Home developing first results

[vintagesnaps]

Those are really nice photos.

I've read that people use vinegar (for darkroom work and for house cleaning) but to me, that would smell worse than the chemistry - seriously! A little goes a long way for me, I'd just get some stop.

You could practice loading film on the reel, I've used a roll that didn't turn out, sit and practice while you're watching TV or something.

From what I've seen and read, xray film can scratch really easily, maybe if you try something new do that once you feel like you've got this process down.

You got beautiful results.

 

[Light Guru]

From what I've seen and read, xray film can scratch really easily, maybe if you try something new do that once you feel like you've got this process down.

Yes it will scratch easily, but you must understand it is NOT a roll film. It comes in sheets and you shoot it in sheets using a large format camera. You then develop it in trays or in a did and dunk system. Its not a type of film that you would me handling heavily and rolling onto reels.

 

[limr]

The only things I have to add:

1. I don't use a stop bath either, but I also use Caffenol and as far as I know or have read, water is just fine as a stop bath for that developer.

2. The 5/10/20 washing scheme is Ilfords recommended washing method and I've used that with no issues. Well, actually, I do 5/10/15/20 because I'm kind of OCD that way

Oh, and also, welcome to the home developing club! Your welcome packet and member button will be in the mail and should arrive shortly!

Seriously, it felt pretty magical to see those images on the film, right??

 

[480sparky]

Only if the film is not sensitive to red light. And if it were that way, you'd end up with very funny looking images.

It acutely would not look all that funny. The early forms of photography used orthochromatic emulsions aka not sensitive to red light. There are actually a surprising number of large format photographers that use x-ray film to take pictures even though it is a orthochromatic film. X-ray film is dirt cheep and you can develop it under red light conditions.

If it's not sensitive to red wavelengths, then anything red in the scene would be rendered black. Same effect as shooting with a blue filter.

 

[gsgary]

No need for pre wash, I agitate for first 30 seconds and then 4 inversions every minute

 

[gsgary]

NO! Film has to be loaded in COMPLETE darkness. Why no stop bath?

OK, thanks for the important info regarding the light. There was no stop bath in the starter kit I bought, and the book I followed also didn't use it.

I never saw a development difference between using a prewash or not prewashing. I think you need to wash the film better than three tanks fulls. Something like three to five minutes in running water (the tank under the faucet). Careful with the agitation.

OK, thanks. I did the pre-wash because the book I was following recommended it. Why the warning about agitation? Should I leave that part out?

Regular household vinegar will work in a pinch; a lot better than just plain water, that's for sure. I never bothered with a pre-wash either, but I know people who swore by it... I definitely agree with Gary on the washing though (Missed that on my first read). I would consider 5 minutes an absolute minimum in running water. Are you using a Patterson tank, or one of the stainless-steel styles?

I'll order a stop bath for next time. But If I used vinegar, what sort of amount is needed?

I have a Paterson daylight tank.

I'll wash as advised next time. Should the water be lukewarm or is cold OK? Can it be seen on my results that the washing wasn't adequate?

You will only know in 20 years or so if your washing was insufficient, I use a force washer for 5-10 minutes

 

[Fred Berg]

You don't need a darkroom to develop the film. It's nice, but a dark bag will do as well.

Yes, a bag will be ordered when I need to replenish the chemicals. I'd like to try wet printing, though, and the store do nice starter packs with an enlarger, lens, trays, etc,. I think I'm hooked!

I'll order a stop bath for next time. But If I used vinegar, what sort of amount is needed? The couple of times I used it, I just poured it right out of the gallon container from the kitchen full strength.

I have a Paterson daylight tank. For washing, crack the lid and just run the water down the center "funnel"; 1-2 times a minute, invert it and pour all the water out.

I'll wash as advised next time. Should the water be lukewarm or is cold OK? Can it be seen on my results that the washing wasn't adequate? I always had all my fluids at the same temperature unless the manufacturer recommdended differently. The most apparent evidence of inadequate washing is the appearance of white/yellowish patches of powder on the negative, which is dried fixer.

