what kind of camera?

[Dao]

Ouch!!

 

[Derrel]

If you want a good camera for daylight flash-as-main light, or daylight fill flash, one of the lowest cost, best alternatives might be the Nikon D70 or D70s...those two cameras can shoot flash exposures at ridiculously fast shutter speeds, like 1/1000 second, which will allow you to set up a single flash later in the afternoon, and shoot a flash exposure of a skateboarder, while keeping the background (the natural light) very DARK, due to using an exposure such as f/11 at 1/1000 second. This particular "look" is used by quite a few top skateboarding photographers, many of whom use older Nikon CCD s-slr bodies simply because they allow the use of full-power flash, not FP or High Speed Synch reduced power flash, at ultra-short exposure times.

To get these ultra-high shutter speeds, the flash should be triggered with an AS-15 hotshoe to PC outlet accessory and the flash on a bracket, or using a Wein Safe Synch, or a remote trigger. The hybrid mechanical CDD shutter the D70 and D70s uses can synch flash shot at up to 1/4000 second with even exposure of the whole frame, which allows overpowering daylight to get rid of distracting backgrounds, even if you are using an ultra-wide angle lens mounted low, by making the daylight look "dark", while the closer areas are lighted up by electronic flash. This allows some very cool-looking beautiful "sunburst" shots,where the sun is rendered with beautiful star-filter like rays coming off of it. I'm sure you've seen this in the skate magazines, or the snowboarding articles, or in photos shot by board-sports pros covering the X-Games or other top events.

The look is called "overpowering daylight" with flash. Search around for it,and you will see how unique it looks.

The plus is that D70 and D70s cameras are very low-cost, around $225-$265 used, and will autofocus with AF, AF-D, and also the newer AF-i and AF-s lenses, as well as all autofocus lenses made by Tamron,Sigma,and Tokina.

 

[DennyCrane]

Before dropping half a G on a camera, I'd suggest borrowing someone's point and shoot digital camera and spending about a week taking pictures of EVERYTHING. Download it to your computer and see if you're getting the results you wanted. Frankly, for a complete beginner, learning the basics might be easier in a $150 point and shoot where the camera does all the settings and you can concentrate on composition, backgrounds, etc. My niece has taken some pretty damned amazing pictures with a nice, but basic camera, and she has no desire to move to an DSLR.

 

[Plato]

If you want a good camera for daylight flash-as-main light, or daylight fill flash, one of the lowest cost, best alternatives might be the Nikon D70 or D70s...those two cameras can shoot flash exposures at ridiculously fast shutter speeds, like 1/1000 second, which will allow you to set up a single flash later in the afternoon, and shoot a flash exposure of a skateboarder, while keeping the background (the natural light) very DARK, due to using an exposure such as f/11 at 1/1000 second. This particular "look" is used by quite a few top skateboarding photographers, many of whom use older Nikon CCD s-slr bodies simply because they allow the use of full-power flash, not FP or High Speed Synch reduced power flash, at ultra-short exposure times.

To get these ultra-high shutter speeds, the flash should be triggered with an AS-15 hotshoe to PC outlet accessory and the flash on a bracket, or using a Wein Safe Synch, or a remote trigger. The hybrid mechanical CDD shutter the D70 and D70s uses can synch flash shot at up to 1/4000 second with even exposure of the whole frame, which allows overpowering daylight to get rid of distracting backgrounds, even if you are using an ultra-wide angle lens mounted low, by making the daylight look "dark", while the closer areas are lighted up by electronic flash. This allows some very cool-looking beautiful "sunburst" shots,where the sun is rendered with beautiful star-filter like rays coming off of it. I'm sure you've seen this in the skate magazines, or the snowboarding articles, or in photos shot by board-sports pros covering the X-Games or other top events.

The look is called "overpowering daylight" with flash. Search around for it,and you will see how unique it looks.

The plus is that D70 and D70s cameras are very low-cost, around $225-$265 used, and will autofocus with AF, AF-D, and also the newer AF-i and AF-s lenses, as well as all autofocus lenses made by Tamron,Sigma,and Tokina.

You are incorrect.

The hybrid to which you referred is limited to 1/500 second. It can not operate at the 1/1000 and 1/4000 that you mentioned. The first mechanical (slow) curtain opens the shutter while the sensor electronics is off. Then in sequence, the sensor turns on, the flash fires and the sensor turns off. Finally the second mechanical curtain closes the shutter. I understand that Nikon dropped this technique because of blooming at large apertures.

Shutter speeds faster than 1/500 require FP flash, which I've been using for fifty years. Technically, FP is not a synchronization. In fact, it's quite the contrary. The flash begins firing with a flat output response before the shutter curtains move. Then, the first curtain opens the shutter and the second curtain closes the shutter. Finally, the flash stops firing. The flash functions with an electronic simulation of the old long burning FP bulb.

The downside of FP flash is a SIGNIFICANTLY reduced flash intensity. Actually, "intensity" isn't really the correct term but it's the easiest way to get the point across.

 

[Plato]

Before dropping half a G on a camera, I'd suggest borrowing someone's point and shoot digital camera and spending about a week taking pictures of EVERYTHING. Download it to your computer and see if you're getting the results you wanted. Frankly, for a complete beginner, learning the basics might be easier in a $150 point and shoot where the camera does all the settings and you can concentrate on composition, backgrounds, etc. My niece has taken some pretty damned amazing pictures with a nice, but basic camera, and she has no desire to move to an DSLR.

I have seen far too many SLRs gathering dust in the closet because they were purchased by someone that really should be using a P&S.

 

[shed301]

I actually hate these sorts of questions mainly because we are not you. your the one who decides on what to get and if we *the forum users* get it wrong, then who are you going to blame?. no other but us with some crazy excuse like "well you guys told me to get one of these", So my advice would be to go to a local camera shop, get a lot of different varieties/brands and try them out for feel. the one you like that sits nice in your hands should be the one to buy

hope this helps

 

[thenikonguy]

This guy has a rig he'll sell you cheap:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ht8JBte2xZs

LOL @

Biker: "it's not scratched"
Camera guy: "no, its broken"
Biker: "this is broken?"

this has yet to happen to me with my camera.. happened a few years ago to my video camera though...

 

[HelenOster]

If you find a reputable online dealer (Adorama or B&H, etc.) you can get a refurbished unit for a little cheaper.

Most on here will tell you the factory refurbs are great, most are like new.

They are indeed; all refurbished units sold by Adorama Camera - and most other reputable retailers - are factory refurbished by the manufacturer. A refurbished unit from Adorama may be an ex-store demo, possibly used in field tests or sales displays, or it may have been ordered in error and returned to the retailer (who can't then sell it as 'new' so it has to be sent back to the manufacturer for refurbishment).

A refurb can also have simply been pulled from the production line if something appears faulty, or if it hasn't passed the final inspection. Most of the time it is a very minor issue that needs correcting, nevertheless, once it is pulled from the normal flow of production, it gets flagged as a refurbished model, so you may get a unit straight from the factory that has never been used.

A refurbished item will have been checked over by the manufacturer by hand, inspected very thoroughly, diagnosed, and calibrated by experienced technicians, and could therefore turn out to be more dependable than a new item - which will only have been checked by a process of systematic quality control protocol (ie by random sampling as it comes off the conveyor belt).

Helen Oster
Adorama Camera Customer Service Ambassador

[email protected]
www.adorama.com