Which (non-key) light modifier is more versatile for small studio?

[afifi]

I'm setting up a small home studio (portrait, still life!). I'll begin with 2 small strobes (60 GN, 300 W) and already have 2 speed lights (with snoot and grids). For key light/outdoor I'm getting an Apollo orb 43'' octabox and a beauty dish with diffuser.

Which secondary (non-key) light modifiers to get. I could use an umbrellas for fill, but I don't like it so far, for lack of efficiency and spills. Also, I'll need more than fill: left-right lighting, perhaps!

I understand I'll be needing specific modifiers as I specialize, but for now:

- Between octabox and softbox, which is more versatile? Given it's non-key and indoor, and I don't worry about catch light shape or being tedious to assemble (I got an octa/beauty dish for both reasons) . So specifically, which is more generic, that'd give decent results for various setups (within reason of course).

- Which is more of a space saver (when open) given same effective size/surface area, and which dimensions to choose that're are more versatile? Should I opt for largest size (the room could fit) as well?

- I thought of a strip softbox but worry if it only applies to full portraits or wouldn't wrap around as an octabox would, is that correct?

Thank you.

 

[Designer]

Hey, welcome!

I see 38 views and yet no responses.

Your question is difficult for me to answer. As I think about studio lighting, it seems nearly every situation is different. Meaning; why would I consider the exact same lighting setup for each subject?

You have laid out a starting point that is apparently pre-determined. You have indicated you already have some knowledge concerning light and modifiers. You have also asked a question that is so narrowly defined that I wonder what is it precisely that you don't know.

Maybe you could re-phrase your question.

Thanks.

 

[Rosy]

I use speedlights in my home studio - i have an umbreall and a softbox

 

[tirediron]

Rather than buying modifiers just yet, buy this! Your main issue IMO, is that you're not yet experienced enough to know what you don't know. Every modifier has an application, but it's different for every situation. For large, subtle fill, I use a large (50" - 60") softbox or brolly-box in conjunction with a 22" beauty dish as the key. I often shoot bare-tube fill, or with just a reflector and sock... it really just depends on what I want to acheive. If I could only have ONE modifier in addition to my beauty dish, it would probably be a large brolly-box/octa-box.

 

[KmH]

Something doesn't compute.

W (watts) is a power designation for a constant light. Strobes are rated in watt seconds - 300 Ws - a very different power rating than W.
Also 300 Ws should be a lot more than a GN of 60, even though there is no direct conversion for Ws to GN.

 

[afifi]

Something doesn't compute.

W (watts) is a power designation for a constant light. Strobes are rated in watt seconds - 300 Ws - a very different power rating than W.
Also 300 Ws should be a lot more than a GN of 60, even though there is no direct conversion for Ws to GN.

You're absolutely correct, but I don't see how this is related to the original question? Surely it's a typo, but Ws isn't a power rating! The reason why it's inefficient in terms of illumination is because I'm on a limited budget and a cheap chinese strobe is all I could afford! In fact, the motivation for this question is because I don't want to spend on different modifiers, so I could get one versatile enough for learning!

 

[afifi]

Rather than buying modifiers just yet, buy this! Your main issue IMO, is that you're not yet experienced enough to know what you don't know. Every modifier has an application, but it's different for every situation. For large, subtle fill, I use a large (50" - 60") softbox or brolly-box in conjunction with a 22" beauty dish as the key. I often shoot bare-tube fill, or with just a reflector and sock... it really just depends on what I want to acheive. If I could only have ONE modifier in addition to my beauty dish, it would probably be a large brolly-box/octa-box.

Thanks for the suggestion, and certainly I'm inexperienced in light modifiers.
I admitted that I'll need specific modifiers as I specialize, but the point is, I just wanted to decide on the most versatile (within reason) so I can learn and grow with, and ideally of course I should spend everytime I learn something new, but that's impractical for me!
Many thanks for sharing your experience. Appreciate it.

 

[afifi]

Hey, welcome!

I see 38 views and yet no responses.

Your question is difficult for me to answer. As I think about studio lighting, it seems nearly every situation is different. Meaning; why would I consider the exact same lighting setup for each subject?

You have laid out a starting point that is apparently pre-determined. You have indicated you already have some knowledge concerning light and modifiers. You have also asked a question that is so narrowly defined that I wonder what is it precisely that you don't know.

Maybe you could re-phrase your question.

Thanks.

