5d mark II help

Overread · Oct 26, 2011

Looks perfectly fine to me as well. Remember a larger sensor and MP value means that your 5DMII 100% view is much more magnified than with previous lower MP camera bodies; this what can appear softer at 100% is actually a lot sharper when viewed at a more comparable magnification and when put into proper use (eg print or web posting) the shots (with processing of course to account for reszing for output) should be of a higher quality in general.

enerlevel · Oct 26, 2011

humm thts weird.... the shot is pretty soft compared to my 600D with 17-55 f2.8 lens....
if u notice, the surroundings are very sharp but the main object of focus point is not as sharp as the surroundings...

Overread · Oct 26, 2011

It's tricky to tell because of the material its made from - it might be the surface and the light itself resulting in muted contrast differences over the surface as compared to the background areas. However it could also be a miss-focus or even a slight amount of back focusing.
You can test focus accuracy with a simple test - a ruler shot at 45degrees to the camera as close as you can - you can then see if the point you focused on is really in focus

enerlevel · Oct 26, 2011

i have tried to play with the microfocus adjustments... but they dont yeild any difference except for going front focusing..... but from mid to back (right side) , the results seem to be the same even at +20.... however, with my sharpness adjusted to full +7, i am getting some good "out of the camera" sharp images... but i dont think this is how its meant to be ....

Overread · Oct 26, 2011

Remember photography is always 2 part process of capture and process - you will need to process shots from your camera to get the best out of them - ie you will need to adjust things such as sharpness. If you shoot in RAW mode you'll have to do this since the camera editing settings won't be applied at all to the RAW files that come out.

In addition Sharpening depends on the output - different outputs (eg print or to the internet) require different amounts of sharpening to look their best and; in the ideal world; you'd only apply sharpening to the areas that need it not the whole shot (ie you don't need to apply sharpening to blurred background areas and application of sharpening to these areas can even cause problems of artifacts or banding).

mangtarn · Oct 26, 2011

the focus in on the face but there is barely any contrast in the facial area. is there another shot of something with higher contrast and details (a whole bunch of flowers)?

dots · Oct 26, 2011

In-camera JPEG or raw?

mangtarn · Oct 30, 2011

did OP gave up?

enerlevel · Nov 4, 2011

i think i got the fault.... it was the noise reduction.... it was set to standard or low which was why i was getting soft images..... i turned it to off now , and now the results are super sharp.... but there is an increase in noise...
i will take about a week to show you guys the updated pics.. right now too busy working...
thanks all

sajorphoto · Nov 7, 2011

Hey, which lense were you using?

JordanTarrant · Nov 21, 2011

Check your eyes, maybe?

jimbotexas · Dec 2, 2011

I understand your point because I have a 5D and I, too, was disappointed. However, there are a few things to think about and realize.

First, you're shooting upward at F8. Without knowing exactly which lens you used, where the AF point(s) hit or whether the camera was on a tripod, I'm thinking DOF is the main culprit here because the AF point(s) appear to be up higher. One way to fix that is to manually set your AF point and shoot at F16 or beyond. If I want absolutely everything in focus, I usually max out the F-stop for whatever lens I'm using.

Second, your screenshot shows a preview of a JPG. To acheive the best results, shoot RAW and edit RAW. You can then edit with the Canon software (which is free and really not a bad in a pinch) or Adobe Photoshop or, preferably, Adobe Lightroom. You also need to understand that sharpening a JPG is all about approximation. Conversely, a RAW file is NOT a photo but rather the data required to construct the photo. For example, the Canon software can change certain parameters (sharpness, white balance, tint, etc.) in post-processing that would otherwise have to be re-shot to achieve. Lightroom handles RAW files well but I don't believe it does it as well as the actual Canon software for certain parameters.

Third, there has been much discussion regarding the technology of the full-frame 21MP sensor in the 5D and how photons are recognized/recorded. It seems no matter what lens you use, some softness will occur. Remember, however, that the brighter a subject is lit, the better the clarity will be and chiefly due to more photons hitting the sensor. Also note that the sharpest results are realized with a prime lens rather than a telephoto or zoom lens of any sort. Even so, the lens I use most is the EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM. For the shot you present, I might well have used my EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM.

Fourth, your full-size photo wouldn't normally be posted on the web "as is"; it would be downsized to accomodate whatever site (say Facebook, for instance) and therefore gain "sharpness" in the process. If you print the photo, DOF will not likely be noticed below 8x10. That's something to keep in mind when shooting.

That's my two cents.