Bear in mind... it's been a long time since I've been in a wet darkroom; things may have changed. Someone like Limr or gsgary can probably give you more up-to-date advice.

Thanks for the info.

I'll wash as advised next time. Should the water be lukewarm or is cold OK? Can it be seen on my results that the washing wasn't adequate?

I prefer the same temperature for wash as what the rest of the liquids were prior to it. In my case, 68°F.

I'll do the same, then. Thanks.

Over agitation = grain. I found that I had good negative with minimal agitation ... but start with the book then over time reduce the agitation slightly until you have the results you seek.

Good to know. I have a note book to keep track of things a bit, so that I can try to get consistent results; I'll also note how much agitation I used and compare results.

Only if the film is not sensitive to red light. And if it were that way, you'd end up with very funny looking images.

It acutely would not look all that funny. The early forms of photography used orthochromatic emulsions aka not sensitive to red light. There are actually a surprising number of large format photographers that use x-ray film to take pictures even though it is a orthochromatic film. X-ray film is dirt cheep and you can develop it under red light conditions.

Thanks for the info on X-ray film.

Those are really nice photos.

I've read that people use vinegar (for darkroom work and for house cleaning) but to me, that would smell worse than the chemistry - seriously! A little goes a long way for me, I'd just get some stop.

You could practice loading film on the reel, I've used a roll that didn't turn out, sit and practice while you're watching TV or something.

From what I've seen and read, xray film can scratch really easily, maybe if you try something new do that once you feel like you've got this process down.

You got beautiful results.

Thank you very much. Yes, I really must practise at loading the reel! I tried it a few times over the last few days with old films and was able to do it with my eyes closed, but it was a different story with a live run!

From what I've seen and read, xray film can scratch really easily, maybe if you try something new do that once you feel like you've got this process down.

Yes it will scratch easily, but you must understand it is NOT a roll film. It comes in sheets and you shoot it in sheets using a large format camera. You then develop it in trays or in a did and dunk system. Its not a type of film that you would me handling heavily and rolling onto reels.

Maybe something for the future, then. For now, I'm strictly 35mm.

The only things I have to add:

1. I don't use a stop bath either, but I also use Caffenol and as far as I know or have read, water is just fine as a stop bath for that developer.

2. The 5/10/20 washing scheme is Ilfords recommended washing method and I've used that with no issues. Well, actually, I do 5/10/15/20 because I'm kind of OCD that way

Oh, and also, welcome to the home developing club! Your welcome packet and member button will be in the mail and should arrive shortly!

Seriously, it felt pretty magical to see those images on the film, right??

If I do it this way again, I'll add the extra 15 inversions

I look forward to getting my badge; actually I thought about having a T-shirt made that says, Late Developer. Yes, It felt very good seeing the images, although when i took the reel out of the tank all I could see was dark, clear film and I thought I'd botched it. But when I rolled it out, those babies were there!

No need for pre wash, I agitate for first 30 seconds and then 4 inversions every minute

Thanks, Gary. I'll try it this way, too.


[/QUOTE]
You will only know in 20 years or so if your washing was insufficient, I use a force washer for 5-10 minutes[/QUOTE]

That's what I feared but by then I'll be too far gone to care. Info on washing very useful.

 

[dxqcanada]

The Adonal/Rodinal data sheet says to agitate continously for first minute then tilt once every 30s.

I've always done that when I use Rodinal.

 

[SoulfulRecover]

this thread is killing me! I may have to set up a dark room now haha

 

[limr]

this thread is killing me! I may have to set up a dark room now haha

Yes, you do!

 

[limr]

If I do it this way again, I'll add the extra 15 inversions

I look forward to getting my badge; actually I thought about having a T-shirt made that says, Late Developer. Yes, It felt very good seeing the images, although when i took the reel out of the tank all I could see was dark, clear film and I thought I'd botched it. But when I rolled it out, those babies were there!

