Auto ISO with manual mode. Am I making a mistake ?

[Photo7360]

Hi All,

I'm using a Nikon d810, and my go-to default setting is to use auto-iso in manual mode. I can quickly change the aperture and shutter speed, which are the most common variables I change when having to quickly pick up my camera and get that moment.

Obviously, the camera then sacrifices the ISO to get a decent exposure. For more planned shots, like astro or landscapes, I'll use manual ISO as well, but it's a luxury I don't always have when the kids decide to do something funny there and then. I'm fortunate to use chunky glass f/2.8 stuff (it's good for the biceps at least ) , so it's not often it takes me past iso 3200 which the camera/lightroom can deal with.

Finally, the question....

I've read in a number of places I should be using either full manual, aperture/shutter priority and I'm really keen to hear of others experience of auto-iso and if I've overlooked something important.

Thanks!

When I first started using digital cameras I tried the Auto ISO. I didn't keep using it very long. I don't like it and don't recommend it.

I shoot in apature priority. I keep my ISO in manual. I set the ISO myself.

I own several digitals. The ones I mainly use are the D3, D3s, D4s and D5. All but the D5 have the ISO setting on the back. You don't have to go through menus to find it so it's very easy and quick to change the ISO when needed. The D5 has the ISO setting up on top of the camera above the shutter release button. It took me a while to get used to it being there but once I did, I realized how even more convenient it was.

The only thing I allow to be auto is the white balance and focus. I shoot in aperture priority. I let the camera do the focus but I do the rest.

 

[Ysarex]

Hi All,

I'm using a Nikon d810, and my go-to default setting is to use auto-iso in manual mode. I can quickly change the aperture and shutter speed, which are the most common variables I change when having to quickly pick up my camera and get that moment.

Obviously, the camera then sacrifices the ISO to get a decent exposure. For more planned shots, like astro or landscapes, I'll use manual ISO as well, but it's a luxury I don't always have when the kids decide to do something funny there and then. I'm fortunate to use chunky glass f/2.8 stuff (it's good for the biceps at least ) , so it's not often it takes me past iso 3200 which the camera/lightroom can deal with.

Finally, the question....

I've read in a number of places I should be using either full manual, aperture/shutter priority and I'm really keen to hear of others experience of auto-iso and if I've overlooked something important.

Thanks!

When I first started using digital cameras I tried the Auto ISO. I didn't keep using it very long. I don't like it and don't recommend it.

I shoot in apature priority. I keep my ISO in manual. I set the ISO myself.

I own several digitals. The ones I mainly use are the D3, D3s, D4s and D5. All but the D5 have the ISO setting on the back. You don't have to go through menus to find it so it's very easy and quick to change the ISO when needed. The D5 has the ISO setting up on top of the camera above the shutter release button. It took me a while to get used to it being there but once I did, I realized how even more convenient it was.

The only thing I allow to be auto is the white balance and focus. I shoot in aperture priority.

If you're using aperture priority then you're also allowing the camera to set the shutter speed automatically.

I let the camera do the focus but I do the rest.

 

[Photo7360]

I agree with the above. That's my preference setting 99% of the time.

My bad, I misread that and meant auto WB. I tend to set the ISO myself to the prevailing light conditions. I rarely use auto ISO.

I do the same. I shoot in aperture priority not manual.

I used to shoot in manual but have gotten older and no longer trust my eyes. LOL. I can't shoot with glasses on. I've tried and it just doesn't work for me. I let the camera do the focus for me now.

 

[Photo7360]

Hi All,

I'm using a Nikon d810, and my go-to default setting is to use auto-iso in manual mode. I can quickly change the aperture and shutter speed, which are the most common variables I change when having to quickly pick up my camera and get that moment.

Obviously, the camera then sacrifices the ISO to get a decent exposure. For more planned shots, like astro or landscapes, I'll use manual ISO as well, but it's a luxury I don't always have when the kids decide to do something funny there and then. I'm fortunate to use chunky glass f/2.8 stuff (it's good for the biceps at least ) , so it's not often it takes me past iso 3200 which the camera/lightroom can deal with.

Finally, the question....

