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Woodsy Zoom

Wow, that second one is trippy! :)

Is that good or bad? ;-)
Good.

Whenever the viewer is "drawn into" a photograph, it makes a connection that mere words would not accomplish.

I got a bit dizzy looking at it, even at the posted size.

This. ^^

One thing to consider doing differently with that technique is having a clearer subject as the focal point.

Actually if I remember correctly, I did focus on one subject, but I think perhaps part of the problem was I was zooming to fast. Thank you for your advice.
 
Dagwood56 said:
You can get some very interesting stuff using the zoom burst technique, I sometimes use it rather than regular ICM. I really like the abstractness of #1 and #3

Yes, this is a good lesson on how the basic zoom technique renders. One tip is to think about what is right in the center of the field...whatever is centered is what ends up being the small, sharp area. I took the liberty of editing the oak tree shot, to which I applied a heavy vignette and some saturation and some brightening up of the image, to emphasize the way this zoom technique "draws". The heavy vignette was used not to improve the photo as much as it was applied to the shot so as to make this more of an example as to how this zoom method emphasizes the central core area. DSC_3987_Derrel's edit_1600x.webp

You might want to consider making some square-format images using this old-school method.
Keep in mind too--zooming from telephoto and back to the shorter length is considered the standard method. (I like about 1/3 to 1/8 second most of the time). Also, how fast the zoom is done, and what the shutter speed is both affect the final result. I've seen some done with Neutral Density filters and 10-30 second exposure times, and that's a whole 'nother deal.

As you can see, that center area has the most clearness to it, but this image does not have a very good, simple subject in that central spot. Something simple and uncluttered is the best subject for this technique...a single tree (an OAK tree!) on top of a hill, back-lighted, at sunrise or at sunset, just might be the quintessential zoom-shot subject.
 
Dagwood56 said:
You can get some very interesting stuff using the zoom burst technique, I sometimes use it rather than regular ICM. I really like the abstractness of #1 and #3

Yes, this is a good lesson on how the basic zoom technique renders. One tip is to think about what is right in the center of the field...whatever is centered is what ends up being the small, sharp area. I took the liberty of editing the oak tree shot, to which I applied a heavy vignette and some saturation and some brightening up of the image, to emphasize the way this zoom technique "draws". The heavy vignette was used not to improve the photo as much as it was applied to the shot so as to make this more of an example as to how this zoom method emphasizes the central core area. (Think about making some square-formatView attachment 117295 images using this.)

As you can see, that center area has the most clearness to it, but this image does not have a very good, simple subject in that central spot. Something simple and uncluttered is the best subject for this technique...a single tree (an OAK tree!) on top of a hill, back-lighted, at sunrise or at sunset, just might be the quintessential zoom-shot subject.

Thanks Derrel for your edit, looks more interesting, and I see what you mean about the central core area. Good advice from you as always. I do appreciate it.
 
Thanks, anamaria. Just another bit of comment about this method, it was developed when zoom lenses hit the market. I have done this a LOT. A lotta' lot. At one time I was shooting these every day for months on end, often with slow speed + flash with the Nikon 28-200 G- lens. Results are varied and unpredictable.

Some lenses are easier than others to shoot this way...if the zoom is a ring-turning model, it can be tougher to control than a slide zoom. Some of the easiest and best zooms are the 1980's Nikon Series E 75-150 f/3.5, and the Nikon 80-200mm f/4 Ai-S--these lenses have a sliding collar that makes it easy to do the zoom, plus they are 2:1 and almost 3:1 ratio, ALL-telephoto lenses, so the image looks different than say, zooming from 28mm to 200mm.

The 80-200 f/4 Ai-S from Nikon is probably the only way to get a professional-grade zoom lens for $59-$79.
 
Thanks, anamaria. Just another bit of comment about this method, it was developed when zoom lenses hit the market. I have done this a LOT. A lotta' lot. At one time I was shooting these every day for months on end, often with slow speed + flash with the Nikon 28-200 G- lens. Results are varied and unpredictable.

Some lenses are easier than others to shoot this way...if the zoom is a ring-turning model, it can be tougher to control than a slide zoom. Some of the easiest and best zooms are the 1980's Nikon Series E 75-150 f/3.5, and the Nikon 80-200mm f/4 Ai-S--these lenses have a sliding collar that makes it easy to do the zoom, plus they are 2:1 and almost 3:1 ratio, ALL-telephoto lenses, so the image looks different than say, zooming from 28mm to 200mm.

The 80-200 f/4 Ai-S from Nikon is probably the only way to get a professional-grade zoom lens for $59-$79.

I can imagine it would be easier to use a slide zoom for sure. Maybe one day I will get one in the future when I can afford it. I bet you had a lot of fun doing zoom shots. At least I'm not the only one who has tried it out :adoration: Would love to see a photo or two of your zoom shots. I appreciate your comments, you would make a good teacher. I have learned from reading your posts. Thanks again.
 
Here's one from a pretty sunrise, just an early morning shot from my back yard. Done with the 80-400 VR zoom lens.

Jan 2 2006 Facebook_small_sunrise.webp


And here it is with the zoom, aimed at the tree to the left.

Jan 2 2006 Facebook_small_sunrise zoom.webp
 

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