Camera recommendation

[LastingImpressions63]

I am at the research stages of getting in to photography and am at a loss of knowing where to begin as far as equipment to invest in. I see myself photographing mostly Nature/Wildlife, Landscapes, People, Events. Curious of mirrorless vs DSLR. Specific brands and specific equipment one might recommend to get started for a less than rookie yet not outgrow the equipment too soon would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

 

[JoeW]

Hi and welcome.

OK, let me start out with a couple of general comments.

1. What type of phone do you currently have and do you use it much for photography? Are you on IG a lot?
2. When you say "wildlife" are you talking about "birds in my backyard/the cute squirrel on my front tree" or "I'm thinking of taking a safari to Africa and in the meantime I want to get a good picture of a Bald Eagle in nature"?
3. Any thoughts about what you initially want to spend?

Now let me offer a couple of general overviews. There are a ton of camera options out there. It can be bewildering to a newcomer. Don't let it discourage you. And starting out--a lot of your photos will be dreck. And that's OK. The great French photographer Cartier-Bresson once said "your first 10,000 photos will be your worst." The point is not that you'll suck at this for 2 years. It's that an important way to getting better is to start shooting, learn from your experience and keep shooting. Don't wait for the perfect moment to click the shutter. Don't wait for the perfect photo to post results and ask for feedback.

Also, people have biases. You'll get people who will argue vehemently that the model of camera they have is the best (because that's what they know and of course, why would they choose something inferior?). So don't be put off by that. The best camera is the one you have with you. And the person behind the camera matters more than the camera itself when it comes to the quality of the picture.

Mirrorless is the future of photography. It's lighter and has several advantages. That said, I recommend you get a used, inexpensive DSLR kit (a body and a lens). You can probably do that for $200-$400. And you learn on that. Then you'll be able to make much more intelligent decisions. Because if you want to shoot birds in Africa, you'll want a 600mm lens. If you want to shoot on long distance hikes you'll probably want a camera that is weather-proofed and as light as possible.

A specific make, body, and lens I'd recommend would be a used Nikon D3500 DSLR with a 35mm f2.8 lens, battery, and SD card. That will be great for shooting people (especially indoors) and landscapes, and wildlife that is close. It will be dirt cheap ($200-400 depending upon how used it is). And you will learn enough about photography and cameras to then be able to say "here are the specifics I want" and to be able to evaluate and compare a range of higher-range cameras and choose with an informed mind.

Also, depending upon how you learn (books, classes, videos) I'd invest in some type of instruction. That will speed up your learning curve. Your camera will initially be less frustrating. If it's an in-person class with others, you'll see other cameras and learn their capabilities (which will also help you make choices in the future).

I know this may sound frustrating. But think of it this way. You're 16, just got your driver's license, your parents say they'll buy you a car and you ask "which car do I want to own as an adult, maybe a parent, and own for the next 15 years"--hah! You don't have that level of insight as a new 16 year-old drive. Ditto with someone starting out in photography. View your first camera as a tool to help you become a competent photographer which will then allow you to decide what you want in a camera and what is just 'meh' for you.

All the best to you and welcome to TPF.

 

[Jeff15]

I would recommend at first buying a decent bridge camera, I have a Sony RX10 m4 but there are cheaper alternatives.

 

[LastingImpressions63]

Hi and welcome.

OK, let me start out with a couple of general comments.

1. What type of phone do you currently have and do you use it much for photography? Are you on IG a lot?
2. When you say "wildlife" are you talking about "birds in my backyard/the cute squirrel on my front tree" or "I'm thinking of taking a safari to Africa and in the meantime I want to get a good picture of a Bald Eagle in nature"?
3. Any thoughts about what you initially want to spend?

Now let me offer a couple of general overviews. There are a ton of camera options out there. It can be bewildering to a newcomer. Don't let it discourage you. And starting out--a lot of your photos will be dreck. And that's OK. The great French photographer Cartier-Bresson once said "your first 10,000 photos will be your worst." The point is not that you'll suck at this for 2 years. It's that an important way to getting better is to start shooting, learn from your experience and keep shooting. Don't wait for the perfect moment to click the shutter. Don't wait for the perfect photo to post results and ask for feedback.