That's a good idea for a t-shirt. In the meantime, perhaps this one will do
"Sunny 16 Rule - White" T-Shirts & Hoodies by Alessandro Arcidiacono | Redbubble

 

[KenC]

I never used stop bath for film. It would have two functions: (1) stop development, and (2) remove most of the developer so it doesn't react with the fixer. A simple water wash dilutes the residual developer so much it accomplishes both goals as well as a dilute acid.

Printing, imo, is different because the developing times are shorter, so I wanted to shut down development immediately. I used vinegar, diluted by an amount I don't remember, until someone gave me some bottles of stop bath from a camera store that was going out of business, so then I used that. You would want to use the colorless vinegar.

 

[Fred Berg]

The Adonal/Rodinal data sheet says to agitate continously for first minute then tilt once every 30s.

I've always done that when I use Rodinal.

Thanks for the info, I'll look that up.

this thread is killing me! I may have to set up a dark room now haha

Doing the developing for myself was very satisfying. I will definitely be investing in an enlarger as my next step.

If I do it this way again, I'll add the extra 15 inversions

I look forward to getting my badge; actually I thought about having a T-shirt made that says, Late Developer. Yes, It felt very good seeing the images, although when i took the reel out of the tank all I could see was dark, clear film and I thought I'd botched it. But when I rolled it out, those babies were there!

That's a good idea for a t-shirt. In the meantime, perhaps this one will do
"Sunny 16 Rule - White" T-Shirts & Hoodies by Alessandro Arcidiacono | Redbubble

Looks good...only I'm in Central Europe so no need to go more than f8 most of the time!

I never used stop bath for film. It would have two functions: (1) stop development, and (2) remove most of the developer so it doesn't react with the fixer. A simple water wash dilutes the residual developer so much it accomplishes both goals as well as a dilute acid.

Printing, imo, is different because the developing times are shorter, so I wanted to shut down development immediately. I used vinegar, diluted by an amount I don't remember, until someone gave me some bottles of stop bath from a camera store that was going out of business, so then I used that. You would want to use the colorless vinegar.

Thanks for the info, Ken. I'll look into how much vinegar to mix since it's been mentioned a couple of times now.

 

[SoulfulRecover]

Im pretty sure my wife would kill me if I turned our bathroom into a dark room. Well, mostly having an enlarger in there. Plus she would complain about me putting everything away when I am done. She complains about a sheet of glass I use to recover my instant film negatives that's probably 12"x10" hahahahaha

 

[compur]

Good job of developing your film and nice photos!

Ahhhh! To stop bath or not to stop bath, that is the question ...

Here are some excerpts from The Darkroom Cookbook, Third Edition (2008) by Steve Anchell which you might like. These excerpts concern reasons for not using an acid stop bath. On the other hand Steve also gives advice in the book on how to use acid stop baths if you still prefer to use them and gives some recommendations and/or formulas for some.

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Whether or not to use an acid stop bath or a plain running-water bath has been a longstanding controversy among photographers. There are two reasons cited for using an acid stop bath. First, it arrests development in the shortest possible time. The second is, “That’s the way I was taught.”

Even so, the disadvantages to using acid stop bath are:

● When sodium carbonate, one of the most commonly used alkali in film developers, comes into contact with acid, carbon dioxide gas is released which can cause blistering in the emulsion of both film and paper. The problem is more critical in film where it is appears as a pinhole, usually in dense areas of silver deposits such as the sky. …

● The fumes which emanate from acetic acid stop baths are perhaps the single greatest health hazard in the darkroom. Over time, these fumes can cause damage to the delicate membrane of the sinuses, resulting in respiratory problems. …

While a running water bath will not stop development as rapidly as an acid stop bath, it will slow it down to the point that the amount of residual development is insignificant.
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