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3rd attempt at studio shoot with my son!AV

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SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! I took what yal said. Read some more in Understanding Exposure! Took notes! I also read into the TV and AV modes and figured this will be a good place to start in understanding exposure more. I punch one of the numbers in it figures out the others or I punch in 2 it figures out the 3rd for a perfect exposure shot!! I also read up on setting up my lights. Over all I have been setting it up kinda accurately. One thing that I did notice after afew shots and I would guess the first couple had the issue, but my aperture was blinking which mean't it wouldn't be a perfect exposure. Towards the end I really watched for it tho. Also, same as last shoot. no trim up to connect the 2 drops (need to purchase still), no plywood under floordrop so stuff sank into carpet (also need to purchase)

None of these are edited I'm still perfering cc on my lighting, focus issues I do think a few of these I should put in PS and work some magic with.

Overall I know these are not perfect but I think they are better then the 2nd attempt studio shots I had posted yesterday. I also think that I was getting a feel for the settings a bit too b/c I think you can see a progression from the 1st photo to the last.

Sorry its 7 pics but I wanted to explain things with each one and see what yal think!

IMG_7976 by Rebecca Andresen Photography, on Flickr
Info: TV mode, awb, 1/200, f5.0, iso 100
One of the first shots. My iso is too low.


IMG_8000 by Rebecca Andresen Photography, on Flickr
Info: TV mode,awb, 1/200, f5.6, iso 100
So this was one of the first of the day. I selected a faster shutter speed b/c he's a crazy 2yr old. I had set it to 100iso to test it and thus it came up with f5.6 I think this picture could have been better if I had uped the iso to 400 or 800. I also re read my manual and uhhhh noticed that my f stop was blinking so thus this picture was just NOT RIGHT! Is it b/c my iso was set so low??


IMG_8034 by Rebecca Andresen Photography, on Flickr
Info: TV mode, awb, 1/125, f2.8, iso400
As far as the blankie on the floor causing it to wash out down there, I think is one of the better ones.


IMG_8036 by Rebecca Andresen Photography, on Flickr
Info: TV mode, awb, 1/125, f5.0, iso 400
Ok so the reason for putting this one up is the previous photo and this one are just 2 photos off. The only thing that changed was my f. stop. I think the f5.0 is too dark. Either I should have step upped m fstop or my iso correct??


IMG_8048 by Rebecca Andresen Photography, on Flickr
Info: TV mode, awb, 1/125, f5.0, iso 800
Had changed things so my iso was upped just don't like it. Should have lowered the fstop and kept my iso about 400?


IMG_8062 by Rebecca Andresen Photography, on Flickr
Info: TV mode, awb, 1/80, f5.0, iso 800
I feel like his face is a bit out of focus. Yea the blankie is washed out, was just trying to get him to sit in that one spot so blankie I dont care. I think this could be one that should go to PS and play with it. Over all I like it. I think? and I do know his toes are cut off wasn't really worrying about composition so much.


IMG_8076 by Rebecca Andresen Photography, on Flickr
Info: TV mode, awb, 1/80, f4.5, iso800
yup blankies washed out. I just came up with an idea. We have darker colored blankies and colored blankies. next time I wont toss him the white and light colored ones we'll go with the others to help that issue.

So I hope you guys see some type of pergression. I feel like today's look a bit better then the other days. I know they're still not right.

Please refer sites for lighting. I used one but was ish about it....

Thanks for the CC guys! Always welcomed :)
 
He is too close to the background, why not shoot in manual set your aperture to F8 shutter 1/125 spot meter your sons skin and raise your ISO until your meter tells you the exposure is correct
 
He is too close to the background, why not shoot in manual set your aperture to F8 shutter 1/125 spot meter your sons skin and raise your ISO until your meter tells you the exposure is correct

I'll try it out tomorrow :) Just wrote it down and posted to my fridge :)
 
Honestly..... I don't get spot metering too well at all. I've read the section in that manual 30x and can't change what I want I'm so oober frustrated with it. Any canon users have any tips for it??

From what I understand with spot metering don't u select where u want it to meter? Can't you pick more then one spot too? Say I shoot with the sky bright as heck behind me. can't I select gavins face AND the sky and have the camera come up with a happy inbetween?? I can't figure out how to get my camera to select more then one spot.... ok select a spot lol
 
how did you light it? I think you are still missing the "basic".
 
I agree schwettylens. Im struggling in that area.

I have 3 lights, that equal 1800w. My floor drop is 5ft by 5ft. I placed one light on the edge of each corner (furthurest away from the backdrop) They were about 4ft high. the shortest they could go. The 3rd one I placed almost on top of the one directly on the right. My living room isn't wide enough for me to put it more in the center and be able to take the picture with out getting any of the lighting equip. in the picture. I also kept that one the same height as the other 2 and now looking I think I should have raised that one more and aim it more behind gavin to cut the shadow down. If you know of a good read to help me figure out how to set up correctly Id die for it! The umbrelleas were about 30-45degree angle.
 
