Canon 50D Help.

Erin Kathleen · Jul 11, 2009

Hello Everyone.

I've asked this question before to some, and most are very cruel people who will not help me no matter what. So I came here. If I could get an answer from someone who knows my camera, the 50D, I would love it!

I've been into photography for almost four years now. I have ideas, I know the basics, etc. However, as far as an SLR goes, I'm still quite the beginner. I have a Canon EOS 50D, and I would like to know how to get this kind of picture with it:

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m66/KadajsFunToy/Love_us_by_6Artificial6.jpg

This person has a 40D camera, the same 50mm 1.4 lens that I have. Actually, he is what inspired me to get the 50D.
This picture was taken at 1/99 second
F stop 2.8
ISO: 160

I was told that perhaps he uses an auto setting on his 40D (like the AV, TV or P setting), which is why his shutter speed is a strange number. Well, I tried using those settings and this is what I got:

That image is kind of blurry, but overall you can see what I'm talking about. The overall quality is different. You can see how his is more professional looking, even though minor editing is placed on his photo, and he has the same equipment as I do.

I'm getting extremely frustrated with this, and I just don't know what to do. I have so many ideas, but I can't put them into my camera until I figure out how to make the photos look like his, professional, crisp, mature.

Please, help would be very much appreciated!

KmH · Jul 11, 2009

He was further from his subjects than you were.

The subject to lens distance effects the depth of field (DOF) particularly when it is so shallow from a large aperture of f/2.8.

His subjects are much closer to being in a single plane parallel to the image sensor and better fit into the shallow DOF.

In your image the top of your subjects head is much closer to the lens than his chin. The top of his head is sticking out the front of the DOF. Of course, the quality of the light is also different. The first look to be made in studio and yours looks to be made with available light outdoors.

Actually, your camera has little to do with the problem.

I'm sorry if the truth seems cruel to you, but that's the reality.

You can find an online Depth of Field Calculator here.

Erin Kathleen · Jul 11, 2009

Oh no, it's not cruel at all. Actually, that was probably a really bad example of a picture to use. No matter where I'm standing, my pictures look like less quality than what I would like.

My pictures are always crisp, but they just don't look like..that...it's very hard to explain. It's something I've struggled with for the entirety of these few years.

JFew · Jul 15, 2009

"I'm sorry if the truth seems cruel to you, but that's the reality."

No, that's not cruel, but the way it was said is. That level of sardonicism is uncalled for. There's no reason to be a jerk to somebody that just wants to learn.

Erin - just between the two shots you posted, a plethora of things are different. First, his appears to be shot in a studio with controlled lighting. Second, the models appear to have make-up on. Third, there's a linear background color in the image, which is far less distracting to the eye. Fourth, his color settings are flat...yours are more realistic.

Erin Kathleen · Jul 16, 2009

hmm...That makes a lot of sense. With the make up and what not...but more or less, I definitely think it's the color settings. You're absolutely right. Is there a way to do that on the 50D? I read the manual and it doesn't really help at all haahaah.

Thanks for your help.

Big Mike · Jul 16, 2009

The big difference is lighting. The camera (model) doesn't really matter all that much.

christm · Jul 16, 2009

I also have a 50D, as the others have said its lighting that is different in the two photos. Your photo of the bloke is very 'casual' even if it is posed, the 2 girls shot is very professional and studio like - infact I believe it is shot in a studio.

If your looking for the same kind of look that the photo with the 2 girls had, try using an external flash or even more than one - even a neutral light - desk light ?

Practice makes perfect. Don't give up.

RThomas · Jul 17, 2009

Can you work around the limitations of outdoor lighting by putting out white sheets or something on the ground (out of frame) to help get the 'studio style' look the example photo had via reflected light?

Erin Kathleen · Jul 18, 2009

Ooh wow...amazing suggestions. Thanks so much, guys.