Thank you, I appreciate your comment! I don't know a lot, that's for sure. I only wanted to know if either modifiers is more space efficient (based on these forum's members experience), which is more versatile for a beginner, and if strip boxes are too specialized. That's all, but sadly background information made it sound like I know it all, oh well!!!!

 

[Mike_E]

60 meters is about right for a guide number of a 300Ws strobe.

Afifi, the best answer to your question might be another question such as what would you most like your portraiture work to look like?

There are so many tools and they all do things differently. It's a little like asking which is the best hammer.

You'll be OK with the octobox and if you have a sock for the grid you can use that as fill or a kicker (the light behind the subject to give separation).

You might consider a 72 inch 5-1 reflector and a 43 inch also. These are a lot cheaper than strobes and can be as effective.

Also, while you're starting out in lighting, Google Subtractive lighting. As it turns out there's a lot more to light than just light.

 

[afifi]

I use speedlights in my home studio - i have an umbreall and a softbox

Thank you! My speedlights are too weak for umbrellas but I think I should opt for simple setup and learn how to actually use it well! Thanks!

 

[afifi]

60 meters is about right for a guide number of a 300Ws strobe.

Afifi, the best answer to your question might be another question such as what would you most like your portraiture work to look like?

There are so many tools and they all do things differently. It's a little like asking which is the best hammer.

You'll be OK with the octobox and if you have a sock for the grid you can use that as fill or a kicker (the light behind the subject to give separation).

You might consider a 72 inch 5-1 reflector and a 43 inch also. These are a lot cheaper than strobes and can be as effective.

Also, while you're starting out in lighting, Google Subtractive lighting. As it turns out there's a lot more to light than just light.

Your comment is really useful! Also, it seems I haven't thought it through before posting! Thank you !

 

[kundalini]

I'm setting up a small home studio (portrait, still life!).....

Thank you! My speedlights are too weak for umbrellas but I think I should opt for simple setup and learn how to actually use it well! Thanks!

I see a slight problem with your thinking. You'll be surprised how little power from your lights is required for a small space. While umbrellas aren't the most efficient for controlling light when fully deployed, you can close them down to get a more defined light spread, particularly a reflective umbrella.

I like to use an octabox for fill, set near the camera and on the same side as the Main light.

 

[tirediron]

My speedlights are too weak for umbrellas

I see a slight problem with your thinking. You'll be surprised how little power from your lights is required for a small space. While umbrellas aren't the most efficient for controlling light when fully deployed, you can close them down to get a more defined light spread, particularly a reflective umbrella.

Missed this in the OP: Kundalini's absolutely right. You need very little power to produce very nice light even in large modifiers. This image used a single SB800 (at 1/4 IIRC) driving a 50" softbox...

 

[Designer]

My speedlights are too weak for umbrellas ..

Oh? Do you mean the light won't penetrate the translucent cloth? What kind of speedlight is "too weak" for umbrellas?

 

[afifi]

My speedlights are too weak for umbrellas ..

Oh? Do you mean the light won't penetrate the translucent cloth? What kind of speedlight is "too weak" for umbrellas?

No, it isn't just the loss due to reflection of the material, but due to scattering! The light won't be as directional, hence less power! Maybe it doesn't matter for an SB-800 or higher, but my cheap speedlight (claimed 38GN, a few tested online found to be 20GN or less!) doesn't cut it. So unless I'm shooting with wide apertures or moving the umbrella really close (and sometimes I don't need that rapid falloff), I have to set it on max power, which is risky for such cheap electronics!

I'm setting up a small home studio (portrait, still life!).....

Thank you! My speedlights are too weak for umbrellas but I think I should opt for simple setup and learn how to actually use it well! Thanks!

I see a slight problem with your thinking. You'll be surprised how little power from your lights is required for a small space. While umbrellas aren't the most efficient for controlling light when fully deployed, you can close them down to get a more defined light spread, particularly a reflective umbrella.

I like to use an octabox for fill, set near the camera and on the same side as the Main light.

That's great! Thanks. I don't have a reflective umbrella, maybe I should.

My speedlights are too weak for umbrellas

I see a slight problem with your thinking. You'll be surprised how little power from your lights is required for a small space. While umbrellas aren't the most efficient for controlling light when fully deployed, you can close them down to get a more defined light spread, particularly a reflective umbrella.

Missed this in the OP: Kundalini's absolutely right. You need very little power to produce very nice light even in large modifiers. This image used a single SB800 (at 1/4 IIRC) driving a 50" softbox...

Great!