$8,000 to spend? What would you get?

sactown024 · Oct 30, 2012

fjrabon said:
First you need to decide if you want to go full frame or crop frame. $4K is on the line where its not wise to mess that decision up. I'd say hold on to the $4K until you know the answer to that question.

$4K v. $8K is also a big difference. $4,000 is kind of a worst case scenario for you in the sense that it's enough that it doesn't make sense to spend it on a setup based around your T2i, but it also isn't really enough to build a GREAT new setup, even if you sell all your old gear.

That being said, with $4K and the gear you have, I'd:

1) buy a D7000 or a 7D used (4K isn't really enough to make it worth it to go to full frame) $3,000-$3,250 left
2) buy a Tokina 11-16 f/2.8, Tamron 24-70 f/2.8, and either the canon f/4 IS L or the Nikon 80-200 f/2.8. All used. If you're ever worried about your budget, don't buy new glass. The only people who should buy new glass are the people that see prices and think "yeah, I guess those numbers called 'price' have some sort of relationship to the 7 digit numbers that show up when I log into a bank account." That should leave you with about $1000 left give or take depending on the prices you can find
3) Sell your T2i setup. That should net you around $700-$900 depending on how patient you are. SO we're back up to about $2000.
4) buy a great tripod and a very durable bag. Buy third party speedlights (I like having 2 Metz AF-1 50's). whatever other random accessories you may need. You should be around 1,300
5) Buy a couple of really nice primes for the focal lengths you like most. That 50mm f/1.8 you have is a piece of junk, it will break sooner or later.

I like your list, third party speedlites are good idea.

I think keeping the t2i would be a good backup

sactown024 · Oct 30, 2012

isnt this the 2.8L IS?

http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/buy-sell/304224-sale-canon-ef-70-200-f-2-8-l-usm.html

fjrabon · Oct 30, 2012

sactown024 said:
fjrabon said:

First you need to decide if you want to go full frame or crop frame. $4K is on the line where its not wise to mess that decision up. I'd say hold on to the $4K until you know the answer to that question.

$4K v. $8K is also a big difference. $4,000 is kind of a worst case scenario for you in the sense that it's enough that it doesn't make sense to spend it on a setup based around your T2i, but it also isn't really enough to build a GREAT new setup, even if you sell all your old gear.

That being said, with $4K and the gear you have, I'd:

1) buy a D7000 or a 7D used (4K isn't really enough to make it worth it to go to full frame) $3,000-$3,250 left
2) buy a Tokina 11-16 f/2.8, Tamron 24-70 f/2.8, and either the canon f/4 IS L or the Nikon 80-200 f/2.8. All used. If you're ever worried about your budget, don't buy new glass. The only people who should buy new glass are the people that see prices and think "yeah, I guess those numbers called 'price' have some sort of relationship to the 7 digit numbers that show up when I log into a bank account." That should leave you with about $1000 left give or take depending on the prices you can find
3) Sell your T2i setup. That should net you around $700-$900 depending on how patient you are. SO we're back up to about $2000.
4) buy a great tripod and a very durable bag. Buy third party speedlights (I like having 2 Metz AF-1 50's). whatever other random accessories you may need. You should be around 1,300
5) Buy a couple of really nice primes for the focal lengths you like most. That 50mm f/1.8 you have is a piece of junk, it will break sooner or later.

Click to expand...

I like your list, third party speedlites are good idea.

I think keeping the t2i would be a good backup

Well, it is an okay backup, but you don't need a backup unless you're shooting weddings, given the amount your gear costs in the first place. You also have to consider the list I gave would substantially change if you kept your t2i setup. It also locks you into Canon. WHich may or may not be a good decision, but I wouldn't make it on the basis of keeping your t2i as a backup.

fjrabon · Oct 30, 2012

sactown024 said:
isnt this the 2.8L IS?

http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/buy-sell/304224-sale-canon-ef-70-200-f-2-8-l-usm.html

It's the MkI version. Which is a great lens, but it isn't even close to the MkII.

Tee · Oct 30, 2012

Don't forget editing software and since you're setting up shop (re: website thread) you need cash for that. Seriously man, you're getting too hung up on gear if you're gonna start charging people. You need to put money towards a business foundation.

ronlane · Oct 30, 2012

I would probably look at the following 3 setups.

5D Mk II with 24-105mm kit and the 70-200 f4L @ $3750
6D with 24-105mm kit and the 70-200 f4L @ $4050 (i'd put a little with it)
7D with 18-135mm kit and the 70-200 f2.8L @ 3700

Then probably decide on the 7D set up just because of what I shoot and the fast glass. But that is just me. Thanks for letting me spend $4,000 without getting in trouble from the Spouse.

sactown024 · Oct 30, 2012

I have done one wedding, I liked it, I have another coming up in 2013, not 100% sure i want to advertise as a wedding photographer yet though, need to do a few to make sure i like it/its worth it.

sactown024 · Oct 30, 2012

I have photoshop cs5 and lightroom 4

KmH · Oct 30, 2012

* Thread Moved *

Many think upgrading their gear is the key to better photographs. The key to better photographs is upgrading the photographer's knowledge and skill.

sactown024 · Oct 30, 2012

KmH said:
* Thread Moved *

Many think upgrading their gear is the key to better photographs. The key to better photographs is upgrading the photographer's knowledge and skill.

did you read the thread? I am taking class 2 at C1M

KmH · Oct 30, 2012

Yes. I read the thread. You aren't the only one reading the thread.

