Can't get clear movement shots!

[jake337]

Remember, you may want to have a small amount of motion blur to convey motion. Every subject is different. For instance,b with people walking/running you may want to find the sweet spot SS that always a crisp body but leaves some motion in the feet/legs and/or arms/hands.

 

[CourtSC]

Post a sample image, with EXIF.

this.

Try this?

 

[CourtSC]

Here's another

 

[nzmacro]

awww that last one is at 1/100 at ISO 100. Try ISO 800 and boost that shutter speed up, see how that goes.

About VR, have a read with a coffee.

Nikon VR explained

One of the guy's I shoot with using a Canon 1Dx and 500mm always has OIS off when using faster shutter speeds. Steve says he can see a difference. In fact all those I shoot with (mainly Canon) turn OIS off.

An interesting discussion here and not everyone does turn it off, but its an interesting one.

Turn IS off at high shutter speeds?

Now I don't own any AF OIS / VR lenses, so I'm only going by what I read. So again, everyone is different, but it cost nothing to try it anyway, but only at the higher shutter speeds.

All the best.

Danny.

 

[Overread17 5]

IS/VR off at fast shutter speeds oft comes from people who are shooting fast shots; as a result when they go to take the shot they've got:

1) A shutter speed already fast enough to eliminate handshake blur

2) A situation unfolding so fast that they'll be pointing and shooting within seconds. This means that their IS/VR won't have time to spin up - detect and set its counter motions and as a result can actually create its own blur.

AS you can see if you were holding the shutter half down for a period of time before the shot it taken its not a worry; but if you're not then it is a concern.


1/100sec is far too slow - 1/500sec at the very least is what you want. Note that with wildlife I'd treat ISO 400 as you base ISO to start with.

 

[KmH]

In the first one the wing tips were moving faster than the rest of the bird, so you needed a faster shutter speed to stop the wing tips.

In #2 1/100 was also insufficient shutter speed.

A 28-300 lens has a superzoom - 10x+ zoom range and superzoom lenses usually have focus sharpness issues because of all the design compromises need to achieve a 10x+ zoom range.

 

[CourtSC]

Well today I couldn't get ANYTHING in focus! Not one thing!!! Even if it wasn't moving! lol

 

[TCampbell]

In your first post you mentioned you were using aperture priority and I'm wondering why you choose to use aperture priority.

When approaching any given shot... think about what sort of shooting constraints you have and this should suggest to you when it's best to use shutter priority vs aperture priority.

When shooting action and the goal is to freeze action then consider using shutter speed priority and set an adequate shutter speed. (e.g. 1/1000th or faster). When you meter the shot, the camera may warn you that the lens aperture required cannot be achieved using your lens (e.g. if it wants to use f/2.8 but your lens won't go below f/5.6 when zoomed in) but that would serve as a hint that you'll either need to crank up the ISO sensitive (causing more noise) or you'll need a faster lens. You could revert to aperture priority, set the highest ISO you can stand, set the f-stop to whatever wide-open is for that lens & focal length, and then take whatever shutter speed it's giving you -- but you'd know it's not _really_ the shutter speed you want... it's what you have to settle for.

In boiling it down: If shutter speed is the all-critical thing that makes or breaks the shot... then use shutter speed priority.

If shutter speed isn't important... but perhaps depth of field is... then use aperture priority.