Can't get clear movement shots!

[CourtSC]

:banghead:

I can't seem to get any clear pictures of moving objects (mostly birds and my dogs). I typically shoot in Aperture priority. I have played around a bit with adjusting ISO in that setting to increase/decrease shutter speed, but always end up with pictures that are too dark.

Soooooo.....should I be shooting in Shutter priority?? And as I decrease the shutter speed, what do I need to adjust to keep a decent amount of light? I swear 50% of my pictures end up as just black or white blobs...can't seem to find the middle ground!

I have a Nikon D7100 and shoot with my 28-300 most often.

 

[tirediron]

What shutter-speed are you typically realizing when you're shooting in AP? For this sort of application, I would suggest shooting in shutter-priority and using 1/500th as a minimum. Set your ISO as required to acheive this, or consider using Auto-ISO.

 

[480sparky]

Post a sample image, with EXIF.

 

[JacaRanda]

If you increase your shutter speed, you would have to increase your iso or open your aperture (lower f number i.e. 5.6 is lower than 7.1).


Wow, you guys are quick!

 

[TheNevadanStig]

If its blurry because of the movement, that's all about shutter speed.
When I do birds in flight, I typically shoot in the 1/1000-1/1600 speeds. Seems to give me the best results that I am happy with. sometimes I can get down to about 1/800, but depending on the bird and if its actually flapping it's wings I sometimes get blurred wing tips going down that low. I usually try to set the aperture at what gives me the sharpest image when doing birds, usually around f/8 light allowing. Then adjust ISO to get the meter close to dead center.
Dog action shots I don't have much experience. Generally speaking a dog would be moving slower, so you could get away with slower shutter speeds. And you can get closer, so you can open up the aperture a bit.

The best way I have found of learning to shoot certain things is to pay attention to the info section of pictures you like on flickr. It will give you a good idea of where to start if you are going for something similar.

Heres a few examples of my shots of birds in flight and running dogs:

146 by TheNevadanStig, on Flickr

animals 049 by TheNevadanStig, on Flickr

 

[KmH]

I would suggest that you will need an even faster shutter speed, say 1/1000 or even faster if your dogs are really active.

Are you shooting outside in daylight, inside your home or both? Inside will put greater demands on how much light is available.

I used Aperture priority and auto ISO when I shot action sports, but I kept a very close eye in the viewfinder on the shutter speed and outside the viewfinder on how much light I had to work with. If it get rally cloudy I usually put ISO back in my manual control.

Post some example photos in the:

General Gallery
A gallery for sharing photos and getting feedback, including general critique.

 

[lambertpix]

As others have pointed out, it's likely you need a faster shutter speed.

Re: aperture-priority vs. shutter-priority, this is really your preference, but you might very well find shutter-priority easier. In either of those modes, you're controlling one of the exposure variables and letting the camera adjust one (or more) of the others to obtain the exposure the camera thinks is correct, based on in-camera metering.

I know that's a mouthful, but the idea is that aperture, shutter speed, and ISO combine to produce the exposure you're getting, and as one of these changes, one or more of the other settings has to change in order to maintain the same exposure. If you haven't seen this simulator before, it's actually a pretty decent way to visualize the relationship between aperture and shutter:

Play | Canon Explains Exposure

When operating in Av or Tv, by the way, that simulator appears to use auto-ISO, which is something you might want to look at as well. I haven't used auto-ISO on a Nikon, but as near as I can see from the following, it works pretty similarly -- in essence, it'll increase ISO only when it needs to in order to maintain the desired exposure.

http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Learn-And-Explore/Article/h7ruii10/understanding-auto-iso.html

Now, back to your personal preference -- you can quite literally obtain the same exposure in aperture-priority mode, shutter-priority mode or manual mode. Your preference determines whether you find it easier to set one of those variables deliberately and let the others "float" or whether you want to set all of them yourself.

To look at these modes another way, in shutter-priority mode, you're declaring that shutter speed is the most important setting for you right now, and you want to control that yourself. In return, you acknowledge that you're giving up control over aperture (and correspondingly, DOF), and maybe ISO. In aperture-priority, you're controlling aperture and letting shutter speed vary. Regardless of which mode you're in, it's probably good to get into the habit of glancing at any values the camera is setting for you to be sure you're happy with those settings, or if you need to step in and "help" a bit.

 

[SCraig]

Watch your shutter speed, pan with the subject. Both equally important, neither can be ignored.

 

[xzyragon]

If your subject is moving fast but not moving itself, you can pan and have a little lower shutter speed which gives you motion blur. You have to be dead on with the pan though.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

[glun]

I'd suggest shooting in shutter priority mode or even pan with your object. But looks like everyone else already said it

 

[nzmacro]

Yes, try shutter priority for sure. I generally use my lenses wide open to help get higher shutter speeds while still trying to keep a lowish ISO. There is a lot of if's and but's and we all shoot differently. For BIF's my std is 1/2000 - 1/4000 at ISO 200 - ISO 400 and my main birding lens is wide open at F/4.5. That does require decent sunlight though. Try and shoot with the sun at your back and see how shutter priority works for you. We do however all use different gear, so there is not strict rule and everyone has different ideas.

BTW, do you have OIS or VR on or off with your shots if you get to higher shutter speeds now and again. ??

All the best.

Danny.

 

[CourtSC]

Thanks for all the tips!!! Hopefully I'll get a chance to try this all out today! I have had trouble posting pics with the EXIF data....not ignoring your request, just have no clue! I am usually shooting with VR on.
Y'all have been so patient to help explain to a beginner! I feel like my questions should be things that I know, but I just get so frustrated and can't seem to make things work! The advice I get here is always clear and so helpful! Thanks!!!!

 

[Overread]

VR only affects your motion and the cameras; the handshake of holding it. It has no effect on blur of the subjects that are moving. Ideally you want to think about 1/500sec as the slowest speed for action and any faster is better.

 

[astroNikon]

just a few setup items you may want to turn on
You have a Nikon d7100 (I have a d7000 so your may be slightly different)

in the menus, go to the "Playback" menu
"Display" mode
select: Focus Point, Highlights, RGB Histogram, Data
then select OK

The LCD Display screen is always useful to review on photos. You can see your shutter speed, aperture, ISO settings etc on that, and see how you took the photo with the above options. Then it's a matter of just adjusting things .. and for this you are looking for a higher shutter speed (which you will have to increase ISO and/or aperture).

the EXIF data will be integrated into your photo

Also, learn to use the Exposure Indicator in your viewfinder - read about it in the manual. (not related to the actual shutter speed, but something good to learn)


this is good reading too for the d7000/d7100
http://www.everythingd7000.co.uk/

 

[Braineack]

Post a sample image, with EXIF.

this.