Best cameras under 500$ under 1000$ ???

[Village Idiot]

D40 or D90

No, Nikon is crap. Anything that says Canon on it is her best bet. 40D.

 

[fiveoboy01]

D40 or D90

Read the OP's requirements.

She wants an intervalometer, and neither of those cameras has one.

I swear some people just read the thread title and then throw a post out.

 

[Sunnylee]

Yes Thank You. The camera MUST have an intervalometer OR AT LEAST be compatable with one.

 

[Derrel]

I'm going to suggest that craig's idea of looking around for a Canon 5D makes a lot of sense; for people photography, the lens selection you use makes a HUGE impact in how your photographs actually "look". I have a rather lengthy article in my blog on how the DX format impacts people photography both in-studio and on-location.

With a small-sensor DX camera, like a D40 or a Canon Rebel, you are forced into using short focal length lenses indoors,and that causes a number of technical/aesthetic issues to come up in shoot after shoot after shoot. If you have a full-frame camera, then the 85mm and 100mm lenses become your friends, and not frenemies, as when shooting with a DX-format camera.

If you want to shoot SG type shots, the Canon 5D's low ISO options are very handy,and the image quality is good,and the camera is very easy to find used for a very affordable price. The full-frame Canon 5D is a good people camera.

The need for an in-body intervalometer is a tough requirement; you could do the same thing by shooting tethered to a laptop computer,and then have the BEST camera for the job, no matter which camera you select. Shooting tethered might make it easier for you and your subjects, since you're a relative newcomer without a lot of experience. You can swing the computer around so the subject can see each image just a few seconds after the shutter clicks, which you might find will help them with their posing.

The biggest problem with smaller-sensored cameras (APS-C or DX as Nikon calls them) is the huge depth of field you have on all your indoor shots AND the lens selection problems...with a DX camera and an 85mm lens, you have to be 34 feet away in order to shoot a vertical composition that's 8.5 feet high....that means to use a short telephoto, you must have the camera thirty-four feet away with a 40D or 50D or Nikon 40 or D90. With a full-frame body, you can use an 85mm lens and get an 8.5 foot tall frame from only TWENTY feet away. With better background blurring, and a better "rendering".

If you want to be able to manipulate your backgrounds indoors, and in many outdoor locations, you need to shoot a full-frame camera. If you want the deep depth of field, "everything-in-the-background-is-in-focus-too" look,then by all means, use a DX format d-slr.

 

[Sunnylee]

Ok I did alot of research and I have basicly narrowed it down to three choices. Keep in mind these are the cameras that seem the best FOR ME.

1. Canon powershot S1, S2, or S3.
Pros- Built in intervalometer, simplest to use(I like the idea of not having to buy seprerate lenses), and the cheapest.
Cons- The intervalometer cannot be set any faster then at 1 minute intervals.

2. Canon D30, D60, or D10.
Pros- Compatable with a remote that has THE BEST intervalometer, intervals can be as low as 1 second. Plus it does all kinds of other stuff.
Cons- A little more exspensive and I would have to buy(and learn how to use) seperate lenses. Plus Remote is like 100 bucks.

3. Nikon D40, D40x, D60, D80, or D90
Pros- Can get a cheap 15 dollar wireless remote to go with it.
cons- The most exspensive, seperate lenses, and remote does not have intervalometer(but it would still be good enough for what I need)


The powershot is almost perfect!!! But a minute is too long for what I want it for that it becomes pointless, I can reset my cameras timer faster then that. I think I will go for one of the canon D 30, 60, or 10.

 

[Don Kondra]

Have you looked at Olympus?

The E-520 with a 14-42mm kit lens is ~$500. I believe the E-510 is still available for less...

A wireless ebay remote is ~$35. You can set the camera for a 2 or 12 second delay, that will give you time to "hide" the remote I wouldn't recommend the Oly IR remote, it will only work from in front of the camera.

Cheers, Don

 

[dhilberg]

You can get an aftermarket intervalometer for the D80 and D90. I have the Satechi TR-G for my D80. The TR-M is for the D90. It also doubles as a remote shutter release cable. I have the wireless Nikon remote (ML-L3) and it doesn't work very well.

They also have intervalometers for the Canon Rebel line. A lot cheaper than 100 bucks too.

Satechi :: Camera Accessories- Wireless Shutters, Remote Timer Shutters, Battery Grips, Canon, Nikon, Panasonic, Olympus, Minolta, Battery Grips

You can buy them all off Amazon.com. Just search for "Satechi TR"

 

[Dominantly]

holy crap.
That link is awesome.

Oh and D5000.

 

[Derrel]

Your Canon choices are very out of date; the D30 is an old 3MP body that "started it all" for Canon,and the follow-up model was the Canon D60 which could barely focus in many indoor situations and was made for only about six months, and to correct the horrible focusing system, Canon introduced the 10D. Maybe you're on a budget, but I would never willingly select a D30 or a Canon D60 or a Canon 10D in the year 2009--all of those cameras are easily beaten by the newer Nikon's D40-D60-D80-D90.

