Why not have third wheel for Dslrs?

meh...
on Nikons, you just hold a button and spin a wheel.
its not really a huge deal.
although, thats simply how I feel.
 
I'm hoping for future Dslrs will come up with a third wheel to adjust ISO value. It would be much easier and quicker that way.

The future is the past and it's here!

Fuji_X-T1_34-580-100.jpg


Joe

edit: Oops, that's a Fuji X-T1.
 
I'm hoping for future Dslrs will come up with a third wheel to adjust ISO value. It would be much easier and quicker that way.

The future is the past and it's here!

Fuji_X-T1_34-580-100.jpg


Joe

edit: Oops, that's a Fuji X-T1.
that is even slower. Kind of like spinning them on my film cameras. On my nikon i just flip the command wheel. I can even do it while looking through the viewfinder. Also it lacks top screen. the wheels are cool, dont get me wrong. But aren't more efficient or a good use of space imo. I would still like to have top wheels though, not because they are better. But old school. Aint none of these buttons or wheels do you good in the dark unless you have a lit screen to see where your settings are at. I have to use my cigarette lighter or a cellphone light, car interior light to see my settings.
 
I actually stopped worrying about ISO, I just put it on Auto and concentrate at composition but a third dial would be nice, not a huge deal but I am always happy to have a system that is as easy to use as possible.
 
On my Nikon D7000 I can set item d3 to "easy ISO" and this will change the wheel functions depending on mode.

in A mode the front command wheel will change the Aperture, and the normally unused rear command wheel will be for adjusting ISO. Also the LCD display on top will change from showing the shots remaining to the ISO value selected.

In P or S mode's the rear wheel is for adjusting either Shutter speed or Program modes, and the front dial becomes the ISO adjustment.

If you select M mode then the camera reverts back to you having to press the ISO button on the back of the body to adjust ISO.

However one caveat with this feature is that when carrying the camera on my shoulder strap and letting hang by my side, I have inadvertently moved the command dial when the camera brushed against my body changing the ISO value so you have to be aware of this and check it before you begin shooting. Because of this I have set the camera back to the default setting and use the button on the back to change ISO if needed.
 
On my Nikon D7000 I can set item d3 to "easy ISO" and this will change the wheel functions depending on mode.

in A mode the front command wheel will change the Aperture, and the normally unused rear command wheel will be for adjusting ISO. Also the LCD display on top will change from showing the shots remaining to the ISO value selected.

In P or S mode's the rear wheel is for adjusting either Shutter speed or Program modes, and the front dial becomes the ISO adjustment.

If you select M mode then the camera reverts back to you having to press the ISO button on the back of the body to adjust ISO.

However one caveat with this feature is that when carrying the camera on my shoulder strap and letting hang by my side, I have inadvertently moved the command dial when the camera brushed against my body changing the ISO value so you have to be aware of this and check it before you begin shooting. Because of this I have set the camera back to the default setting and use the button on the back to change ISO if needed.
me too. Have put it on easy iso just to put it back again.
 
I don't find myself changing ISO very often beyond the initial setup.
 
I usually set the ISO when raising the camera as it is easy to do then and see on the top screen, especially for the first shot of the day where I probably still have some high ISO from the night before. I'm sure it could be made easier.

I think I rarely change ISO while looking through the viewfinder unless I am trying to be very still or the camera is on a tripod and my left hand is free.
 
runnah said:
I don't find myself changing ISO very often beyond the initial setup.

Same here....last summer I used my Nikon's AUTO ISO setup a fair amount, in order to work in manual exposure mode, with a specific f/stop and a specific shutter speed dialed in, and allowing the ISO to fluctuate to maintain that specific f/stop and shutter speed pairing to get the right exposure. One day for example, at the beach, with a very steady 20 MPH wind out of the north, the exposure much of the day was f/5.6 at 1/1250 second, occasionally 1/1600 second, to freeze motion and counteract the wind.

On my last studio session I shot 705 frames, ALL at 1/200 second and ISO 100 at f/7.1. so...I set the ISO to 100 and left it there for about three hours.
 
The setup I've gotten used to is setting aperture and SS, then using auto-ISO, but using the dedicated exposure compensation dial to essentially control ISO. For example, if I have my camera set at f/4, 1/250, and the auto ISO says ISO800 will give me a neutral photo, I can then dial back a stop of exposure compensation and it will switch the ISO to 400.

Essentially this allows me to control ISO when I want, but also just let the camera decide at other times. I usually allow the camera to run from 200-6400. Though if I'm consistently hitting 6400, I'll usually adjust aperture or shutter speed. But ISO 6400 looks pretty good on the Fuji for most types of shooting, so I don't worry about it too terribly much. The only real noise I ever see in that scenario is in almost black areas, which is pretty easy to remove in post if need be.

If this is ISO5000, why wouldn't I just let the auto ISO on the camera run wild, letting me set aperture and SS at whatever I want?

16923210101_ca7e362a48_o.jpg


Now, with my D7100, I have to generally try to keep it under 3200, and preferably under 1600. With my old 7D, I had to really be careful to keep ISO under 800. Heck, I could even see the difference between 100 and 400 on that thing.

But the X100T and D600? Nah, don't even have to worry about ISO at all all the way up to ISO 6400. Like not even a concern at all.
 
I don't change ISO often either. When I do, it's really easy on the Canon bodies I use.

Everything is right there at my index finger; Shutter button, ISO button and control wheel are all right next to each other. There's no hunting involved, no confusion, no fuss.

While looking through the viewfinder with my index finger resting on the shutter button, it's ridiculously easy to press the ISO button, see "ISO" highlight in the viewfinder, spin the wheel to the ISO I desire, and move my finger back to the shutter button again, without ever pulling my eye away from the viewfinder, looking on top of the camera, turning on a light, or any of that stuff.

Personally, I'm good without yet another wheel just for ISO.
 
The wheels on my camera go 'round and 'round ...

Outside I'm generally in auto ISO which I push the ISO button then spin the front dial to go in and out of auto. If I'm not in auto ISO with the button down I spin the rear dial to change iso. In the studio I set it to 100 or 200 and forget it.

So the nikons its a button then dial
So you just have to know where the button is - memorize it if you find yourself searching around for it. When I push the ISO button, the rear and top LCD displays everything else disappears except the ISO. So you can see what you pushed. Once your used to it you can see the changes as you spin the dial in the viewfinder.

So it's all just becoming accustomed to what button is where .. Practice.

My d7000 though does not support setting auto ISO on/off with he dial but only in the menu which I have a quick menu setup for that.

Without button+dial we'd be having dials for all the buttons. Imagine the craziness accidental changes with that. Unless there was a lock button required to be held. But then you would still have to know which dial is which. :)
 
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