I've read in a number of places I should be using either full manual, aperture/shutter priority and I'm really keen to hear of others experience of auto-iso and if I've overlooked something important.

Thanks!

When I first started using digital cameras I tried the Auto ISO. I didn't keep using it very long. I don't like it and don't recommend it.

I shoot in apature priority. I keep my ISO in manual. I set the ISO myself.

I own several digitals. The ones I mainly use are the D3, D3s, D4s and D5. All but the D5 have the ISO setting on the back. You don't have to go through menus to find it so it's very easy and quick to change the ISO when needed. The D5 has the ISO setting up on top of the camera above the shutter release button. It took me a while to get used to it being there but once I did, I realized how even more convenient it was.

The only thing I allow to be auto is the white balance and focus. I shoot in aperture priority.

If you're using aperture priority then you're also allowing the camera to set the shutter speed automatically.

I let the camera do the focus but I do the rest.

That's true. My bad. Thanks.

 

[Space Face]

I agree with the above. That's my preference setting 99% of the time.

My bad, I misread that and meant auto WB. I tend to set the ISO myself to the prevailing light conditions. I rarely use auto ISO.

I do the same. I shoot in aperture priority not manual.

I used to shoot in manual but have gotten older and no longer trust my eyes. LOL. I can't shoot with glasses on. I've tried and it just doesn't work for me. I let the camera do the focus for me now.

AF still works in Manual mode.

Except on my MF lenses of course.

 

[CherylL]

Odd man out here, I can't stand auto iso. Manual for me!

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

I'm odd person out too. Full manual. I like the external dials and wheels on the Fuji. The Aperture is on the lens. With the Canon not as easy. I just set my ISO, aperture, and starting out shutter speed. Then drag the shutter as needed. I switch the aperture and ISO easily on the Fuji.

 

[snowbear]

When I first started using digital cameras I tried the Auto ISO. I didn't keep using it very long. I don't like it and don't recommend it.

To each, their own. I use it all the time and have never had a problem; never really had a problem with any of the settings, manual or automatic, though manual focus can be a bit challenging with my eyes.

 

[Photo7360]

When I first started using digital cameras I tried the Auto ISO. I didn't keep using it very long. I don't like it and don't recommend it.

To each, their own. I use it all the time and have never had a problem; never really had a problem with any of the settings, manual or automatic, though manual focus can be a bit challenging with my eyes.

The type of photography I specialize in and worked in didn't allow an Auto ISO. The lights just changed way too much and were way too heavy for an Auto ISO. Same with some of the nature shots I take. Specifically waterfalls. I prefer to have my ISO at it's lowest setting possible to silken the water. I usually shoot it with the aperture around 10 to 15.

It just depends on the person using the camera and what they are shooting.

 

[AlanKlein]

If you need consistency in look for a bunch of photos, then you ought to use manual or use an auto mode but freeze the settings after the first shot if your camera has that feature.

 

[AlanKlein]

Also, don't forget white balance. Auto white balance can also throw it off from one picture to the next.

 

[photoflyer]

I frequently use auto ISO but in aperture priority. The ISO sacrifice is becoming less and less with the newer cameras. On the R6 I've had shots that I didn't realize were so high (16000 and 20000 in two cases) until I happened to, later, look at the ExIF info.

I'm sure Nikon is similar in that the minimum speed and max ISO limits can be set.

I'd rather have a little noise and get the speed and DOF I want than to miss the shot. Some shortcomings can be mitigated in post....others cannot.

 

[Ysarex]

I don't get why this is four pages of issue at all. The original OP (thread title) asks about using auto ISO with the camera exposure controls (shutter & f/stop) set manually. If you're setting the exposure manually and really are selecting shutter and f/stop for deliberate reasons then letting the camera set the ISO is simple, straight forward and logical. The camera will select the ISO that the metering system determines is appropriate to render a normal lightness JPEG.* Why would you want any other ISO? With a given exposure, if you select a different ISO than the camera would select you're just making a mistake.** A higher ISO will run the risk of ISO clipping with zero benefit and a lower ISO will produce a too dark JPEG with zero benefit. If you're shooting raw and have a too high ISO (camera won't do that) then you won't be able to fix ISO clipping if it occurs and if you have a too low ISO you'll have to post process to correct the lightness (too dark) and you gain nothing of benefit either way.