TCampbell · Oct 30, 2012

You should spend $100 on a bicycle, keep your current DSLR and then give the remaining $7900 to the consultant who just offered you this excellent advice! ;-)

On a more serious note... if you're thinking of selling one car to buy a less expensive model, then you don't really have $8k to spend on the camera alone... because you still have to buy another car, no?

To do professional photography, there are probably lots of "basics" that you should probably own.

If you're being paid to do an "event" (any type of live event -- weddings just being one example) then you cannot have a do-over day if the camera fails. You need redundant gear. That means a minimum of two camera bodies (the 2nd body doesn't have to be as good as the main body but it must be adequate.) You'd also need two flashes. Actually... two flashes is generally just better anyway and not just to be thought of as a "back up" flash.

A couple of lenses and at least one of them had better be a low focal ratio lens. E.g. a 24-70mm f/2.8 and a 70-200mm f/2.8. A 50mm f/1.4 would be nice.

An incident light meter (preferably one that can also meter for flash and flash contribution.) Tripod & tripod head. Reflectors. Gray card. Shoot-through umbrella (or some other highly portable light modifier that can create nicely diffused light.) An assistant working as a "side-lighter" can easily hand-hold an umbrella and point the remote flash to fire "through" the umbrella, so it's not cumbersome to use on-the-fly.

The body is probably the least important piece of gear. Generally any brand and model "currently" being produced (so we're not talking about 5+ year old models that haven't been sold for a while) will have very good dynamic range, ISO, resolution, etc. Yes you can haggle over which one is fractionally better. I like to point out that when simply changing a lens can alter the light collected by a minimum of 2 stops and possibly 4 stops (4 stops being 16 times as much light), worrying about which body has 5% less noise at ISO 6400 is rather pointless (just use a better lens and dial that ISO right on back to a more reasonable level.)

Overread · Oct 30, 2012

I think you need to talk and think less about gear and first think and talk more about how you use your current gear and what you like doing - what you can't do - what you want to do and what (if any) long term goals you have are. Thus far the only actual use you've mentioned (in passing) is weddings and you've only one under your belt thus far.

Honestly you need to put your criteria on the table first and foremost. Only then can you really make a choice from all the options people will throw at you. Sure you can get some very solid bits of gear (eg the 70-200mm f2.8 IS L MII) but if its not really going to open up new things in the line you want it to then its nice gear, but gear without a direct use for you. You need to get that idea of use first in your mind so that you can choose right - you're at a very good spot where you could decide to go fullframe if it would benefit you.
Plus you've also got a good amount that you could fully sink into a very good lighting setup alone - which could be very much the right choice for you now (or it might not).

So sit down and don't think about gear, think about photography and your goals/ideas/aspirations etc... Get them down then come back to the table to choose gear

sactown024 · Oct 30, 2012

TCampbell said:
You should spend $100 on a bicycle, keep your current DSLR and then give the remaining $7900 to the consultant who just offered you this excellent advice! ;-)

On a more serious note... if you're thinking of selling one car to buy a less expensive model, then you don't really have $8k to spend on the camera alone... because you still have to buy another car, no?

To do professional photography, there are probably lots of "basics" that you should probably own.

If you're being paid to do an "event" (any type of live event -- weddings just being one example) then you cannot have a do-over day if the camera fails. You need redundant gear. That means a minimum of two camera bodies (the 2nd body doesn't have to be as good as the main body but it must be adequate.) You'd also need two flashes. Actually... two flashes is generally just better anyway and not just to be thought of as a "back up" flash.

A couple of lenses and at least one of them had better be a low focal ratio lens. E.g. a 24-70mm f/2.8 and a 70-200mm f/2.8. A 50mm f/1.4 would be nice.

An incident light meter (preferably one that can also meter for flash and flash contribution.) Tripod & tripod head. Reflectors. Gray card. Shoot-through umbrella (or some other highly portable light modifier that can create nicely diffused light.) An assistant working as a "side-lighter" can easily hand-hold an umbrella and point the remote flash to fire "through" the umbrella, so it's not cumbersome to use on-the-fly.

The body is probably the least important piece of gear. Generally any brand and model "currently" being produced (so we're not talking about 5+ year old models that haven't been sold for a while) will have very good dynamic range, ISO, resolution, etc. Yes you can haggle over which one is fractionally better. I like to point out that when simply changing a lens can alter the light collected by a minimum of 2 stops and possibly 4 stops (4 stops being 16 times as much light), worrying about which body has 5% less noise at ISO 6400 is rather pointless (just use a better lens and dial that ISO right on back to a more reasonable level.)