Which Tripod to buy?

[Thaash]

SO I am thinking on buying a tripod. WHich one would you suggest for nature shots? DO I need one with a 3D head? Do I really need Manfrotto? Are there cheaper solutions? What should be the minimum weight of a tripod?

I want to use it with my EOS 50D + Sigma 17-70

 

[Derosa]

Not specific to your particular questions, but this recent thread may help:
http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/...gallery/235231-possible-tripod-questions.html

 

[McNugget801]

I thought mannfrotto was the cheaper option

You can only have two of these three things when picking out a tripod.

Sturdy
Lightweight
Inexpensive

now pick two

 

[dxqcanada5]

McNugget is actually correct.

Since I also shoot nature ... I travel a lot, so my tripod has to be lightweight first, sturdy second, inexpensive third.
I use a ball head ... it is small (no arms), and make a nice swivel for rapid camera movements.

There are many good tripod companies ... Manfrotto is one of them.

There is no minimum weight. There are light weight sturdy tripods, but they are usually made of carbon fiber and therefore expensive.

 

[PhotoPoser]

McNugget has it exactly right. But I suggest considering the lifetime value of a quality tripod. You may pay a little more to get sturdy and lightweight and that will be worth it over the very long lifespan of a good tripod. To the contrary, a mediocre tripod will be perpetually frustrating until you get a good one. Then you will have spent twice when a good one would have been better at first.

 

[480sparky67 66]

Choose one that just outside your financial capabilities right now. One that will take another 1-2 weeks in order to afford it. That's the one for you.

 

[clanthar]

I thought mannfrotto was the cheaper option

You can only have two of these three things when picking out a tripod.

Sturdy
Lightweight
Inexpensive

now pick two

No truer words on this forum ever!

Your camera has a reflex mirror. That's a moving part. Just prior to an exposure that mirror is in the light path and must be moved out of the light path. How long are you willing to wait for that? Most photographers prefer as short a delay as possible between the time they press the release and the actual opening of the shutter. Therefore the mirror is moved quickly out of the way with considerable force. It doesn't weigh a lot, but it's moved very fast and try as hard as they may, the engineers must in the end compromise between speed and some amount of shock as the mirror slams into the top of the camera. Your camera may be able to lock up the mirror before you release the shutter -- works for landscapes -- tough for wildlife.

If you get a lightweight metal tripod and then extend a center post on that tripod, the whole thing will likely resonant and actually amplify the vibration from the mirror impact. I've demonstrated this effect many times.

How much should your tripod weigh? Weigh your camera and lens and multiply by 7 for a minimum tripod weight (recommendation per A. Adams when using a reflex camera).

For what it's worth: I've purchased 5 tripods over time. 4 Manfrotto tripods in the first ten years and one Gitzo in the last 25 years. Over the long haul the Manfrottos cost me more money. I'll never replace the Gitzo. Assuming I've got another 20 years of shooting left that'll be 45 years for 1 Gitzo versus 10 years for 4 Manfrottos.

Joe

 

[fokker]

SO I am thinking on buying a tripod. WHich one would you suggest for nature shots? DO I need one with a 3D head? Do I really need Manfrotto? Are there cheaper solutions? What should be the minimum weight of a tripod?

I want to use it with my EOS 50D + Sigma 17-70

Have you considered a gorillapod? Just putting it out there as a cheap, lightweight, portable option. They might not be as solid as a full size metal tripod, but they aren't bad, either.

 

[SunnyHours]

I thought mannfrotto was the cheaper option

You can only have two of these three things when picking out a tripod.

Sturdy
Lightweight
Inexpensive

now pick two

No truer words on this forum ever!

Your camera has a reflex mirror. That's a moving part. Just prior to an exposure that mirror is in the light path and must be moved out of the light path. How long are you willing to wait for that? Most photographers prefer as short a delay as possible between the time they press the release and the actual opening of the shutter. Therefore the mirror is moved quickly out of the way with considerable force. It doesn't weigh a lot, but it's moved very fast and try as hard as they may, the engineers must in the end compromise between speed and some amount of shock as the mirror slams into the top of the camera. Your camera may be able to lock up the mirror before you release the shutter -- works for landscapes -- tough for wildlife.

If you get a lightweight metal tripod and then extend a center post on that tripod, the whole thing will likely resonant and actually amplify the vibration from the mirror impact. I've demonstrated this effect many times.

How much should your tripod weigh? Weigh your camera and lens and multiply by 7 for a minimum tripod weight (recommendation per A. Adams when using a reflex camera).

For what it's worth: I've purchased 5 tripods over time. 4 Manfrotto tripods in the first ten years and one Gitzo in the last 25 years. Over the long haul the Manfrottos cost me more money. I'll never replace the Gitzo. Assuming I've got another 20 years of shooting left that'll be 45 years for 1 Gitzo versus 10 years for 4 Manfrottos.

Joe

Truer words yes I concur,
But I definitely don't agree about the mirror going up statement. That's probably the last thing affecting the shot...Wind could ruin your shot way more than the mirror...

One thing to consider when buying a tripod is the height as well...the higher it is the more stable it'll be the more place it'll take when folded down...

 

[fokker]

I thought mannfrotto was the cheaper option

You can only have two of these three things when picking out a tripod.

Sturdy
Lightweight
Inexpensive

now pick two

You can kind of work around this constraint (which I totally agree with, by the way) with a bit of DIY modification. Do whatever you have to do (drill a hole or two, attach a keyring or hook or some sort) so that you can hang a small bag from the centre of the tripod. Carry this small bag with you, and if you want to take a landscape shot and it's windy or if you just really want the sturdiest mount possible then just fill the bag with sand, rocks, dirt, whatever to weigh it down and dampen vibrations. Thus effectively making a cheap, lightweight tripod more sturdy.

 

[KmH]

You can kind of work around this constraint (which I totally agree with, by the way) with a bit of DIY modification. Do whatever you have to do (drill a hole or two, attach a keyring or hook or some sort) so that you can hang a small bag from the centre of the tripod. Carry this small bag with you, and if you want to take a landscape shot and it's windy or if you just really want the sturdiest mount possible then just fill the bag with sand, rocks, dirt, whatever to weigh it down and dampen vibrations. Thus effectively making a cheap, lightweight tripod more sturdy.

Most good tripods will include a weight hook.

A weight hook, typically on the bottom of the center column, is beneficial because it lowers the center of mass adding a measure of tripod stability, but don't expect a weight bag to significantly improve vibration damping of mirror slap or shutter curtain induced vibrations. Also, be sure the tripod has enough excess weight capacity to handle the additional weight.

As mentioned tripod height is critical because extending the center column seriously reduces a tripods ability to damp camera/lens induced vibrations (don't forget the lens aperture mechanism often changes size for an exposure, and vibrations induced by auto focus if AF is used).

A better vibration damping technique is a weight bag placed on top of the camera/lens.

 

[clanthar]

As mentioned tripod height is critical because extending the center column seriously reduces a tripods ability to damp camera/lens induced vibrations (don't forget the lens aperture mechanism often changes size for an exposure, and vibrations induced by auto focus if AF is used).

If you buy a tripod with an extendable center post and you use a reflex mirror camera you should saw off the bottom end of the center post, fill the post with concrete and re-cap it (extra weight). Then epoxy the center post in place fully lowered so you won't be tempted to do something stupid.

Joe