The only reason to not use auto ISO is if you really don't intend a specific exposure and plan to re-calc and compromise the exposure -- a different question.

* There is the possibility that you're selecting an exposure that would require an ISO value below the camera's low limit but that's something of an outlier situation.
** Dual impedance sensors have become increasingly common and it's possible someone could fuss over auto ISO selecting an ISO just slightly above or below the channel switch.

 

[Ysarex]

I don't get why this is four pages of issue at all. The original OP (thread title) asks about using auto ISO with the camera exposure controls (shutter & f/stop) set manually. If you're setting the exposure manually and really are selecting shutter and f/stop for deliberate reasons then letting the camera set the ISO is simple, straight forward and logical. The camera will select the ISO that the metering system determines is appropriate to render a normal lightness JPEG.* Why would you want any other ISO? With a given exposure, if you select a different ISO than the camera would select you're just making a mistake.** A higher ISO will run the risk of ISO clipping with zero benefit and a lower ISO will produce a too dark JPEG with zero benefit. If you're shooting raw and have a too high ISO (camera won't do that) then you won't be able to fix ISO clipping if it occurs and if you have a too low ISO you'll have to post process to correct the lightness (too dark) and you gain nothing of benefit either way.

The only reason to not use auto ISO is if you really don't intend a specific exposure and plan to re-calc and compromise the exposure -- a different question.

* There is the possibility that you're selecting an exposure that would require an ISO value below the camera's low limit but that's something of an outlier situation.
** Dual impedance sensors have become increasingly common and it's possible someone could fuss over auto ISO selecting an ISO just slightly above or below the channel switch.

The nikon AE i have actual experience with, D7500, seems to have a tendency to split the difference and go for HIGH ISO levels with low f stop . Even when I go to manual and select f/18 and 1/125, the AE can set the auto ISO 20-40,000 higher then what happens with those manual settings.

I can't make any sense out of what you're saying. The Nikon I have does exactly what would be expected with the ISO set to auto and the camera exposure controls set to manual. It selects the same ISO in auto as would otherwise zero the meter if the ISO was set manually. Which is what my other cameras do as well.

 

[Ysarex]

thats your fault then.

Clearly not. Read your first sentence below.

the camera seems to have preferences to run the exposure meter to 0 or +1. I THINK sartore stated the same thing in his photo class dvd classes. At least he said he runs his preset to -.5 to -1.0 It seems to give better images either way.

But if left to its own devices, many situations the camera seems to ALWAYS choose an ISO level 10-30,000 HIGHER then what happens when i manually set aperture and shutter. EVEN IF I MANUALLY SET THE SAME SHUTTER AND F STOP THE AE DOES.

I don't know what you're trying to describe but this is how auto-ISO used with manual exposure works. That is the topic: auto ISO with exposure set manually.

In the above illustration the camera's exposure mode is set to M. ISO is likewise set manually and I set it to 3200. I set the shutter and f/stop (1/80 sec and f/4) so that the meter would zero at the set ISO of 3200. Note the meter is zeroed. In the next illustration I changed the ISO to auto.

The camera is still set to M. The shutter and f/stop are the same as above -- no exposure change. The meter is still reading zero. The camera is now set to auto ISO and the ISO selected is 3200. 3200 is the same ISO I had set manually a moment ago. It's the same meter controlling the camera either way and it's going to pick the same ISO in auto that brought the meter to zero when the ISO was set manually. My other cameras all work the same way. If yours doesn't this may help: Nikon Service and Repair

 

[ac12]

Like the PSAM modes, Auto ISO is simply another exposure tool.
Sometimes it works and is appropriate, sometimes it does not work and should not be used.
As the photographer, it is your job to use it appropriately.

Example, when I shoot night sports, I shoot in manual, lens wide open, 1/800 sec shutter speed (to stop action).
Then I let auto ISO, adjust the ISO to let me shoot at my chosen aperture and shutter speed.
BUT, when the lighting is difficult (like BLACK background), and the meter cannot handle the difficult lighting conditions, I have to go FULL manual, and lock the ISO, to prevent the camera from messing up the exposure.