- Joined
- May 1, 2008
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- 25,421
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- UK - England
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- www.deviantart.com
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- Photos OK to edit
What's your budget.
We really need that info as there are a huge range of options and we can get very pricey very easily. Having a rough understanding of how much money you've got to spend is very important so that we can suggest systems and options that will suit your budget; or which you could save for in the near future for something really good.
Rather than suggesting things that might be way under budget (cheap sure; but not as god performance in general) or way over budget.
For what its worth low-light high ISO performance along with fast AF is a must. Even more so if you're on budget (high end lenses that let in a lot of light tend to be expensive). When I've shot showjumping in an arena indoors I've been at around:
1/640sec shutter speed - this is the slowest you can go without getting blur. Go down to 1/500sec and hooves/hair will blur although results are still pleasing for the main body. 1/500 is about the lowest you can go unless you want to do fancy blurry motion things.
- f2.8 aperture - widest you can go and honestly f2 is probably the widest (smaller f number = wider aperture = more light in the camera = less depth of field) you can go with a horse and rider. Horses and riders are deep subjects detail wise so really you can't go super-wide without risking miss focusing very easily.
ISO - has been as high as 12800 (highest my camera can go and rather ugly honestly noise wise)and still been underexposing in dimmer light indoors. So yeah high ISOs are important; outside its not as much of an issue but indoors it certainly is
This is especially the case because most won't let you work flash with horse riding on account of potential risk*
Focal length wise you want 100mm or longer for a horse. A horse is a very deep subject and if you go for a portrait or even full body photo with a lens shorter than 100mm and fil the frame with the subject you run a high risk of perspective distortion because of how close you will be to the subject. This is where you get enlarged aresa closer to the camera compared to areas further away - extreme examples would be those photos you can see (often on cards) where a horse has, for example, a huge nose compared to the rest of its head.
100mm or longer is ideal.
The combo of long focal length and wide maximum aperture make for an expensive combo; however you can work on budget and a 70-300mm lens would do you well outside for certain and in brighter indoor conditions.
*Although it is present at many professional venues so flash is not the devil; but like anything animal related it can be a risk factor to consider and most small venues won't let you use flash at all.
We really need that info as there are a huge range of options and we can get very pricey very easily. Having a rough understanding of how much money you've got to spend is very important so that we can suggest systems and options that will suit your budget; or which you could save for in the near future for something really good.
Rather than suggesting things that might be way under budget (cheap sure; but not as god performance in general) or way over budget.
For what its worth low-light high ISO performance along with fast AF is a must. Even more so if you're on budget (high end lenses that let in a lot of light tend to be expensive). When I've shot showjumping in an arena indoors I've been at around:
1/640sec shutter speed - this is the slowest you can go without getting blur. Go down to 1/500sec and hooves/hair will blur although results are still pleasing for the main body. 1/500 is about the lowest you can go unless you want to do fancy blurry motion things.
- f2.8 aperture - widest you can go and honestly f2 is probably the widest (smaller f number = wider aperture = more light in the camera = less depth of field) you can go with a horse and rider. Horses and riders are deep subjects detail wise so really you can't go super-wide without risking miss focusing very easily.
ISO - has been as high as 12800 (highest my camera can go and rather ugly honestly noise wise)and still been underexposing in dimmer light indoors. So yeah high ISOs are important; outside its not as much of an issue but indoors it certainly is
This is especially the case because most won't let you work flash with horse riding on account of potential risk*
Focal length wise you want 100mm or longer for a horse. A horse is a very deep subject and if you go for a portrait or even full body photo with a lens shorter than 100mm and fil the frame with the subject you run a high risk of perspective distortion because of how close you will be to the subject. This is where you get enlarged aresa closer to the camera compared to areas further away - extreme examples would be those photos you can see (often on cards) where a horse has, for example, a huge nose compared to the rest of its head.
100mm or longer is ideal.
The combo of long focal length and wide maximum aperture make for an expensive combo; however you can work on budget and a 70-300mm lens would do you well outside for certain and in brighter indoor conditions.
*Although it is present at many professional venues so flash is not the devil; but like anything animal related it can be a risk factor to consider and most small venues won't let you use flash at all.
