, Amazon.com: Vivitar Series 1 Variable Range Neutral Density Filter 52mm: Camera & Photo

I apologize, didn't mean to confuse you. The 55-200 on your lens is the zoom range. It is NOT the front element diameter, which is the number you need for filters. If you look at the 'Tech Specs' page on the Nikon site for your lens, you'll see the front element is 52mm in diameter. This is the filter size you need for this particular lens. Other lenses will vary, as noted above.

 

[CanonJim]

Just so you'll know, "Neutral Density" filters come in 3, well, 4, varieties. They all act to decrease the amount of light coming through the lens in a given time frame, thus allowing either a LONGER shutter speed, to obtain the classic silky water effect, or to balance a scene with a wide variation in brightness. Graduated ND filters have one half that starts out darkest at the edge, and gradually lightens towards the middle, where it turns clear. There are two types - soft and hard. A hard grad has a very clear and sharp delineation between the dark and light. A soft grad has a gradual change. Most situations call for a soft grad, so that's what most people use.

A soft grad is often used when shooting a sunset, where the dark area is used against the sun/sky/clouds top part of the image. This allows your camera to get a proper, or at least, better exposure of the foreground area, which is usually darker relative to the bright(er) sun/sky/clouds top half. Use of a grad will very often slow the shutter speed as well, so a sturdy base or tripod is often called for. You adjust the camera angle until the gradation on the filter is appropriate for your scene.

I am sort of confused by this. I thought that you would want the Hard Grad for sunrise, sunset, etc., something involving a horizon. And the Soft Grad was only used for a gradual change across the whole image.

If I am mistaken, in what situation should you use a Hard Grad?

I suppose a hard grad would be useful when shooting a sunset/sunrise with the ocean at the horizon, where you have a very sharp demarcation between light and dark. I use only soft grads, so can't really speak for where else it might be used. I've just always thought a softie gave you more flexibility with an uneven horizon.

 

[patacao]

clarie, you have several options as stated, i`ll try to simplify:

1. FULL ND filters - their objective is what you want, to reduce the amout of light entering the sensor and to decrease the shutter speed (obtain the sense of movement, silky water, etc)
2. GRAD ND Filters - they come in 2 versions, hard and soft, for this effect i wouldn`t use them.
3. Circular Polarizer - Primary objective, to add contrast and to remove reflexes. As a benefit is decreases the shutter speed in 2 stops, allowing you to obtain a silky water.

Hope this helps.

 

[dmunsie]

I've been researching this as well, I haven't been able to test it yet, but I've read where a low iso of 50 and a shutter speed of 5-15 seconds will do the job without using a filter. Thoughts? Thanks.

 

[clarie]

ok, thats a little better, I think I have it now lol... and I bet your saying finally!! it was confusing me on the sizes... lens/diameter. Thanks all

 

[patacao]

I've been researching this as well, I haven't been able to test it yet, but I've read where a low iso of 50 and a shutter speed of 5-15 seconds will do the job without using a filter. Thoughts? Thanks.

dmusie the problem you have here is whats bring us to these questions, on a normal situation (during day) you can`t obtain that shutter speed because of the light available. Thus it`s necessary to aplly one the options stated.

 

[480sparky44 43]

I've been researching this as well, I haven't been able to test it yet, but I've read where a low iso of 50 and a shutter speed of 5-15 seconds will do the job without using a filter. Thoughts? Thanks.

Yes, you can lower your ISO. But most DSLRs have 100 or 200 as their lowest ISO available. My D600 can go to 50, but that's only one stop less than the sensors' lowest native ISO of 100. This means there might be an IQ penalty for going lower than 100.

In addition, you might be tempted to stop your lens all the way down, but this is a double-edged sword as well. You might obtain the shutter speed you want, but most lenses don't perform at their optimum sharpness at f/22 or f/32.... diffraction starts to degrade the image.

 

[clarie]

is this one good?
Amazon.com: Hoya 52mm Neutral Density ND-400 X, 9 Stop Multi-Coated Glass Filter: Camera & Photo