Also, people have biases. You'll get people who will argue vehemently that the model of camera they have is the best (because that's what they know and of course, why would they choose something inferior?). So don't be put off by that. The best camera is the one you have with you. And the person behind the camera matters more than the camera itself when it comes to the quality of the picture.

Mirrorless is the future of photography. It's lighter and has several advantages. That said, I recommend you get a used, inexpensive DSLR kit (a body and a lens). You can probably do that for $200-$400. And you learn on that. Then you'll be able to make much more intelligent decisions. Because if you want to shoot birds in Africa, you'll want a 600mm lens. If you want to shoot on long distance hikes you'll probably want a camera that is weather-proofed and as light as possible.

A specific make, body, and lens I'd recommend would be a used Nikon D3500 DSLR with a 35mm f2.8 lens, battery, and SD card. That will be great for shooting people (especially indoors) and landscapes, and wildlife that is close. It will be dirt cheap ($200-400 depending upon how used it is). And you will learn enough about photography and cameras to then be able to say "here are the specifics I want" and to be able to evaluate and compare a range of higher-range cameras and choose with an informed mind.

Also, depending upon how you learn (books, classes, videos) I'd invest in some type of instruction. That will speed up your learning curve. Your camera will initially be less frustrating. If it's an in-person class with others, you'll see other cameras and learn their capabilities (which will also help you make choices in the future).

I know this may sound frustrating. But think of it this way. You're 16, just got your driver's license, your parents say they'll buy you a car and you ask "which car do I want to own as an adult, maybe a parent, and own for the next 15 years"--hah! You don't have that level of insight as a new 16 year-old drive. Ditto with someone starting out in photography. View your first camera as a tool to help you become a competent photographer which will then allow you to decide what you want in a camera and what is just 'meh' for you.

All the best to you and welcome to TPF.

Hi and welcome.

OK, let me start out with a couple of general comments.

1. What type of phone do you currently have and do you use it much for photography? Are you on IG a lot?
2. When you say "wildlife" are you talking about "birds in my backyard/the cute squirrel on my front tree" or "I'm thinking of taking a safari to Africa and in the meantime I want to get a good picture of a Bald Eagle in nature"?
3. Any thoughts about what you initially want to spend?

Now let me offer a couple of general overviews. There are a ton of camera options out there. It can be bewildering to a newcomer. Don't let it discourage you. And starting out--a lot of your photos will be dreck. And that's OK. The great French photographer Cartier-Bresson once said "your first 10,000 photos will be your worst." The point is not that you'll suck at this for 2 years. It's that an important way to getting better is to start shooting, learn from your experience and keep shooting. Don't wait for the perfect moment to click the shutter. Don't wait for the perfect photo to post results and ask for feedback.

Also, people have biases. You'll get people who will argue vehemently that the model of camera they have is the best (because that's what they know and of course, why would they choose something inferior?). So don't be put off by that. The best camera is the one you have with you. And the person behind the camera matters more than the camera itself when it comes to the quality of the picture.

Mirrorless is the future of photography. It's lighter and has several advantages. That said, I recommend you get a used, inexpensive DSLR kit (a body and a lens). You can probably do that for $200-$400. And you learn on that. Then you'll be able to make much more intelligent decisions. Because if you want to shoot birds in Africa, you'll want a 600mm lens. If you want to shoot on long distance hikes you'll probably want a camera that is weather-proofed and as light as possible.

A specific make, body, and lens I'd recommend would be a used Nikon D3500 DSLR with a 35mm f2.8 lens, battery, and SD card. That will be great for shooting people (especially indoors) and landscapes, and wildlife that is close. It will be dirt cheap ($200-400 depending upon how used it is). And you will learn enough about photography and cameras to then be able to say "here are the specifics I want" and to be able to evaluate and compare a range of higher-range cameras and choose with an informed mind.