From what I understand with spot metering don't u select where u want it to meter? Can't you pick more then one spot too? Say I shoot with the sky bright as heck behind me. can't I select gavins face AND the sky and have the camera come up with a happy inbetween?? I can't figure out how to get my camera to select more then one spot.... ok select a spot lol

Spot metering is just that; it meters only one spot, approximately 4% dead center in viewfinder. It can't meter more than one spot for a "compromise" exposure. With strong back lighting, as per your example, you would meter the sky, then use flash for your subject.
 
If I may, I think the biggest problem here is that you're trying to run before you've fully learned to walk. You're trying to learn studio lighting and yet you're still unsure (at least to judge by some of your questions) about the basics of the Exposure Triangle (The inter-relation of ISO, Shutter-Speed and Aperture).

I would suggest reading the tutorials here, especially those in the "How your camera works" section. If you can, I would also buy or borrow Peterson's "Understanding Exposure". Once you clearly understand the basics of exposure and how to "get what you want" then move on to studio lighting.

Another part of your difficulty as I see it, is that you're working in a very confined space, and with continuous lighting, which is not the best for this sort of work (it will do the job, but it's more challenging). You should also be clear on metering (see tutorials), and understand the difference between reflected and incident metering, and when each is appropriate.
 
If you use continuous lighting, then you just have to use the camera meter to guide you. If you are using flash, then it is completely different animal.
 
tirediron said:
If I may, I think the biggest problem here is that you're trying to run before you've fully learned to walk. You're trying to learn studio lighting and yet you're still unsure (at least to judge by some of your questions) about the basics of the Exposure Triangle (The inter-relation of ISO, Shutter-Speed and Aperture).

I would suggest reading the tutorials here, especially those in the "How your camera works" section. If you can, I would also buy or borrow Peterson's "Understanding Exposure". Once you clearly understand the basics of exposure and how to "get what you want" then move on to studio lighting.

Another part of your difficulty as I see it, is that you're working in a very confined space, and with continuous lighting, which is not the best for this sort of work (it will do the job, but it's more challenging). You should also be clear on metering (see tutorials), and understand the difference between reflected and incident metering, and when each is appropriate.

I'd say u hit the nail on the head there! I'm. Trying to learn everything and just gotta slow down
 
IIRC, unlike the equivelent Nikon DSLR, the Canon T21's spot metering mode does not attach to the focal point selected. Rather it is locked to the middle of the image frame, concurrent with the middle focus point even when the middle focus point is not the selected focus point.

Unfortunately, Canon's user's manuals are some of the worst in the industry, but they certainly can't mention that their T21 offers less functionability than a competitors equivelent camera.

However, if you understood how metering works (notice the size of the spot in the 'spot metering mode' and other metering mode graphics on page 86 of your T2i user's manual, you could test to see if the spot metering point follows the selected focus point by having a bright part of a scene at the center of the frame, and the center focus point selected, with a dark part of the same scene behind an outlaying focus point, and then without moving the camera much, if at all, change from the center focus point to the outlaying focus pont and see if the in-camera meter indicates a lower light level.
 
tirediron said:
If I may, I think the biggest problem here is that you're trying to run before you've fully learned to walk. You're trying to learn studio lighting and yet you're still unsure (at least to judge by some of your questions) about the basics of the Exposure Triangle (The inter-relation of ISO, Shutter-Speed and Aperture).

I would suggest reading the tutorials here, especially those in the "How your camera works" section. If you can, I would also buy or borrow Peterson's "Understanding Exposure". Once you clearly understand the basics of exposure and how to "get what you want" then move on to studio lighting.

Another part of your difficulty as I see it, is that you're working in a very confined space, and with continuous lighting, which is not the best for this sort of work (it will do the job, but it's more challenging). You should also be clear on metering (see tutorials), and understand the difference between reflected and incident metering, and when each is appropriate.

I'd say u hit the nail on the head there! I'm. Trying to learn everything and just gotta slow down

Exactly. The reason that your F number was blinking is because it wanted to give you a wider setting but was incapable given that lens at that focal length. It was maxed out. That is why the shots are underexposed ( ISO could have fixed this although added more noise possibly ). You definately need to slow down as other say because it seems like you are spinning your wheels every time you post on here. Its always the same thing - trying to shoot portraits with strobes, but the issue always falls back to being simple lack of understanding on your cameras function and settings. Look in your viewfinder at your meter. Its displayed at the bottom in increments. As you change the settings, keep your eye to the viewfinder and watch the marking move. If you are turning the Av wheel and that meter is not moving, that means you must be maxed out.



 
IIRC, unlike the equivelent Nikon DSLR, the Canon T21's spot metering mode does not attach to the focal point selected.

Unfortunately, Canon's user's manuals are some of the worst in the industry, but they certainly can't mention that their T21 offers less functionability than a competitors equivelent camera.
Are you secretly Ashton Kutcher doing a paid advertisement for Nikon?:lol: Not sure how disparaging her brand of camera is helping her.
 
Thanks goonies. Yea I'm just gonna focus more on exposure and finishing the book understanding exposure. I also looked into some classes at the local colleges. I know once I get it I'll get it. Ya know. It's just baffling my brain in the mean time lol.

Gary I am gonna go with one light when I do attempt it again. Start smaller and work my way up.
 

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