BSOD

[The_Traveler]

Sorry to have been absent from this for days; life has interfered with thinking.
The BSOD has happened very, very soon after boot up - and always happens early on in session.
I have run memtest for 3 hours with no errors found.
In last couple of BSOD, a week or so apart, the dump didn't get collected but the previous ones, a couple of months ago, named different issues.
Since this has persisted through installation of SSD and Win10, it seems to make sense that it's a hardware issue not a disk issue.
Dowloaded HW monitor and cores seem within normal range and stable

I will install the PS when it arrives.
Thanks for questions and comments

 

[jcdeboever]

Sorry to have been absent from this for days; life has interfered with thinking.
The BSOD has happened very, very soon after boot up - and always happens early on in session.
I have run memtest for 3 hours with no errors found.
In last couple of BSOD, a week or so apart, the dump didn't get collected but the previous ones, a couple of months ago, named different issues.
Since this has persisted through installation of SSD and Win10, it seems to make sense that it's a hardware issue not a disk issue.
Dowloaded HW monitor and cores seem within normal range and stable

View attachment 118217

I will install the PS when it arrives.
Thanks for questions and comments

Temps and voltages appear fine. What is the make and model of your current power supply. What make and model video card?

Did it BSOD prior to SSD installation? What make and model is that?

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[The_Traveler]

Don't have time to open it now but I think PS is 460 Watt cooler master RS-460-PSAR-J3

Graphic board is NVIDIA GeForce GT 740
Samsung SSD 840 Evo 250 GB

yes, BSOD only in last 6-8 months

PC was built in March 2010

 

[The_Traveler]

And new PS is

CORSAIR RMx RM650X 650W ATX12V / EPS12V 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Nvidia Sli ready and crossfire support Power Supply

 

[jcdeboever]

Don't have time to open it now but I think PS is 460 Watt cooler master RS-460-PSAR-J3

Graphic board is NVIDIA GeForce GT 740
Samsung SSD 840 Evo 250 GB

yes, BSOD only in last 6-8 months

PC was built in March 2010

So the PC is properly specked for the PS wattage but zero tolerance. It really is a relabeled elite 400 watt unit, they throw in bridge and call it 460w. It is a poor quality unit and I have seen a fair amount of them fail and take boards with them. They are not the worst but very popular PS based on price, if I recall correctly, FSP makes that unit for CM. Costs the shop about $12 to $15. I personally would never put one of those in a build for stability reasons. That video card is not power hungry at all, entry level card. You already got one coming and hopefully you didn't get another value branded PS. Rosewill Capstone series PS are made by Super Flower and are excellent quality while reasonably priced. Only their Capstone Series.... They make several series and most are junk but not the Capstone's.

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[jcdeboever]

And new PS is

CORSAIR RMx RM650X 650W ATX12V / EPS12V 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Nvidia Sli ready and crossfire support Power Supply

That is a quality unit. Good choice. Way more than you need but you can put pretty much any video card in it that you want.

Hopefully they didn't use a MSI motherboard, they don't take on cheap PS very well. Poor VRM on those boards.

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[The_Traveler]

Mobo GigaByte GA-P55M-UD2
Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro Rev .2 92 mm. CPU Fan, heat sink.

Except for the occasional BSOD not a problem.
Love SSD.
Built by small shop that I've been buying from for 12 years.
No need to update, fast enough for me.

 

[jcdeboever]

Mobo GigaByte GA-P55M-UD2
Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro Rev .2 92 mm. CPU Fan, heat sink.

Except for the occasional BSOD not a problem.
Love SSD.
Built by small shop that I've been buying from for 12 years.
No need to update, fast enough for me.

Solid little motherboard. I built several with that board. One of the few mATX boards with 4 ram slots in 2009. Not a good board for over-clocking, you should avoid that, no MOSFET cooler... Mainly used SuperMicro boards but in budget builds, Gigabyte was preferred because their VRM design was similar to SM. All high end solid capacitors.

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[The_Traveler]

Solid little motherboard. I built several with that board. One of the few mATX boards with 4 ram slots in 2009. Not a good board for over-clocking, you should avoid that, no MOSFET cooler... Mainly used SuperMicro boards but in budget builds, Gigabyte was preferred because their VRM design was similar to SM. All high end solid capacitors.

Thanks.
Understood everything up to the first period.

