X-rite Passport II / Exposure Question

[ARJ3717]

Seeking input surrounding the following question.
My cameras - Sony A7R3 & Canon 5D MK4
My Lenses - Sony Native & Canon Native - No 3rd parties.
Landscape, Portraits - main focus areas of the topic

When exposing the same scene from the same tripod location using the X-rite Passport II included in the scene what's the difference?
There may be a simple answer, but given that the exposure is correct and when processed through PS or LR it appears as though the Canon images look nicer to me (personal preference) than the Sony?

Would be interested in what others have to contribute. (I am a new user of the Sony A7R3)

 

[Ysarex]

Seeking input surrounding the following question.
My cameras - Sony A7R3 & Canon 5D MK4
My Lenses - Sony Native & Canon Native - No 3rd parties.
Landscape, Portraits - main focus areas of the topic

When exposing the same scene from the same tripod location using the X-rite Passport II included in the scene what's the difference?
There may be a simple answer, but given that the exposure is correct and when processed through PS or LR it appears as though the Canon images look nicer to me (personal preference) than the Sony?

Would be interested in what others have to contribute. (I am a new user of the Sony A7R3)

You'll need to provide more info. What are you processing through PS or LR, the JPEGs from each camera or the raw files from each camera?

Canon and Sony both process the photos to a final output JPEG. They each use their own proprietary software to accomplish that task. The results will be different. In supporting the raw files from each camera Adobe adjusts their software (input profiles) with an eye toward the default output from each different camera. So that you shouldn't expect PS/LR to process two different raw files from different cameras to appear the same.

 

[ARJ3717]

From both cameras....Using LR to process RAW files and make adjustments as needed. then saving to jpeg.
Viewing all files (jpegs) on color calibrated MacBook Air laptop.
My initial thought was simply lenses that produce a better personal preference for the Canon and reason for my inquiry.

 

[Ysarex]

From both cameras....Using LR to process RAW files and make adjustments as needed. then saving to jpeg.
Viewing all files (jpegs) on color calibrated MacBook Air laptop.
My initial thought was simply lenses that produce a better personal preference for the Canon and reason for my inquiry.

Lenses certainly can contribute differences in both color and contrast but generally among high quality glass the differences aren't big. I'd be more inclined to think you're seeing differences in Adobe's software treatment of the two different camera brand raw files.

 

[Strodav]

If you are shooting jpg, it could be your camera settings. Things like (auto) white balance, picture control, color space, HDR settings and even image quality can all affect how the camera converts the raw image coming from the sensor to a jpg file. You might want to play around with the settings to see if you can bring them closer together. The lens you are using and any filters can affect color. If you are shooting raw, I believe what you are seeing is the difference in what's called "color science" between the two. If you look online, you can find a lot of discussion on this topic. Tony Northrup (author of the best selling "Stunning Digital Photography" book) did a video worth watching on color science .

What to do. Calibrate your monitor and printer, if you have one, to srgb or Adobe rgb (if your monitor supports this color space). Use the gray scale on the X-rite Passport in your shot to set the white balance in Post, then use the color sliders and tone curves to adjust for pleasing memory colors. Don't overdo it. Too many images I see online are way over processed, especially with over saturated color and over sharpening. In general, people prefer warmer images, so you might want to move the color temp slider towards warm just a touch. If your shot was intentionally shot with a cast in the light like during the golden or blue hours or using color filters or even yellow incandescent light, then the color checker won't be much help, you are on your own in adjusting color. When exporting your final image "color space" should be one of the options. Choose srgb.

Here's a video you are going to want to see Let's talk color science: Canon EOS 5D Mark IV vs Sony A7R III video-comparison

 

[Ysarex]

If you are shooting jpg, it could be your camera settings. Things like (auto) white balance, picture control, color space, HDR settings and even image quality can all affect how the camera converts the raw image coming from the sensor to a jpg file. You might want to play around with the settings to see if you can bring them closer together. The lens you are using and any filters can affect color. If you are shooting raw, I believe what you are seeing is the difference in what's called "color science" between the two. If you look online, you can find a lot of discussion on this topic. Tony Northrup (author of the best selling "Stunning Digital Photography" book) did a video worth watching on color science .

What to do. Calibrate your monitor and printer, if you have one, to srgb or Adobe rgb (if your monitor supports this color space).

We don't calibrate our monitors to device independent color spaces. sRGB and Adobe RGB are device independent color spaces. We manufacture monitors to be physically capable of displaying a color space gamut. When we calibrate them we calibrate them to an industry standard white point and an external illumination level. Then we profile them which creates a device dependent ICC profile for that specific display.

Use the gray scale on the X-rite Passport in your shot to set the white balance in Post, then use the color sliders and tone curves to adjust for pleasing memory colors. Don't overdo it. Too many images I see online are way over processed, especially with over saturated color and over sharpening. In general, people prefer warmer images, so you might want to move the color temp slider towards warm just a touch. If your shot was intentionally shot with a cast in the light like during the golden or blue hours or using color filters or even yellow incandescent light, then the color checker won't be much help, you are on your own in adjusting color. When exporting your final image "color space" should be one of the options. Choose srgb.

Here's a video you are going to want to see Let's talk color science: Canon EOS 5D Mark IV vs Sony A7R III video-comparison

 

[ARJ3717]

Thank you to all who have presented here. Found the Tony Northrup video on Color Science informative and useful.