I should caution you on the whole "manual" thing. I would not spend money on an old manual focus lens when what you need is an auto-focus lens ... hoping to get by until you can afford the right lens. That just means you're going to buy two lenses... the lens you really don't want, eventually followed by the lens you really wanted to buy in the first place.
It isn't necessarily that you wont have time to focus manually (it's not like wedding photography is a sport), it's more that the you find it surprisingly difficult to do so accurately.
A modern DSLR commonly has an APS-C size sensor. That means the viewfinder is also sized proportionately. If you could compare the viewfinder on a modern DSLR to an older 35mm film camera you'd find the modern camera's viewfinder is noticeably smaller and dimmer (unless the DSLR is a "full frame" camera.)
When I did weddings, we used a medium format film camera and of course there's no automatic anything on those cameras -- including focus. So we did manually focus every shot, but it's a lot easier to manually focus when you've got a giant focusing screen on a medium format camera.
Also... to say we "focused" is a bit mis-leading. What we _really_ did was set up for the shot.
Since _everything_ is manual, that means the flashes are also manual. There were two of them... when you use a manual flash, the light output is consistent. Since light naturally spreads out as distance from the flash increases, that means more distant subjects don't get as much light as nearby subjects. You compensate by using the camera's f-stop. That means that for any given distance, there's a specific f-stop we always use. This is SO consistent, btw, that we put small stickers around the focus ring showing the f-stop that corresponds to that shooting distance.
Now suppose I'm going to shoot each member of the wedding party dancing. Here's how that works: I'm going to stand about 6' away and take "half-shots" of each couple (waist-up) dancing together. So I set up the shot by turning the focus ring to 6', where my sticker shows that I need to use f/16. I turn the aperture ring to f/16. I walk out and tap the couple, ask them to turn, face the camera, and PAUSE (I don't want them swaying in and out while I'm trying to shoot a manually focused shot.) I don't touch the focusing ring. Instead I'll move forward or backward by perhaps a few inches to frame in and focus. At f/16 I've got a lot of depth of field to work with and on a medium format camera there wont be any hint of the image being diffraction limited. It will be nicely focused.
Assuming an indoor reception, there will be dinner, they'll dim the lights, and then the dancing begins. When the lights are dim it will be PARTICULARLY difficult to focus -- especially with an APS-C camera. We had modeling lights built into the flashes (Norman makes a manual flash which is portable (the giant battery is about the size of a lunch-box and you wear it on a shoulder-strap) and it has a modeling light. But it's a fairly expensive flash.)
Today I shoot with a Canon DSLR and I have a dedicated external flash. The FLASH (not the camera) has a "focus assist beam" built-in. That means when I can't see to focus and the camera can't see to focus, the flash will emit it's red focus-assist beam and the camera will be able to lock focus. That minor (but _extremely_ useful feature for a wedding photographer) is one of the many reasons why the brand-name flash costs a little more than the 3rd party flash.
Don't forget... you can rent gear.
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