Also, depending upon how you learn (books, classes, videos) I'd invest in some type of instruction. That will speed up your learning curve. Your camera will initially be less frustrating. If it's an in-person class with others, you'll see other cameras and learn their capabilities (which will also help you make choices in the future).

I know this may sound frustrating. But think of it this way. You're 16, just got your driver's license, your parents say they'll buy you a car and you ask "which car do I want to own as an adult, maybe a parent, and own for the next 15 years"--hah! You don't have that level of insight as a new 16 year-old drive. Ditto with someone starting out in photography. View your first camera as a tool to help you become a competent photographer which will then allow you to decide what you want in a camera and what is just 'meh' for you.

All the best to you and welcome to TPF.

First and foremost, I want to say thank you for the detailed response. Such great information and advice! It was much more than I expected and is greatly appreciated!

I have an iPhone. I do use it for taking pics but I figured that would change once I get a halfway decent camera. I am not currently on IG much, I have an account but currently only on occasionally.

Wildlife- yes birds etc in my backyard but more so birds, deer and other critters when on hikes or out on ventures. African Safari would be amazing just not in the budget currently

It would be nice to stay below $1,000 but would be willing to spend a little more, prefer at least initially to not go over about $1,500.

Thank you again!

 

[LastingImpressions63]

I would recommend at first buying a decent bridge camera, I have a Sony RX10 m4 but there are cheaper alternatives.

Thank you! I will take a look at your recommendation. Much appreciated!

 

[JoeW]

OK, thanks for the quick response. Let me explained why I asked what I did and what your answers told me.

1. An iPhone is a remarkably good camera--even an old one--because it's almost always available. And the best camera is the one you have handy. That said, an iPhone isn't very good for low-light photography, composing the picture (by changing depth of field, zooming in), long distance wildlife photography.

2. Not on IG--that's actually good. People who live on IG tend to find their phone ends up being their best camera (because it's so easy to shift phone photos to your IG account). Since you've got an iPhone, I bet you have either an iPad or a Mac computer or laptop. That means you have Photos--which is a decide program for both basic edits and also storage of your photos.

3. Keep it under $1,000. A bridge camera is a good possibility here. The pros of a bridge camera--you can get a decent one for under $1,000. If you get the right one, the zoom lens will be long enough to shoot some wildlife. Plus, it's all in one--the lens is usually part of the camera.

The cons of most bridge cameras is that they're bridge cameras. You can't put on a better lens (and most superzoom lens will be fuzzy at each end and not especially sharp overall). If you wanted to shoot Bald Eagles, you can't put put on a 300 or 400mm lens. If you want to shoot your niece playing indoor basketball in bad light you can't swap out the lens for one that is better in low light. If you want to shoot some trick photography (like water droplets) you can't put on a lens with a faster shutter speed capability. It's definitely a step above a point and shoot--it's absolutely a "bridge" that will allow you to take better pictures. But it will have a lot of limits. And when you upgrade (and you will--once you decide what you want to shoot), your bridge won't be useful for you. If you buy a Nikon DSLR and later go Nikon mirrorless, you can use your Nikon DSLR lens (with an adapter) on your Nikon mirrorless.

So to me (and this is just my perspective), a bridge camera isn't so much about you getting substantially better pictures (you will get better pictures than with your phone). A bridge camera will help you learn some of the stuff that you'll need to know for the next camera you buy (shutter speed, aperture, white balance, etc.). Given that, you may decide a bridge camera is perfect for you. Or you may decide to get a used DSLR with more capability. Only you can decide what is the best fit for you.

Good luck!

 

[cgw]

Look at lightly used discontinued Nikon DX DSLRs like the D5600 and a used 35/1.8G. KEH does this kit for around $500-600. It's the 2024 digital version of the classic mid-range "starter" film SLR+50/1.8 kit that sold in the millions for decades. Learn the ropes with it. Move on to other lenses when/if you need them. Sell it if you find photography boring/overwhelming. Consider the cost as "tuition." Move ahead or drop out. That's up to you.

 

[Don Fischer]

Hi and welcome.

OK, let me start out with a couple of general comments.

1. What type of phone do you currently have and do you use it much for photography? Are you on IG a lot?
2. When you say "wildlife" are you talking about "birds in my backyard/the cute squirrel on my front tree" or "I'm thinking of taking a safari to Africa and in the meantime I want to get a good picture of a Bald Eagle in nature"?
3. Any thoughts about what you initially want to spend?

Now let me offer a couple of general overviews. There are a ton of camera options out there. It can be bewildering to a newcomer. Don't let it discourage you. And starting out--a lot of your photos will be dreck. And that's OK. The great French photographer Cartier-Bresson once said "your first 10,000 photos will be your worst." The point is not that you'll suck at this for 2 years. It's that an important way to getting better is to start shooting, learn from your experience and keep shooting. Don't wait for the perfect moment to click the shutter. Don't wait for the perfect photo to post results and ask for feedback.

Also, people have biases. You'll get people who will argue vehemently that the model of camera they have is the best (because that's what they know and of course, why would they choose something inferior?). So don't be put off by that. The best camera is the one you have with you. And the person behind the camera matters more than the camera itself when it comes to the quality of the picture.

Mirrorless is the future of photography. It's lighter and has several advantages. That said, I recommend you get a used, inexpensive DSLR kit (a body and a lens). You can probably do that for $200-$400. And you learn on that. Then you'll be able to make much more intelligent decisions. Because if you want to shoot birds in Africa, you'll want a 600mm lens. If you want to shoot on long distance hikes you'll probably want a camera that is weather-proofed and as light as possible.

A specific make, body, and lens I'd recommend would be a used Nikon D3500 DSLR with a 35mm f2.8 lens, battery, and SD card. That will be great for shooting people (especially indoors) and landscapes, and wildlife that is close. It will be dirt cheap ($200-400 depending upon how used it is). And you will learn enough about photography and cameras to then be able to say "here are the specifics I want" and to be able to evaluate and compare a range of higher-range cameras and choose with an informed mind.

Also, depending upon how you learn (books, classes, videos) I'd invest in some type of instruction. That will speed up your learning curve. Your camera will initially be less frustrating. If it's an in-person class with others, you'll see other cameras and learn their capabilities (which will also help you make choices in the future).

I know this may sound frustrating. But think of it this way. You're 16, just got your driver's license, your parents say they'll buy you a car and you ask "which car do I want to own as an adult, maybe a parent, and own for the next 15 years"--hah! You don't have that level of insight as a new 16 year-old drive. Ditto with someone starting out in photography. View your first camera as a tool to help you become a competent photographer which will then allow you to decide what you want in a camera and what is just 'meh' for you.

All the best to you and welcome to TPF.

This to me is almost perfect. But I wouldn't go with a 35mm lens right off. Rather I'd spend some extra money on a couple of zoom lense's. I have an 18-200 on my camera that is my most used lens. Also have a 55-300 that allows me a bit more reach. Had an 18-140 at one time and the 18-200 just gave me a bit more. Also I can really get into after market lenses, I have sigma and Tamron now and may not be as good as name brand but their better than I am and lower price. I think I met a guy with the same camera as I have, Nikon D7000, and he had an 18-400 I think it was. Seems to me the wider you stretch the focal length the harder it is to shoot well. If you wanted to get going with birds, learn to shoot from a blind and bait the birds. I went with A SIGMA 170-500 for that and baited. found I could actually do better with the 55-300 hand shooting, just more stable. Ended up having to buy a tripod for the long lens. Works fine but added cost for the lens and the tripod. More expensive lenses can come down the line when you figure out what you want to do most.

I'm onto old homesteads, animals and bird dogs working. 18-200 get about 90% of the use. 55-300 and 150-500 the last 10%. Depends on how close you get to your subject's. If what I shot was street photo's I'd go back to the 18-140 or even the 18-105. They will both give me a bit more without changing lenses! I'm not big on single length lenses, to frame a photo right you find yourself moving your feet a whole lot more. good zoom eliminates that and as I mentioned, I think, after market zoom's mostly work better than the photographer and cost less. Early on what ever value there is in more expensive lenses will be wasted on your lack of experience.