And a point and shoot digital for SG work? Sorry, but the built in lens issue is one you need to overcome. No offense, but the 'research' you have been doing has been turning up some very poor solutions for both lighting and cameras,and it seems that you're resisting all the actual, good,solid,experienced advice you've been given by avtual,real people who know how to shoot, in favor of some type of on-line research where one easily-added feature (intervalometer) is overriding your choice of a better camera in favor of a point and shoot,and your fear of flash has overriden all the benefits and ease of monolight flash units.

One of the biggest problems beginners have is that they don't "know" what they really need, and they start looking for "features" and start spending hours doing on-line research where criteria are entered,and a computer spits out information, so I'll give you a bit of advice: go to an actual photography store and look at some cameras. Handle them. Snap a few photos. Compare actual, real cameras,and ask the sales person to show you each camera with both the "kit lens" and with the a better-quality lens or two. Right now, your research program is turning up a lot of dead-end choices.
You need some actual experience to make good,solid choices, and when those of us with actual experience try to give you advice on lighting, you disregard that advice and buy a fluorescent shop light...

 

[DScience]

D40 or D90

Read the OP's requirements.

She wants an intervalometer, and neither of those cameras has one.

I swear some people just read the thread title and then throw a post out.

You are a moron. You bash my post, now the OP is considering getting a D40 or D90.

Also, why didn't you correct Sw1tchFX who was the first responder, who ALSO recommended the D40.

And who is the one "throwing a post out". At least I somewhat answered the OP's question, what's the best camera for under $500 or $1000. What did you offer? :thumbdown:

Also, the D90 like other have said, has the ability to use a intervalometer.

 

[Sunnylee]

Your Canon choices are very out of date; the D30 is an old 3MP body that "started it all" for Canon,and the follow-up model was the Canon D60 which could barely focus in many indoor situations and was made for only about six months, and to correct the horrible focusing system, Canon introduced the 10D. Maybe you're on a budget, but I would never willingly select a D30 or a Canon D60 or a Canon 10D in the year 2009--all of those cameras are easily beaten by the newer Nikon's D40-D60-D80-D90.

And a point and shoot digital for SG work? Sorry, but the built in lens issue is one you need to overcome. No offense, but the 'research' you have been doing has been turning up some very poor solutions for both lighting and cameras,and it seems that you're resisting all the actual, good,solid,experienced advice you've been given by avtual,real people who know how to shoot, in favor of some type of on-line research where one easily-added feature (intervalometer) is overriding your choice of a better camera in favor of a point and shoot,and your fear of flash has overriden all the benefits and ease of monolight flash units.

One of the biggest problems beginners have is that they don't "know" what they really need, and they start looking for "features" and start spending hours doing on-line research where criteria are entered,and a computer spits out information, so I'll give you a bit of advice: go to an actual photography store and look at some cameras. Handle them. Snap a few photos. Compare actual, real cameras,and ask the sales person to show you each camera with both the "kit lens" and with the a better-quality lens or two. Right now, your research program is turning up a lot of dead-end choices.
You need some actual experience to make good,solid choices, and when those of us with actual experience try to give you advice on lighting, you disregard that advice and buy a fluorescent shop light...

Take it easy Derrel. I have not disregarded your advice, ya I bought some shop lights, but I also plan on buying real ones, I can afford 20 bucks to satisfy curiosity.
You are right though, I have no ****ing clue about cameras, and I am very appreciative for the expertise, in fact you saved me from spending $290 on an old Canon D30, an old lense, and an intervalometer. Not alot of money for all of that but if it's as crappy as you say then I can wait. I know I am stuck on the intervalometer, and I've come to terms with flashes, I think I can handle it if it is off camera, but seriously it's like a medical issue with me, bright lights can be VERY uncomfortable, I'm like a god damn vampire. I start to hiss when I go out in the sun.
Please keep in mind that I do plan on working with a professional photographer when I am ready to apply for suicide girls. And I bet I could shoot a very good set with my $300 Kodak, it would just take forever. So I am really just looking for an upgrade and to save time. The fun of taking photos get sucked away fast when you have to set a timer.
I can't really spend $1000, that was just curiosity. I should have said best cameras under $300 or under $500.
Anyways, thanks for taking the time to point me in the right direction. I promise once I get some photos I'll share and even let you guys edit them if you want (except for the naughty ones haha)

 

[Sunnylee]

holy crap.
That link is awesome.

That link IS Awesome

 

[Dominantly]

holy crap.
That link is awesome.

That link IS Awesome

And you WANT to be featured? Wow, awesome.

Let me know if you need help with the photo editing.

Oh and you live in the wrong state if you're no fan of sunlight. Washington is where you want to be, I feel like a GD Vampire sometimes.

 

[Plato]

D40 or D90

No, Nikon is crap. Anything that says Canon on it is her best bet. 40D.

Your screen name makes sense.

 

[Dominantly]

agreed.