Sachphotography · Jul 18, 2009

The type shot you are looking for is Called High Key. The shot you posted was shot on a white backdrop with most likely a 4 light setup with reflector. His shot was taken with an abundant supply of light which creates the whitening effect. A high key shot is the style most studio photographers shoot though each individual style is different respectively to each photographer. Research "High Key Photography" and you should be able tpo learn what it takes to develop that particular look and feel.
Hope this help. PM me with any questions.

Daniel

Erin Kathleen · Jul 20, 2009

Ah!! Thank you so much!

benhasajeep · Jul 20, 2009

Try Strobist.com . Start with lighting 101 and work your way through their lessons. It's a very informative site for beginners. It is based on using flashes. But the principles and use are the same with studio lights. Very good site. Give it a look.

UUilliam · Jul 21, 2009

1. Try use an aperture of around f3 - f16 (that is where this len's quality is at its sharpest)

2. Shutter speed doesn't have much effect on the quality of sharpness (with the exception of quicker shutter = less blur)

3. Use Aperture Priority it is much more useful for most types of image's the only time you should use Shutter priority is if you depend on a certain speed otherwise you should stick to aperture priority

4. there is more than "a little editing" done to his image, he has cleaned up the skin and applied unsharp mask thus making the image sharper

5. there is FAR TOO MANY different aspects which will change the way your image will come out...
the best thing to do is experiment.. you made a mistake spending so much on a camera tbh... a 50D is aimed towards Semi PRO photographers who know what they are doing with a camera, you should have come with a starter camera (canon 350D - Canon 450D - Canon 1000D)
but hey.. atleast you wont need to upgrade any time soon, the camera should last you.

Also as previously stated that guy has used studio lights, have you ever looked at a Histogram? an ideal Histogram will be mainly towards the right (for studio work) this is called High KEY which also reduces the amount of noise in your image (Signal to noise ratio)

read this to understand your histogram a little more Understanding Digital Camera Histograms: Tones and Contrast
also read up on how to use a camera and what each function is for etc.. and understand how the camera works, it will help your images allot more
read the tutorials on this link Cambridge in Colour - Digital Photography Tutorials & Gallery

Big · Jul 21, 2009

UUilliam said:
1. Try use an aperture of around f3 - f16 (that is where this len's quality is at its sharpest)

2. Shutter speed doesn't have much effect on the quality of sharpness (with the exception of quicker shutter = less blur)

3. Use Aperture Priority it is much more useful for most types of image's the only time you should use Shutter priority is if you depend on a certain speed otherwise you should stick to aperture priority

4. there is more than "a little editing" done to his image, he has cleaned up the skin and applied unsharp mask thus making the image sharper

5. there is FAR TOO MANY different aspects which will change the way your image will come out...
the best thing to do is experiment.. you made a mistake spending so much on a camera tbh... a 50D is aimed towards Semi PRO photographers who know what they are doing with a camera, you should have come with a starter camera (canon 350D - Canon 450D - Canon 1000D)
but hey.. atleast you wont need to upgrade any time soon, the camera should last you.

Also as previously stated that guy has used studio lights, have you ever looked at a Histogram? an ideal Histogram will be mainly towards the right (for studio work) this is called High KEY which also reduces the amount of noise in your image

read this to understand your histogram a little more Understanding Digital Camera Histograms: Tones and Contrast
also read up on how to use a camera and what each function is for etc.. and understand how the camera works, it will help your images allot more
read the tutorials on this link Cambridge in Colour - Digital Photography Tutorials & Gallery

Damn...(a 16 year old!?) how you in college already?

UUilliam · Jul 21, 2009

Damn...(a 16 year old!?) how you in college already?

I guess that means my Suggestion was wrong??
I just say what I "Think" I know already thats why i usually always print at the end of any of my "advice."
"Maybe someone with more experience can correct me if I'm wrong."

I have had complaints about giving bad advice but it's like an OCD :greenpbl: