Can't get clear shot when subject is moving.

[nslohoda]

I am somewhat new to this. I have a Canon Rebel xsi with a 18-55mm & 50mm 1.8 lenses. I almost always shoot in manual with the auto focus on. I am having a hard time capturing the moment when the subject is moving. If they are completely still the photo comes out amazing. How do I get the photos to not be blurry when they are moving.

The first pic came out great, a lil blur in his hand but not too noticeable.... the second, you can see his hand is very blurry. and the third is very blurry. how can I prevent that so all my pics are clear especially if they are moving.

Thank you in advance......

 

[Dave Devoid]

Im a noob myself, but i would suggest increasing shutter speed

 

[sactown024]

Increase shutter speed and use a flash. If you have a speedlite, bounce the light off the ceiling. That room does not look well lit so I assume you used a high ISO and low shutter speed. You can also use a tripod to prevent hand shaking.

 

[SCraig]

You are never going to stop movement at a/15 or 1/25 second shutter speed. It isn't going to happen. Try about 10 times faster and you might start getting close because to even begin to stop motion, you need a minimum of about 1/250 second, and even that depends on the definition of "Motion".

My suggestion, if you are new to photography, would be to stop trying to use manual until you understand how things work, and allow your camera to do the work for you. Look at the settings it chose and learn to understand WHY it chose those settings as opposed to the ones that you would have chosen. I would also recommend that you learn to use a flash indoors. That is what they are for and they can do wonders for your photographs when used properly.

 

[cgipson1]

Yes on the Flash! Best way to shoot indoors when there is not enough ambient light. It will also give you better color and skin tones (these are not good!).

A tripod will help if you insist on using no flash, but any movement on the subject's part will be obvious. Or you can raise ISO higher, and deal with the resultant noise.

 

[KmH]

If you bounce the flash off the ceiling, there are several factors you'll need to consider:

1. Use a bounce card to throw some light straight forward. Many flash units have a bounce card built in. Light coming down from almost directly overhead can't get into peoples eye sockets making their eye sockets dark (raccoon eyes). In other words, using a bounce card provides 'fill light'.

2. Bounced flash can acquire a color cast from the surface the light is bounced off of.

3. Whatever surface the flash is bounced off of is going to absorb/scatter some amount of light depending on the surface covering and texture.

4. When using flash we have to be mindful of the Inverse Square Law. Light power diminishes with distance as a square function. In other words if you double the distance the light has to travel to get to your subject, the light only has 1/4 as much power by the time it gets to the subject. Bouncing flash essentially doubles the distance the light travels (up and then down) when compared to pointing the flash straight at the subject.