One more thing you should invest in is a flash unit for the camera. Lot of people go for wider aperture lenses to gather more light but I read years ago, if you need more light, get and flash and add the light yourself! I have two flashes and if I need more light, I suspect it usually works better than a really slow lens. Slow wide lens you'll find drags you back to a tripod to many times.

 

[cgw]

This to me is almost perfect. But I wouldn't go with a 35mm lens right off. Rather I'd spend some extra money on a couple of zoom lense's. I have an 18-200 on my camera that is my most used lens. Also have a 55-300 that allows me a bit more reach. Had an 18-140 at one time and the 18-200 just gave me a bit more. Also I can really get into after market lenses, I have sigma and Tamron now and may not be as good as name brand but their better than I am and lower price. I think I met a guy with the same camera as I have, Nikon D7000, and he had an 18-400 I think it was. Seems to me the wider you stretch the focal length the harder it is to shoot well. If you wanted to get going with birds, learn to shoot from a blind and bait the birds. I went with A SIGMA 170-500 for that and baited. found I could actually do better with the 55-300 hand shooting, just more stable. Ended up having to buy a tripod for the long lens. Works fine but added cost for the lens and the tripod. More expensive lenses can come down the line when you figure out what you want to do most.

I'm onto old homesteads, animals and bird dogs working. 18-200 get about 90% of the use. 55-300 and 150-500 the last 10%. Depends on how close you get to your subject's. If what I shot was street photo's I'd go back to the 18-140 or even the 18-105. They will both give me a bit more without changing lenses! I'm not big on single length lenses, to frame a photo right you find yourself moving your feet a whole lot more. good zoom eliminates that and as I mentioned, I think, after market zoom's mostly work better than the photographer and cost less. Early on what ever value there is in more expensive lenses will be wasted on your lack of experience.

One more thing you should invest in is a flash unit for the camera. Lot of people go for wider aperture lenses to gather more light but I read years ago, if you need more light, get and flash and add the light yourself! I have two flashes and if I need more light, I suspect it usually works better than a really slow lens. Slow wide lens you'll find drags you back to a tripod to many times.

35/1.8G on a DX Nikon=50mm. Slow variable aperture zooms you mention usually require support at the long end. Besides they're hardly optimal for street shooting. Think the OP needs to do some investigation on their own instead of inviting shot-in-the-dark replies to vague questions. Research?

 

[smoke665]

I'll mention a couple points that's been skipped over.

Ergonomics - if you're one of the lucky few with a camera store nearby great, if not try the limited selections at big box stores like Best Buy, Wally World, etc. Not all camera bodies are created equally - size, weight, layout - go somewhere you can actually pick up and hold one.

Weather Proofing - You mentioned hiking, outdoor photography. Not all cameras are equal when it comes to preventing moisture intrusion.

 

[Don Fischer]

Shot in the dark h

35/1.8G on a DX Nikon=50mm. Slow variable aperture zooms you mention usually require support at the long end. Besides they're hardly optimal for street shooting. Think the OP needs to do some investigation on their own instead of inviting shot-in-the-dark replies to vague questions. Research?

Shot in the dark huh? I'm not all that good and don't understand a lot of this stuff but I've been shooting since about 1980 with slr's and dslr's and med format. I have a very hard time recommending something like a 35mm f1.8 to anyone new especially if they don't even know where their going yet. I don't recommend very slow aperture variable zooms either. Matter of fact I don't recommend slow anything over a flash to anyone but a seasoned pro and that guy probably doesn't need advice! Certainly not mine!

 

[LastingImpressions63]

OK, thanks for the quick response. Let me explained why I asked what I did and what your answers told me.

1. An iPhone is a remarkably good camera--even an old one--because it's almost always available. And the best camera is the one you have handy. That said, an iPhone isn't very good for low-light photography, composing the picture (by changing depth of field, zooming in), long distance wildlife photography.