The new PS came today.
Very impressive and clearly a big step above existing.
The modular cables will make the inside of my PC much neater than the rat's nest that it is now.
I will make pictures of existing cabling to enable plugging everything back in so it does run.

 

[jcdeboever]

Solid little motherboard. I built several with that board. One of the few mATX boards with 4 ram slots in 2009. Not a good board for over-clocking, you should avoid that, no MOSFET cooler... Mainly used SuperMicro boards but in budget builds, Gigabyte was preferred because their VRM design was similar to SM. All high end solid capacitors.

Thanks.
Understood everything up to the first period.

The new PS came today.
Very impressive and clearly a big step above existing.
The modular cables will make the inside of my PC much neater than the rat's nest that it is now.
I will make pictures of existing cabling to enable plugging everything back in so it does run.

Now you know how I feel with photography talk... [emoji6]

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[The_Traveler]

I am a bit concerned about making certain everything is plugged in correctly.
My current PS has a bunch of extra leads and they are making a real rats nest and with them in place, it's difficult to understand what is actually going on.
I'm pretty certain that they engineers have managed all the uncertainty out of it but I think I'll cut all the attached wires at the old PS and then spend a bit of time matching up the modular plugs to their eventual destinations.
Unless there is an easier stupid-safe way.

FYI, the CORSAIR RMx RM650X came very well packed and in a cloth case and all the cables are in their own case, neatly tied up. The power cord is a good length and thick and there is a package of cable ties to neat up everything aftterwards.

Sunday morning is my target day to install this. (Note symbology of Easter Sunday for installing a new power supply.)

Is there a way to check that its not DOA before I rip out the other one?

 

[jcdeboever]

I am a bit concerned about making certain everything is plugged in correctly.
My current PS has a bunch of extra leads and they are making a real rats nest and with them in place, it's difficult to understand what is actually going on.
I'm pretty certain that they engineers have managed all the uncertainty out of it but I think I'll cut all the attached wires at the old PS and then spend a bit of time matching up the modular plugs to their eventual destinations.
Unless there is an easier stupid-safe way.

FYI, the CORSAIR RMx RM650X came very well packed and in a cloth case and all the cables are in their own case, neatly tied up. The power cord is a good length and thick and there is a package of cable ties to neat up everything aftterwards.

Sunday morning is my target day to install this. (Note symbology of Easter Sunday for installing a new power supply.)

Is there a way to check that its not DOA before I rip out the other one?

Yes, if your a builder. You are not so I will not go into that. Please note the light yellow highlights for reference.

After backing up your hard drive, and taking pictures of cable connections.... unplug all the sata (hard drives and dvd /cd) connections. These are your drives so pay attention to what port they are plugged into prior to PS installation. They are marked numerically on board if you look hard enough, make notes.

View attachment 118280

Simply unplug the 20 + 4 pin connector from the motherboard and note it is really tight to get off but do not be afraid to squeeze and pull forcefully.
Squeeze hard!



Then pull the 8 pin connector, same squeeze applies but not as hard.



Install PS or simply lay down in a manageable location , plug in, and turn on to get to prompt. If it gets to prompt alerting you to no hard drive or operating system present, then power supply is good. Turn off and plug everything in as pictured from reference and your good to go.

For reference, the 20 + 4 pin sends current to the components on the motherboard outside of the CPU.

The 8 pin powers the CPU. I went on in rough detail about overclocking because these companies market this feature but in reality, most will never use it. To cut cost, they will eliminate a mosfet cooler to keep the cost in line. I know you are aloof to the terminology but it is important to know that as you were overclocking and it was the cause of your problem. This is not a motherboard designed for overclocking because no ample cooling solutions are offered in the box, it is an add on item.

 

[The_Traveler]

thanks, I'll keep this on my iPad.
(first attachment isn't showing)

Simply unplug the 20 + 4 pin connector from the motherboard

Then pull the 8 pin connector,

I assume this are cables from PS

 

[jcdeboever]

thanks, I'll keep this on my iPad.
(first attachment isn't showing)

Simply unplug the 20 + 4 pin connector from the motherboard

Then pull the 8 pin connector,

I assume this are cables from PS

Cable from Power supply on the two pics, YES.

Pics from drives are located here.

 

[jcdeboever]

Drives do not need to be attached to check power supply function. In reality, it is a sound troubleshooting function to plug things in at one at a time.