Home developing first results

Does your motor have a setting where it will not rewind into the canister but leave the leader out as many newer (read: post 1990) cameras can? Also, if your motor is on an older manual-ish camera you could always remove it and rewind manually. Stop when the film comes off the winding gear. You can tell.
 
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Problem solved.
 
I start the loading on the real before it goes in the changing bag with 35mm because you have plenty at the start of the film that has already been exposed while loading

I could do this with my next film as it's in a K1000 but I read on another forum that pulling the film back through the felt can lead to scratching and dust. Have you experienced these problems or was the poster just scaremongering?
 
I start the loading on the real before it goes in the changing bag with 35mm because you have plenty at the start of the film that has already been exposed while loading

I could do this with my next film as it's in a K1000 but I read on another forum that pulling the film back through the felt can lead to scratching and dust. Have you experienced these problems or was the poster just scaremongering?
Ive never had scratches I roll my own and make sure they are clean, you could still start it off and pop the top off in the bag
 
On my next batch of film with will try the Ilford 5-10-20. As for agitation, I invert a couple of times at the start of development and then maybe once or twice over the full development. I sorta expose for this agitation methodology. It works for me. But this is on the extreme end of agitation which why I suggested to reduce your agitation over time.

The next film is T-Max 100 and I'll be using Adonal 1+25, 6 minutes, 20°C. Should I reduce the agitation? Is there any specific advice you could give for T-Max?
 
I start the loading on the real before it goes in the changing bag with 35mm because you have plenty at the start of the film that has already been exposed while loading

I could do this with my next film as it's in a K1000 but I read on another forum that pulling the film back through the felt can lead to scratching and dust. Have you experienced these problems or was the poster just scaremongering?
Ive never had scratches I roll my own and make sure they are clean, you could still start it off and pop the top off in the bag

Thanks, Gary. I'll try it, then.
 
On my next batch of film with will try the Ilford 5-10-20. As for agitation, I invert a couple of times at the start of development and then maybe once or twice over the full development. I sorta expose for this agitation methodology. It works for me. But this is on the extreme end of agitation which why I suggested to reduce your agitation over time.

The next film is T-Max 100 and I'll be using Adonal 1+25, 6 minutes, 20°C. Should I reduce the agitation? Is there any specific advice you could give for T-Max?
I shot some tmax100 @400 by mistake and used stand development with rodinal and it came out fantastic it even wet printed well, if I remember ill post some shots when I get home
 
On my next batch of film with will try the Ilford 5-10-20. As for agitation, I invert a couple of times at the start of development and then maybe once or twice over the full development. I sorta expose for this agitation methodology. It works for me. But this is on the extreme end of agitation which why I suggested to reduce your agitation over time.

The next film is T-Max 100 and I'll be using Adonal 1+25, 6 minutes, 20°C. Should I reduce the agitation? Is there any specific advice you could give for T-Max?
I shot some tmax100 @400 by mistake and used stand development with rodinal and it came out fantastic it even wet printed well, if I remember ill post some shots when I get home

Cheers, Gary. Look forward to seeing the results you got.
 
On my next batch of film with will try the Ilford 5-10-20. As for agitation, I invert a couple of times at the start of development and then maybe once or twice over the full development. I sorta expose for this agitation methodology. It works for me. But this is on the extreme end of agitation which why I suggested to reduce your agitation over time.

The next film is T-Max 100 and I'll be using Adonal 1+25, 6 minutes, 20°C. Should I reduce the agitation? Is there any specific advice you could give for T-Max?
I shot some tmax100 @400 by mistake and used stand development with rodinal and it came out fantastic it even wet printed well, if I remember ill post some shots when I get home

Cheers, Gary. Look forward to seeing the results you got.

Here you go tmax100 @ 400

Scan-130721-0001-XL.jpg


Scan-130819-0001%20%282%29-XL.jpg


Scan-130819-0002%20%282%29-XL.jpg


This is a scan of a wet print from an HP5 negative that was stand developed in the fridge

print20-XL.jpg
 
On my next batch of film with will try the Ilford 5-10-20. As for agitation, I invert a couple of times at the start of development and then maybe once or twice over the full development. I sorta expose for this agitation methodology. It works for me. But this is on the extreme end of agitation which why I suggested to reduce your agitation over time.

The next film is T-Max 100 and I'll be using Adonal 1+25, 6 minutes, 20°C. Should I reduce the agitation? Is there any specific advice you could give for T-Max?
I shot some tmax100 @400 by mistake and used stand development with rodinal and it came out fantastic it even wet printed well, if I remember ill post some shots when I get home

Cheers, Gary. Look forward to seeing the results you got.

Here you go tmax100 @ 400

Scan-130721-0001-XL.jpg


Scan-130819-0001%20%282%29-XL.jpg


Scan-130819-0002%20%282%29-XL.jpg

Very nice, Gary. Did you use stand development because you realised you'd shot the roll at the wrong speed?
 
Yes I thought I was shooting HP5 I usually have some masking tape on the bottom of my camera a write what film is in the camera
 
Yes I thought I was shooting HP5 I usually have some masking tape on the bottom of my camera a write what film is in the camera

Good idea, I'll do the same in future. It's good to know that things can be compensated for in the developing stage if you flunk up in camera. This is a bit like pushing and pulling, isn't it?
 

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