2. Not on IG--that's actually good. People who live on IG tend to find their phone ends up being their best camera (because it's so easy to shift phone photos to your IG account). Since you've got an iPhone, I bet you have either an iPad or a Mac computer or laptop. That means you have Photos--which is a decide program for both basic edits and also storage of your photos.

3. Keep it under $1,000. A bridge camera is a good possibility here. The pros of a bridge camera--you can get a decent one for under $1,000. If you get the right one, the zoom lens will be long enough to shoot some wildlife. Plus, it's all in one--the lens is usually part of the camera.

The cons of most bridge cameras is that they're bridge cameras. You can't put on a better lens (and most superzoom lens will be fuzzy at each end and not especially sharp overall). If you wanted to shoot Bald Eagles, you can't put put on a 300 or 400mm lens. If you want to shoot your niece playing indoor basketball in bad light you can't swap out the lens for one that is better in low light. If you want to shoot some trick photography (like water droplets) you can't put on a lens with a faster shutter speed capability. It's definitely a step above a point and shoot--it's absolutely a "bridge" that will allow you to take better pictures. But it will have a lot of limits. And when you upgrade (and you will--once you decide what you want to shoot), your bridge won't be useful for you. If you buy a Nikon DSLR and later go Nikon mirrorless, you can use your Nikon DSLR lens (with an adapter) on your Nikon mirrorless.

So to me (and this is just my perspective), a bridge camera isn't so much about you getting substantially better pictures (you will get better pictures than with your phone). A bridge camera will help you learn some of the stuff that you'll need to know for the next camera you buy (shutter speed, aperture, white balance, etc.). Given that, you may decide a bridge camera is perfect for you. Or you may decide to get a used DSLR with more capability. Only you can decide what is the best fit for you.

Good luck!

You are correct, I have a Thinkpad.
Good to know to keep it under $1,000. I didn't want to go crazy ...... yet but I didn't want to go cheap either. Makes sense to start under $1,000 until I get my feet wet & will know better the direction I want to go in from there.

Thanks again!!!

 

[LastingImpressions63]

Look at lightly used discontinued Nikon DX DSLRs like the D5600 and a used 35/1.8G. KEH does this kit for around $500-600. It's the 2024 digital version of the classic mid-range "starter" film SLR+50/1.8 kit that sold in the millions for decades. Learn the ropes with it. Move on to other lenses when/if you need them. Sell it if you find photography boring/overwhelming. Consider the cost as "tuition." Move ahead or drop out. That's up to you.

I agree & appreciate the confirmation of lightly used while learning the ropes.

Thank you!!!

 

[LastingImpressions63]

I'll mention a couple points that's been skipped over.

Ergonomics - if you're one of the lucky few with a camera store nearby great, if not try the limited selections at big box stores like Best Buy, Wally World, etc. Not all camera bodies are created equally - size, weight, layout - go somewhere you can actually pick up and hold one.

Weather Proofing - You mentioned hiking, outdoor photography. Not all cameras are equal when it comes to preventing moisture intrusion.

Great point! I agree if possible to go somewhere you can pick up and hold one to get a feel. Yes, I love to hike & plan on taking what I invest in (hopefully) on a 3 to 5 day hike in addition to the day hikes.

 

[cgw]

Shot in the dark h


Shot in the dark huh? I'm not all that good and don't understand a lot of this stuff but I've been shooting since about 1980 with slr's and dslr's and med format. I have a very hard time recommending something like a 35mm f1.8 to anyone new especially if they don't even know where their going yet. I don't recommend very slow aperture variable zooms either. Matter of fact I don't recommend slow anything over a flash to anyone but a seasoned pro and that guy probably doesn't need advice! Certainly not mine!

Seems you don't understand that a DX Nikon 35/1.8g has an effective focal length of 50mm on a Nikon DX camera. Surely sometime you shot a 50mm "normal" lens on a film camera?
Appears you're also recommending slow variable aperture zooms.